Agree with me that this is a stuck injector.

[steamtownwelde]

Story time.
Today was my son's 13th birthday and he wanted to go out and about for a 'guys day'

drove all over town, had a nice steak lunch bombed up the interstate for 30 or so miles, drove up and down some nasty access roads to go shooting (darn kid can just about out shoot his old man already!) All in all did just about every kind of driving a truck can do.

On the way down the mountain I started hearing a loud tick, didn't sound like a lifter. I'm no diesel expert and certainly no idi guru but I know enough to be dangerous. I labeled it an injector noise and decided it could wait until I dropped the boy off with she who shall not be named and I'd take a better listen. I dropped him off and stopped at a parts store, tick was there and noticeable. I bought a jug of lucas trans fix to help nurse along my ailing e4od until I Can get the new one in. Pulling out of the parts store lot the truck was dumping whitish/bluish smoke out the exhaust and missing. I pulled into another lot and she was shaking pretty good at idle, in gear or neutral had no effect,ok I didn't kill the trans somehow with the lucas ;p Truck never smoked before this unless I was really pushing it.

Between the tick earlier and the symptoms now I'm assuming it HAS to be a stuck injector. Injector line to cylinder #5 was noticeably hotter than the rest. It wasn't brand your skin hot but substantially hotter for sure. I pulled out of the lot blowing smoke and got on it hard and it would intermittently clear up then run crappy again. By the time I got home (30 miles ) it was back to running rough and smoking like crazy.

I bought the truck around 6000 miles ago and one of the first things I did was a new fuel filter full of atf. The truck has 235,000 miles and it looks like the injectors and pump were never touched. The truck is stock as can be and not a wrench mark in sight.


Will doing the ATF again and letting it sit overnight be a worthwhile investment or should I not toss a new motorcraft filter and just go for new injectors?

Since it looks like I'll be doing injectors I should probably do the return lines at the same time yes?



I love the truck, those 6000 miles I put on it were since april so I drive it ALOT. I'm not afraid to spend money as I plan on keeping the truck for as long as it'll still roll but one thing I hate is wasting time and money.

Soooooooo am I on the right path here guys?

Edit: I know I'm on borrowed time with the pump and am probably missing out on some mpg and performance with this one but it isn't in the budget right now unless it's the culprit and I don't think it is.
Also both of the tanks have broken showerheads, can't use below 1/4 tank in either of them. Perhaps my rough riding up and down the mountain stirred up some gunk from the bottom of the tanks.

 

[towcat]

hot injector line= compression gasses blowing back through. correct immediately with replacement injector or you will lose a pump.

 

[typ4]

Tax money generating price on the last 2 sets of bb codes . gotta liquidate stuff . pm me if interested. Or if you can only afford one I have a broken set.


oh and the filter will catch most of the gunk in the tank, so likely not the issue, but definately a sticking injector.




Towcat, you get a long skinny box yet?

 

[icanfixall]

I agree completely with whats posted above. If anyone knows these two guys do. The cheap easy fix is one injecter but.. Surely your way overdue for a complete set of injecters and pump. Then time the engine. I rent timing meters so thats the least of your issues right now. Please don't buy from any ebay seller till you read the Hall of shame forum above. There is some cheapass hustlers out there that will rip you off telling you they have the best for the least cost. They actually do sell the cheapest but its crap. Stay away from the creep in tenn. Hes in the shame forum for plenty of reasons. Even tried to sue this forum because some of his customers were speaking out at the horrible deals they got. Typ4 or Mel at Conestoga are your safest bets for quality parts with so much help it will make you feel you need to pay more for it. They are a truely honest couple of bisiness guys thats long gone these days. Please do the return lines too. When the injecters are installed they need 35 lbs of torque to be tightened correctly. If you decide to replace the pump look for my viedo of how to do it. No way should you attemp that job without asking how. Thats gear cover the pump bolts to is never to be removed. If the cover and pump come off as one piece the gear is attached and the gear timing is lost. Then your in for a real mess trying to fix it. We have several simple directions of how to remove the pump with the hard lines still on it. Its not hard either. A 9/16 and a 5/8 inch box wrench is about all you need. The injection pump drive bolts are a special 12 point 5/16 socket hex. They are found under the diamond cover on the front of the injection pump gear cover.

 

[towcat]

Towcat, you get a long skinny box yet?

yes. thanks!

 

[steamtownwelde]

Thanks for all the help guys! I am in contact with typ4 for a set of injectors and a return kit, I can't see replacing just one. It makes alot of sense to do the pump now too since I know it needs it BUT it would lay waste to my budget now AND I would like to turbo the truck in the future to help out with pulling the excavator. Maybe my current pump will hold on until turbo time and I can put a moose under the hood.

 

[typ4]

yes. thanks!

TORQUE BABY! and with this turbo your are gonna need drive tires every few thousand miles,

 

[towcat]

TORQUE BABY! and with this turbo your are gonna need drive tires every few thousand miles,

looking forward to having to add traction bars
if i can ignite a set of duals, you will bet I am doing a vid of this!

 

[RLDSL]

Trying to clean those injectors would basically be a waste. acting that bad about the only thing that would do any good would be about 4 cans of Diesel Purge, and quite honestly I really just sat back and put a pencil to that. I'm used to running that treatment on a set of Bosch Injectors on european diesels that cost close to $400 just to get them rebuilt( forget about buying new$$$ ) That diesel purge would run about $40 plus about $15 to ship just to *try* to clean them, now on the better quality injectors that usually go 3-500k miles, thats not a bad investment, but in these stanadyne types..... you are far better off just trashing the turds and getting a new set with that mileage.

 

[chris142]

I carry a new one from the auto parts store as an emergency backup and a wrench to remove and install it.

 

[riotwarrior]

I was gonna suggest diesel purge for an attempt at fixing it. If you can find it locally then I"d do it with at least three cans.

I've got a couple of vids of it and how to. If you are interested just search out TECH 101 DIESEL PURGE in advanced search and my user name, you'll find the thread.

If not go n do the full on replacement with new return line kit and be happy!

Don't forget you will likely want to time the truck once you re n re the injectors.

Al

 

[steamtownwelde]

I'm going with 8 new bb injectors and a return kit. I know there are a few other guys around here with idi's and at least one or two of them are on the forum also. maybe they will want to get together on the timing meter rental.

 

[mobilemech]

Russ did you get my PM about these injectors?

Tax money generating price on the last 2 sets of bb codes . gotta liquidate stuff . pm me if interested. Or if you can only afford one I have a broken set.


oh and the filter will catch most of the gunk in the tank, so likely not the issue, but definately a sticking injector.



Towcat, you get a long skinny box yet?

 

[steamtownwelde]

So pulled the air cleaner today and its very audibly popping through the intake. Bad news...

 

[gatorman21218]

If you loosen that injection line that is hot does the popping noise stop? This is what a bad exhaust valve sounds like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw4bO8aEifQ