'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
x2 on the real temp gauge.
the alluminum rads are awsome.
the alluminum rads are awsome.
Aluminum Radiators On the Cheap...
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
I have one mounted in the overtemp spot.....not it's electrical but it will nail 240*/260* on some long pulls where im at 55mph turning 2500rpm with 10lbs of boost, and 1000 egt......
The truck cools down quicker than it used to, which makes me believe that the fan works as it should. But it seems that once it starts to heat up, it just climbs quick on the hills.
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
Just a separate thought, I frequent PSN a lot and you don't hear too many of the powerstroke guys having issue with over heating....what gives?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
NOT good!
Sounds like your rad is bad. does the fan clutch engage when it needs to?
Another thought: your rad might be just fine and your t-stat might be stuck closed.
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
its a brand new t stat....like 3 months old
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
At anything over 230 - 240 degrees you are ASKING for cracked heads, blown gaskets, or any number of overheating problems.
The reason for the overheating (or at least the high temperature readings) is due to the heads on an IDI holding a LOT of heat. The combustion process starts in the head and makes it's way down into the cylinder. Indirect injection at it's finest! Couple that with the temperature senders being near exhaust ports in the heads and you have a perfect storm as it were for higher temperature readings.
A the PSD's, Cummins and Duramaxes are all DIRECT injection engines. Although there is some heat in the head, 90% of the heat is in the block of a direct injection engine.
I am willing to bet the 6.2's had the same issues.
The reason for the overheating (or at least the high temperature readings) is due to the heads on an IDI holding a LOT of heat. The combustion process starts in the head and makes it's way down into the cylinder. Indirect injection at it's finest! Couple that with the temperature senders being near exhaust ports in the heads and you have a perfect storm as it were for higher temperature readings.
A the PSD's, Cummins and Duramaxes are all DIRECT injection engines. Although there is some heat in the head, 90% of the heat is in the block of a direct injection engine.
I am willing to bet the 6.2's had the same issues.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
mine has done this since day one.
i have a mechanical gauge and when running empty its fine, but when i got a trailer hooked behind the truck with my samurai on it. (Maybe 5,000# total trailer and zuk) going up hills it will heat up very quickly.
i got a new brass rad from carquest, new t-stat (motorcraft), new waterpump, and the fan is mechanically locked solid so its on all the time and i can easily hit 230*-240* about the time i start seeing 220* i will baby it and drop gears and slow down but eventually it will creep and i have had to pull over once or twice to let it cool down.
my normal route i see this is going to the offroad park. once I'm off the exit and sitting at the stop sign the temp will creep up another 10* then peak for half a second and start coming down.
i have a mechanical gauge and when running empty its fine, but when i got a trailer hooked behind the truck with my samurai on it. (Maybe 5,000# total trailer and zuk) going up hills it will heat up very quickly.
i got a new brass rad from carquest, new t-stat (motorcraft), new waterpump, and the fan is mechanically locked solid so its on all the time and i can easily hit 230*-240* about the time i start seeing 220* i will baby it and drop gears and slow down but eventually it will creep and i have had to pull over once or twice to let it cool down.
my normal route i see this is going to the offroad park. once I'm off the exit and sitting at the stop sign the temp will creep up another 10* then peak for half a second and start coming down.
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
FWIW.. One of the reasons Low Silicate Coolant is specified for Diesel trucks is to reduce the chances of Cavitation. Small particles of Silicates dramaticlly increase the wear when Air Bubbles Implode against the Cyl wall.
If Al rads NEED Silicates to protect them, I'd ask Myself what is more important. Protecting a $300 radiator, or a $1500 engine.
If Al rads NEED Silicates to protect them, I'd ask Myself what is more important. Protecting a $300 radiator, or a $1500 engine.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
In this case you have to find a coolant that will protect against cavitation with the low sillicate but also has another additive that protects the alluminum rad and heater core. i got Zerex G05 when i recently did my cooling system. i have heard that the fleetcharge that most on here run also protects the alluminum rads.
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
OK! I got a case of purple concentrated coolant for ZERO dollars. my boss bought 2 cases of purple coolant and now can't use it in teh older 855 cummins. I got a case for free. Will this be a good bedfellow with my cat coolant?
If I use the purple coolant to fill the system entirely, then use the cat as a top up will it hurt anything?
If I use the purple coolant to fill the system entirely, then use the cat as a top up will it hurt anything?
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
So do you suggest getting a mech gauge and putting it in the factory spot? I m almost ready to just buy an alum one and do a complete flush and be done.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
Yes. i put my gauge in the head near the back of the engine on the drivers side. there is a square pipe plug that you need to take out and then put your probe into that hole.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
here is my gauge...
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50860&page=2
scroll down until you find my post with pics.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50860&page=2
scroll down until you find my post with pics.
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
I got my gauge in the water pump. This way I know what the temperature of the water coming into the water pump is. The overtemp switch is in the head if all hell breaks loose and my idiot gauge indicator still works as per factory specs.
If one REALLY wanted to, you could run a probe int eh factory location giving you cylinder head temperature, and one in the water pump giving you coolant temperature outside of the head....make sense?
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
yeh I was just curious if there would be a better plug for them, or just use the factory location.
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