79jasper
Chickenhawk
@Cole Roberts visit this thread. https://www.oilburners.net/threads/motorcraft-fan-clutch-no-good.78019/
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That is interesting. And I see the way it works.
Wonder if it would be the same for a horizontal tube radiator...
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Just in case anyone is curious or anyone else reads this thread; I ended up pulling the radiator to get it boiled and pressure tested and they told me at the radiator shop that the radiator was no good. So I bought a new copper radiator and figured I might as well do a water pump whilst I’m in there. So at the end of the day I did a thermostat, radiator and water pump. As well as a fan clutch. Truck has been running good and cold (190 degrees) I have been doing some freeway towing with it recently on warm days and I have been pushing it a bit to see if I can get it hot. I was able to get up to about 210 on a pretty good grade on the freeway towing about 4K but once I crested the grade and was cruising at about 65 the engine temp quickly dropped to 190. I still don’t think my fan clutch has turned on yet though. I figured maybe since my radiator was clogged and not pushing heat off of it onto the fan clutch that that was preventing it from clicking on? If I can’t get it to turn on I will either try bending that coil or getting the original operating again. Unless it turns out that I don’t really need it.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Sorry for the late reply. I just got it all figured out and put back together. The bad radiator didn’t cause me much issue during the cold winter months.
That is a common complaint with the new fan clutches, the factory ones may have been the same way. They don't kick in till you are getting close to 230F. You will know it when it kicks in, it makes a terribly loud roaring noise under the hood.
Most of them are locked after they sit overnight and are first started in the morning. Is yours loud in the mornings?
That is a common complaint with the new fan clutches, the factory ones may have been the same way. They don't kick in till you are getting close to 230F. You will know it when it kicks in, it makes a terribly loud roaring noise under the hood.
I'm pretty sure RV's newer Motorcraft fan clutch (a rockauto closeout deal in 2019) kicks in sooner than 230, but I could be wrong.
If you are using the crappy factory gauges, you probably won't know. If I remember correctly, when the factory temp gauge gets to about 3/4 the way up, it should be kicking on. Any further and the gauge will suddenly peg from the overtemp switch kicking on. I have to question Ford engineering sometimes.
I have one of these, with the probe in the factory water temp gauge port because it was easier to reach on the van chassis engine than the dummy light port.
https://www.iequus.com/8242.html
That gauge looks great. I always liked the 270 degree sweep (the needle goes around in a almost full circle). It spreads the numbers out better.
Anyone who cares about their truck should have aftermarket gauges on it.
FWIW I have "dueling" coolant temp gauges in my cab, one in each head. Main gauge is an Autometer Phantom but secondary is a mechanical Equus. They are accurate and read very close together. I've had the Equus longer, at least 7 years and likely closer to 10.@Cubey I was under the impression those gauges were "less good and more cheap"
I assume they're working well for you? I still need to get some but I've been putting it off because of the expense of "good" gauges. If they're working well for you I might try them.
@Cubey I was under the impression those gauges were "less good and more cheap"
I assume they're working well for you? I still need to get some but I've been putting it off because of the expense of "good" gauges. If they're working well for you I might try them.