7.3 isi injection pump tester
- Thread starter Jeffrey
- Start date
If you want to test your pumps you will need to fork out some serious cash on some flow benches, these have never been diy reproduced because of the complications of these machines and the calibration standards. You can replicate a machine that will do the same job, but you won’t have a standard to compare to in order to tell if a pump is good or not, unless you had access to a good flow bench to test the pump on to compare to, and even then you might as well just buy a good bench from a trusted brand.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Its as posted above.These "machines" are cheap when you can purchase them for say $75,000.00 but... If you just want to see if the pump can shoot out fuel thru the head I say why not. If you want to connect hard lines and injectors sure... why not.But no way can you test pressure or volume of injection cycle.
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
best you can do is hook lines and injectors up supply fuel and turn it to see if the injectors fire
Seems to work for Diesel Care & Performance on their rebuilds.
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
hahahaha quality rebuild
Macrobb
Full Access Member
See, the thing is... volume is generally not the issue. If you hook a pump up to an injector or multiple and rotate the pump by hand(or with a drill), you can see if it'll squirt fuel.
The things that practically matter for a working pump are:
1. Cranking volume/pressure(can it create enough pressure to inject at cranking speeds). This can be checked with a drill/motor hooked up to the pump on a DIY bench.
2. Heat soak(which is cranking volume/pressure with the pump at high temps). Not sure on how to test that on a bench, and I'm guessing it's hard to test with a proper stand... which is why that's a major complaint with cheap rebuilds.
3. Injection timing. This is arguably one of the most important factors for a street pump, and one thats pretty hard to measure without a fairly in depth stand setup. You'd need at least a magnet and pickup on the drive gear, and a piezo pickup on an injector line, plus device for measuring time/degrees between the two pulses.
The things that practically matter for a working pump are:
1. Cranking volume/pressure(can it create enough pressure to inject at cranking speeds). This can be checked with a drill/motor hooked up to the pump on a DIY bench.
2. Heat soak(which is cranking volume/pressure with the pump at high temps). Not sure on how to test that on a bench, and I'm guessing it's hard to test with a proper stand... which is why that's a major complaint with cheap rebuilds.
3. Injection timing. This is arguably one of the most important factors for a street pump, and one thats pretty hard to measure without a fairly in depth stand setup. You'd need at least a magnet and pickup on the drive gear, and a piezo pickup on an injector line, plus device for measuring time/degrees between the two pulses.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Given the above, you could just swap the pumps onto the engine and run it, time it and see where the pump stands. With the right wrenches the whole thing can be swapped pretty darn quickly, youd just need to cut a paper gasket for the IP access plate instead of waiting for RTV to cure.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Usually, these have a rubber gasket there. The DB2 reseal kits I've gotten all come with one... and it's fully reusable. I've never had an issue removing the side plate, adjusting the fuel screw(the only thing in there) and reinstalling.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Not the side plate for turning up the fuel but the plate that covers the IP bolts that go through the timing gear. Mine has always been RTV so I didn't have anything else to go on.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Oh, yeah, that cover.
That's RTV, as far as I know. Get some Permatex 1-minute-gasket, and never have problems with that again!
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If I was just testing a pump, I'd just pry the cover off(breaking the RTV seal), and then just put it back on. It won't seal perfectly, but a couple of drops every so often will be just fine if you are taking the pump back off in a short amount of time.
If you were planning a permanent install, just use the 1-minute-gasket, tighten it down and go! No need to wait for it to cure.
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
If you have a spare set of lines to hook on your questionable pumps, just keep swapping them out and see how they run.
My best IP swap time ( new pump with all lines and fittings ready to go) was 18 minutes from start to engine start.
If you have a turbo add 10 minutes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My best IP swap time ( new pump with all lines and fittings ready to go) was 18 minutes from start to engine start.
If you have a turbo add 10 minutes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
