1991 F250 4wd, rear main oil seal
- Thread starter noddaz
- Start date
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
It's a one piece seal that's a little trick to install without damaging the new one while installing it.
IIRC a Wendy's medium size drink cup fits the crank perfect to ease installing the new one without rolling the new seal.
IIRC a Wendy's medium size drink cup fits the crank perfect to ease installing the new one without rolling the new seal.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The seal you want is the double lip seal with the speedy sleeve repair for the worn crank. Its easy to install. The directions state not to remove the seal from the sleeve when installing but I do and no problems ever. The plate it resides in can be removed from the block. You will need the gasket for the plate. Ford sells this as a complete set. Just make sure the plate at the pan gasket is very clean and use plenty of RTV there. I use permatex copper plus because its high temp and oil proof. Mine have never leaked. Also I never use a oil pan gasket... Just the same RTV as mentioned. How are you sure the main seal is leaking??? Sometimes the valve cover gaskets or if you have a turbo maybe the drain back into the valley pan grommet is leaking.... Don't try to replace just the seal because if you are using the double lip seal it wont fit the crank and if it is installed the worn crank will ruin it in short time.
6 Nebraska IDIs
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Really.... I replaced the rear main in my moms truck 3 times last year, the last time I put that repair bushing (yes bushing, because a sleeve is thin, this thing is about 1/4" thick and only fits on the crank if you heat it up and beat it on there) on the crank and it lasted a little while longer, maybe got another week out of it over the other two seal replacements. Rear main seals are by far the biggest PITA job EVER to do on these trucks and when they don't work you only get frustrated faster with them the next time.
I really wish I knew what I was doing wrong because I'm sick of replacing them, and I'm going to be installing a new one in my brown trucks engine here soon as well. I really don't want this one leaking.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Sean... Where did you buy this seal with the 1/4 inch thick sleeve??? I have never heard or seen such. Mine are Ford or International only parts. I bought 2 of them from Ford Parts Online (Bob Utter Ford in Sherman Texas) that cost around $45.00 each and needed another one... That one cost me over $80.00 at International-Navistar....
All of them had the thin metal sleeve and were easy to install on th crank. That rear plate also has to be aligned within several thousands on the runout.... Did you see that small alignment pin in the block or is yours missing???
All of them had the thin metal sleeve and were easy to install on th crank. That rear plate also has to be aligned within several thousands on the runout.... Did you see that small alignment pin in the block or is yours missing???
geonc
SPIDER BAIT
hey guys, the seals manufactured in the past 10 years or so have some degree of teflon imbedded in them and do not like oil!
In the past it was acceptable and necessary to lightly lube the metal surface....no longer true and will cause premature failure!
Most of the oversize and standard seals come with install sleeves even the pricey ones from Ford
IDI's have a seal carrier as Gary mentioned...just remove the lower rear oil pan bolts as well as the carrier bolts and it comes right off allowing easier seal removal and better access when the old wear sleeve {if an oversize seal was used} needs to be removed...usually a couple nice hits from a beatin' iron using a dull chisel will swell and distort the sleeve enough to remove it without damaging the crank end ....
Dont sweat it if you cannot fully seat the sleeve....get it on as far as the install tool {usually supplied--altho may be hard plastic!} allows and the flywheel will seat it.
Another thing on the IDI seal carrier...If memory serves, a couple if not all the carrier bolts are thru tapped---meaning the thread bores are not blind and go directly into the crankcase----so use some p-tex #2 on the threads to avoid any possible leaks.
Hope this is of some help
In the past it was acceptable and necessary to lightly lube the metal surface....no longer true and will cause premature failure!
Most of the oversize and standard seals come with install sleeves even the pricey ones from Ford
IDI's have a seal carrier as Gary mentioned...just remove the lower rear oil pan bolts as well as the carrier bolts and it comes right off allowing easier seal removal and better access when the old wear sleeve {if an oversize seal was used} needs to be removed...usually a couple nice hits from a beatin' iron using a dull chisel will swell and distort the sleeve enough to remove it without damaging the crank end ....
Dont sweat it if you cannot fully seat the sleeve....get it on as far as the install tool {usually supplied--altho may be hard plastic!} allows and the flywheel will seat it.
Another thing on the IDI seal carrier...If memory serves, a couple if not all the carrier bolts are thru tapped---meaning the thread bores are not blind and go directly into the crankcase----so use some p-tex #2 on the threads to avoid any possible leaks.
Hope this is of some help
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
All the 6.9 & 7.3 crank to flywheel bolt holes are drilled thru into the oil side of the oil pan. They will leak if the threads are not sealed. This info is directly from my service manual. Others have found out these bolt threads do in fact leak oil if you don't use a sealant on them.... Really messes up the standard clutches too..... I use some rtv on mine or some blue loctite. That way they never come loose like some have to other members....
that's where the fun begins
Anybody ever mess with this stuff??
http://www.barsproducts.com/1050.htm
Kinda curious if it works. I bought a bottle just in case I ever got brave enough to try it.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1050.htm
Kinda curious if it works. I bought a bottle just in case I ever got brave enough to try it.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
I'd try it in Mater. He's got enough leaks that should be plugged up.
The older products like that, that promised to stop leaks typically had a form of mineral spirits in them that would cause the rubber of seals to swell, which I guess would stop a leak but it also made the rubber extremely soft and easy to tear in most cases. Maybe they have came up with something new 
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Alomst sounds too good to be true... Kinda like the motor overhaul in a can....
I've never found anything made by that company to work...I don't see why this should be any different .
