7.3 idi factory turbo best way to seal up-pipe

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by bad67ford, Jun 10, 2018.

  1. bad67ford

    bad67ford Registered User

    Posts:
    27
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Location:
    nj
    Recently I picked up a low milage 7.3 with factory turbo. For now I'm going to put the engine on a stand and go through it. I want to put the turbo on my na 7.3. I have read a lot of posts about the up pipe not sealing and I want to be proactive and find the best way to seal it. I can think of three possible ways. #1 Welding it the only down side is no room for expansion. #2 putting a low profile exhaust donut like on the power strokes.#3 stove pipe sealant that would be the last option because it seems like that blows out more times than not. The pipes have a some what of a tight fit not too sloppy there is some soot on the connection but not excessive. Tell me what you guys think I'm open to any ideas
     
  2. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

    Posts:
    1,724
    Likes Received:
    607
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    edmond, ks
    I wouldn't weld it. You would have to cut your pipe in order to remove it. I'm not sure if there is a gasket that would work on one of these. Where exactly is your leak?
     
  3. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,672
    Likes Received:
    646
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2016
    Location:
    North Idaho
    If you have the engine out of the truck, you can pull the whole assembly off and install it on the new motor without taking it apart.
    You may have to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold to do it, but you can do so.
     
  4. bad67ford

    bad67ford Registered User

    Posts:
    27
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Location:
    nj
    The leak if there is one will be between the y and up pipe the turbo is already off the engine and the up pipe is separated
     
  5. genscripter

    genscripter Full Access Member

    Posts:
    294
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Location:
    Inglewood, CA
    It would depend on how big of a leak. If it's something rather tiny, you could use some acoustical sealant to make up the gap until the carbon completely seals it up. My hypermax kit has a hairline seam that never seals on it own from the down pipes and up pipes at the pedestal. I use a bit of acoustical sealant to dam up the seam, and the carbon takes care of the rest.

    However, if it's a substantial leak, then you shouldn't use the acoustical stuff. there is a slight fire risk, so gobbing on massive quantities to fill a large gap isn't prudent. At that point, you'd need to be creative.
     
  6. bad67ford

    bad67ford Registered User

    Posts:
    27
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Location:
    nj
    It looks like it may seal ok on its own. I have also heard of people using stove pipe cement. I have seen donuts as thin as 1/8” maybe that might do it
     
  7. tbrumm

    tbrumm Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,099
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2012
    Location:
    Richland Center, WI
    I will be watching this, as I will be putting a used OEM turbo kit on my truck in the near future. I had a heck of a time separating the so called "y" pipe from the turbo up pipe. I soaked it is penetrating oil for over a week and applied heat, and eventually got them apart. So, there was no leakage, and I hated to separate them, but I can't see any other way to do the installation with the motor in the truck except by separating the two. Hopefully, when I do the installation the two will "weld" themselves back together again. I am not sure I would want o put anything in between them that would prevent that. By the way, the ATS installation instructions state that you should put hi-temp anti seize in that joint. I suppose that is so you might be able to get the pipes apart with the motor still in the truck.
     
  8. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    4,151
    Likes Received:
    2,147
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    Good coating of this and make sure it’s seated well and it won’t leak. CA84B0E1-DAAE-486E-8D5C-6A956C68FE41.jpeg
     
    tbrumm likes this.
  9. bad67ford

    bad67ford Registered User

    Posts:
    27
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Location:
    nj
    I have used that on leaky headers on a gas job before
     
  10. bad67ford

    bad67ford Registered User

    Posts:
    27
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Location:
    nj
    update I put the turbo on and the up pipe was leaking slightly,I could see some soot around the joint.I took TheWesPaul's advice and put some copper rtv on the joint and no more leak. I took it one step further and wrapped the male end with aluminum tape 2 wraps is all it took for tight fit no sign of any leak.Now to turn that baby moose and waste gate up

    Thanks for all the good advice
     
    Thewespaul likes this.
  11. flareside_thun

    flareside_thun I Want Boost!

    Posts:
    3,069
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2008
    Location:
    Grand Island, Florida
    I'd convert to vband.....
     
  12. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    4,151
    Likes Received:
    2,147
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    Sure but then you open yourself up to all the issues involved with welding 25 year old cast
     
    tbrumm likes this.
  13. flareside_thun

    flareside_thun I Want Boost!

    Posts:
    3,069
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2008
    Location:
    Grand Island, Florida
    Pffft, get it cherry red and feed it some hot mig.
     
  14. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    4,151
    Likes Received:
    2,147
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Location:
    Bulverde, Texas
    Uhuh :flush
     

Share This Page