Anybody using r152a

chris142

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I read about the computer duster refrigerant. So I threw caution to the wind and put it in my truck.

So far its ice cold. Low side pressures are a bit low so I may go back to the blue orifice tube.

Did a fire test by spraying it at a pilot light at work and it put the fire out! So imo there isnt a fire hazard when using it.

Thoughts?
 

shawn deere

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Love the safty test. Lol.
How cold is ice cold? Actually 32*??
Is is pricy?
Thats it for my thoughts:cheers:
 

chris142

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Cold enough to keep me comfy on a 105f day. Definatly better and a faster cool down than r134a was.

Cost about $4 a can and I used 3.5 cans or so.
 

laserjock

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I've read about this a little. The difference is the number of fluorine atoms on the ethane (2 for 152a vs 4 for 134a). Shouldn't be a real compatibility issue as far as orings or oil is concerned. The only real downside I see is if you have to have the AC serviced, a non-standard refrigerant might be an issue for a shop. That and you'll have to have a can tap that pokes through the side if you are using keyboard duster cans.
 

chris142

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[QUOTE="laserjock, post: 95684. The only real downside I see is if you have to have the AC serviced, a non-standard refrigerant might be an issue for a shop. That and you'll have to have a can tap that pokes through the side if you are using keyboard duster cans.[/QUOTE]
I am the lead tech at an ac shop :)
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Let me know how it works. I was going to do it but ended up converting to isobutane/ propane mix. My vent temps get below freezing. Can you take a vent temp reading next time your on the freeway?
 

Sidewinded_idi

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I don't need it as cold as the propane mix but like to see what it does as it's a little safer to use
 

Thatoneguy

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I'm also interested in the vent temps. I currently am planning on sidewinded_idi's setup for my truck but if this works well and doesn't literally FREEZE then I'll go with this.
 

laserjock

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[QUOTE="laserjock, post: 95684. The only real downside I see is if you have to have the AC serviced, a non-standard refrigerant might be an issue for a shop. That and you'll have to have a can tap that pokes through the side if you are using keyboard duster cans.
I am the lead tech at an ac shop :)[/QUOTE]
I was pretty sure you were but to folks reading this that don't understand the possible ramifications, I thought it should be pointed out.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I enjoy hearing about all of the different exotic refrigerants used, but since my (lack of) knowledge on A/C systems is limited, I think I'll stick with R134 or even R12 when I redo my system next year. Yes I'm going to play it safe. I can say that in 2012, the R134 in my Bronco, did at least keep my hands and chest cold (air only came out dash vents) at 109 degrees down the highway. I think it would have cooled much better if it didn't have such a big volume to cool.
 

Thatoneguy

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I enjoy hearing about all of the different exotic refrigerants used, but since my (lack of) knowledge on A/C systems is limited, I think I'll stick with R134 or even R12 when I redo my system next year. Yes I'm going to play it safe. I can say that in 2012, the R134 in my Bronco, did at least keep my hands and chest cold (air only came out dash vents) at 109 degrees down the highway. I think it would have cooled much better if it didn't have such a big volume to cool.

Just do a little reading and you'll find that AC systems are actually pretty simple. On one of my other trucks I ended up redoing the entire AC system 100% because at the time I lived in Yuma, AZ and it gets HOT HOT HOT there. Lots of Google time and some advice from friends later and I got it done!
 

CDX825

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Ive posted about it before as Im sure you know. I did the R152a in my 92 F150 and its cold! Been going strong for a couple years now.

I just helped my buddy do his 86 IDI and instead of using the blue orifice we used the red one. His runs way colder than mine with the blue tube.
 

laserjock

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If I have my thermodynamics right, the 152 should run colder. It has a lower boiling/vaporization temp so when it goes from liquid to gas it should require more energy and that energy due to expansion is what causes the cooling. The orifice tube just sets the rate the liquid converts to gas. I would expect the red tube to work well since it's designed for 134 and the two compounds are pretty similar.
 

Thatoneguy

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Does anybody have a link to the kind of can tap one would use for the normal cans you can buy in stores?
 
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