IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't think that would have anything to do with it. There's still two belts that are running your water pump and that turns your fan.
Im gonna give my two cents, as I have the same issues with the 93 in my sig. Ive done everything under the sun to my 93 including trying 3 different radiators. My truck runs hot in the desert down here, so hot that I cant even pull our 32 foot travel trailer with it. The last trip we took, I hit 250 on the grade to searchlight nv.
My fan clutch comes on later like many of the new ones, so the last trip we took, I reached down and popped the spring out of its slot so it would be locked full time. Even with the fan roaring constantly, the temps still climb right up.
We have owned one 6.9 and three 7.3 trucks and the only one that ever ran cool, was the 6.9. We know that the 6.9 head has more cooling passages and in this heat, it makes all the difference in the world. Ive had my fuel settings all over the place and same with the timing and nothing makes this truck run cool.
Im to the point now, that I told my son as soon as he gets his permit, he can have my 93. Ill be looking to buy a new gasser. ugh! Not that I want too but this thing cannot tow, period.
Also, for anyone wanting to use Champion radiators, Ive had a 4 row, a 3 row and am currently running a large tube two row from "O" however you spell it. I find that the current one seems to have a slight edge over the champions.
If anyone has a hidden miracle for us to make these things run cooler, Id be glad to hear it.
On the internal drain the coolant down below the top of the tubes and look in through radiator cap at the tube ends. Solder bloom ( white corrosion) and calcium build up are easy to see but tubes can still be plugged internally too...
That is interesting. And I see the way it works.Radiator guy showed me a trick to check for a clogged radiator. He said drain the radiator and take the lower hose off. Hold the palm of your hand over the lower radiator outlet to plug it off, and fill the radiator to the top with water. Then quickly pull your hand off the lower outlet. He said the lower outlet should flow full volume smoothly till the radiator is empty. If it gulps and gurgles and is not full volume as it's draining, then the radiator is partially clogged.
Vegas39 your problem is deeper than most and likely a small combustion leak into the cooling system.
To the OP: In cases like yours where even a new fan clutch doesn’t come on either the hot water is not getting to the radiator or the hot air is not getting to the front of the fan clutch. If the thermostat and the bottom radiator hose sucking flat have been eliminated then here are a couple I have run into.
If the radiator core is externally plugged with dirt and bugs limiting air flow, the hot air will never reach the thermostatic spring.
If the tubes in the radiator core are internally plugged in the area of the fan clutch, hot air will not reach the thermostatic spring on the clutch.
I drove those old school buses when they were new and even a few of the old 26 foot uhauls. Those things all had bigger radiators and no turbo. I could turn my fuel down even more but then the truck becomes a gutless pig in 105 plus degree weather.Vegas39 your problem is deeper than most and likely a small combustion leak into the cooling system.
To the OP: In cases like yours where even a new fan clutch doesn’t come on either the hot water is not getting to the radiator or the hot air is not getting to the front of the fan clutch. If the thermostat and the bottom radiator hose sucking flat have been eliminated then here are a couple I have run into.
If the radiator core is externally plugged with dirt and bugs limiting air flow, the hot air will never reach the thermostatic spring.
If the tubes in the radiator core are internally plugged in the area of the fan clutch, hot air will not reach the thermostatic spring on the clutch.
These engines were used in dump trucks, school buses, u haul trucks, etc. Of course any engine will overheat in the right conditions, but there is something going wrong with your setup, you just haven't found it yet. I do know even with my locked fan, if I am pulling a mountain with a loaded trailer, I can overheat mine also. These engines have lots of torque down low, and will keep on pulling at a lower rpm. But if I pull the mountain like that, the temperatures will start to climb. I have to force myself to downshift and let it scream, and then with my locked fan I can watch the temps start coming down, while still making slow progress up the mountain.
If you have a automatic, you might have to pull the lever down and force it to downshift. The waterpump turns faster, the fan pulls more air through the radiator, and there is more air going through the engine, especially if you have a turbo.