7.3 idi overheated and the c6 started to drip.

[Wrenchmonkey316]

I just bought a fan clutch yesterday evening but it’s still sitting in the box. I had to make a 1 hour steady uphill hwy trip to do a waterfall repair job this morning and it got hot (MArange) on me when I looked away from the gauge for a second. When I pulled over to cool down and take look at it I had no coolant leaks just some oily red stuff dripping from the passenger side of the c-6 transmission. After it cooled it’s fine, it doesn’t drip anymore. Fluid is still full. It’s a little wet around the pan, but it’s been like that for a long time, it holds the transmission fluid well.

I’m hoping someone will know if this possibly means anything…a bad/failing trans cooler line? Bad gasket on the “round thingy” (not the regulator) it’s bolted on the side of the transmission in the picture. It kinda looked like the leak was coming from that area. All comments and input are appreciated.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

The gauge you're talking about is coolant, right? I take it you installed an aftermarket gauge, cause the OEM one blows nugs. Like Holy Idiot Light Batman.
What were you towing? If the ATF level stays good, sounds like you're good to go to me, but I'm no slush-box aficionado. Looks like every other one I've ever crawled under!

I HAVE to know... HOW DO YOU REPAIR A WATERFALL?!?!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

How's your radiator? If it's not clean on the outside or inside of the cores, it will overheat. That will also keep additional heat in your transmission fluid If that gets hot enough, it will push some fluid out of the vent on the transmission which points toward the passenger's side. That's my guess on where the transmission fluid came from.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Hahahaha…ha! Update: the fluid appears to have come from a valve on top of the transmission. I was kinda thinking the cooling system as well. I’ll see what I can figure out. Thank you!

 

[XOLATEM]

additional heat in your transmission fluid If that gets hot enough, it will push some fluid out of the vent on the transmission which points toward the passenger's side.

IDIBRONCO nailed it...you are looking at the vent...and I second that notion...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

IDIBRONCO nailed it...you are looking at the vent...and I second that notion...

That was the only thing that made sense to me.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

The rad has a few little green stains starting from the top half way down but doesn’t leak fast enough to drip on the ground. I think a new rad is a due first step.

Notes:The cooling system gained pressure from running the truck cold for a couple minutes. It didn’t have any time to warm up at all. When I opened the cap, engine cold and off, coolant came out because it had pressure in it. I tested for leaks with the blue stuff and it stayed blue. Is some top rad hose pressure normal after a minute or two?

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

The gauge you're talking about is coolant, right? I take it you installed an aftermarket gauge, cause the OEM one blows nugs. Like Holy Idiot Light Batman.
What were you towing? If the ATF level stays good, sounds like you're good to go to me, but I'm no slush-box aficionado. Looks like every other one I've ever crawled under!

I HAVE to know... HOW DO YOU REPAIR A WATERFALL?!?!

Pump replacement is a really common one. It’s pretty much rocket science.

 

[XOLATEM]

the “round thingy” (not the regulator) it’s bolted on the side of the transmission in the picture.

That part is the intermediate servo housing...if you were to unbolt it...it should pop out from spring pressure and it has a piston sitting in it with a spring.

There are at least six different configurations of those...depending on the model...and they all affect the shifting into second and third range.

I have a collection of those...somewhere...I kept one of each piston in stock for quick turnaround when I used to build those units...heat would kill the pistons...

C-6's are good, tough units...just no OVD...

 

[Black dawg]

Yes, some pressure will build pretty quickly after a cold start.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Fortunately I have the pricey 4th gear od upgrade unit already installed on the c-6 3speed in this truck otherwise I’d be doing a zf5 swap for sure.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Is there a known aftermarket c-6 upgrade option I can buy with a deep pan, drain bolt added and a threaded transmission cooling sensor hole added?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Is there a known aftermarket c-6 upgrade option I can buy with a deep pan, drain bolt added and a threaded transmission cooling sensor hole added?

@Cubey

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Pump replacement is a really common one. It’s pretty much rocket science.

I think we are thinking different waterfalls. I'm thinking:

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And I'm thinking you're thinking:

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[Cubey]

Is there a known aftermarket c-6 upgrade option I can buy with a deep pan, drain bolt added and a threaded transmission cooling sensor hole added?

This is the only one I know of. Looks in short supply, sold out/backordered on several sites.

B&M 40281 B&M Hi-Tek Deep Transmission Pan - Ford C6 - Aluminum

Our Hi-Tek deep transmission pans are constructed from A356-T6 aluminum and are cast with thick internal and external fins, adding additional strength and increased cooling properties. The deep pan design increases fluid capacity by 2 quarts over the stock O.E. steel pan. All these features...

www.holley.com

Get cap screws from a hardware store ahead of time, because the pan I bought came with hex bolts that interfere with the pan. I had to stack washers too because the bolts are supposed to be 7/8" but I could only get 1" ones.

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