093 vacuum actuator

[Runningaford]

Greetings,

I just recently installed my rebuilt turbo. It was only getting around 4psi of boost with decent acceleration, and 0 most of the time. I checked for leaks everywhere, and found none. I took it into a diesel shop to have them try to figure it out. They're telling me the vacuum actuator valve for the wastegate is the issue; they said it was toast.

The shop said they're having a hard time locating one; does anyone know where I can get one for the 093. I'm not sure, but the guy mentioned needing the mounting bracket as well; I assume that it's riveted to it, or something...don't recall looking at it that closely.

Thanks In Advance,

 

[icanfixall]

I bet you typ4 has that part. He is the expert on these turbos around here. May try Mel Agne who goes by agnem here. He owns Conestoga Diesel Injection Shop in Pa. Either would be your best bet.

 

[Runningaford]

Much appreciated, Russ rebuilt it, I've got an email out to him, as well as a call into Conestoga. I was trying to search it myself, and haven't found much; I was hoping for an easy to find online vendor.

 

[sjwelds]

Hmmm. Have you tried adjusting the wastegate rod?

 

[Runningaford]

Hmmm. Have you tried adjusting the wastegate rod?

Negative, have not touched the wastegate rod; I did read where not holding the shaft, while adjusting the wastegate will break the valve diaphragm. I remember reading somewhere that Jared was getting near 10psi. I checked for leaks first, found none. I did spray the actuator rod with PB in advance of even considering adjusting the rod length.............. But with all considered, and no leaks that I could find, I took it to the diesel shop.

 

[sjwelds]

Yeah but could the rod have been messed with prior to you getting the turbo and therefore is set lower or something stupid?

 

[Clb]

Whats actually wrong with it?
Not all indie's are created equal' many wont even touch an idi.

 

[Runningaford]

I've got Joel from Conestoga actually calling the diesel shop where the truck is at right now. TALK ABOUT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!! I know exactly where I'm getting my pump, injectors, and more from

For right now, he's thinking it isn't the actuator, but the mechanical valve at the rear. From what I've read, I agree. Something holding it open, or ?

Where ever this goes, let me give a huge shout out to Conestoga Diesel!!!!

 

[Runningaford]

Okay, Joel gave me a call back, the actuator was frozen to the rod. After discussing options with Joel, for now I'm going to have the diesel shop wire the mechanical actuator closed. I'll deal with the wastegate actuator later.

 

[icanfixall]

Sometimes the rod will freeze up where it goes thru the turbo case and bushings. Warm up the engine and spray it with Aerokroil. Tap lightly with a small hammer. Many times it will free up. Once its closed you wont need anything to hold it closed. The exhaust pressure keeps it closed. Boost pressure will push it open. Ever wonder why when a person removes the canister hose and pluggs it their boost can usually go off scale high...

 

[Runningaford]

The actuator valve has no damage on the outside; there's no dings, dents, what have you, the rod is perfectly centered and FROZEN. I got the truck back, it's got 1 psi more worth of boost; I ride at 0, and under good acceleration hit 5 pushing it.

So the actuator was frozen in place, keeping the wastegate open. I've got the actuator in my floorboard, but am wondering how you can tell whether the mechanical side, or gate is actually fully closed???? Joel from Conestoga stated that there could be old metal flakes in the actual wastegate. Is there any way short of removal to see this? Is it as simple as stating it's closed when the actuator handle is say at 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock, et el???

@icanfixall,

With what's stated above, where do I tap it? I think to close the gate would be forward, I can't get a hammer in behind there, so tap the side, with it running in an attempt to let the exhaust pressure close it fully?? Will that remove built up rust scale?

 

[towcat]

without really throwing a load on the truck, will you know what the turbo will or won't do. without a load on the '92 i'm running 3-4 psi. when dragging around 18k/lbs gross combined around, I'm hitting 7psi on a 8% hill. honestly, the numbers are meaningless. the higher the boost, the higher the heat, the sooner you will need to get out of the throttle. at 7psi, I'm at 1000* max on a 120* plus day. when running at night, I don't even bother looking at the gauges.

 

[Runningaford]

without really throwing a load on the truck, will you know what the turbo will or won't do. without a load on the '92 i'm running 3-4 psi. when dragging around 18k/lbs gross combined around, I'm hitting 7psi on a 8% hill. honestly, the numbers are meaningless. the higher the boost, the higher the heat, the sooner you will need to get out of the throttle. at 7psi, I'm at 1000* max on a 120* plus day. when running at night, I don't even bother looking at the gauges.

Thanks for the response, how many flats do you have your fuel up, and are you wastegated? As it should be right now, I'm not wastegated(unless the actual gate is stuck open)... I didn't inspect it when I got it back as I thought it was a full rebuild. After physically inspecting the actuator valve, and rod, it's stuck solid, I mean stuck; something internal as there's no exterior damage. Since it was holding the actual gate open; I have to wonder if the gate is closed all the way, or is there crap built up in there now? I don't know whether that's a normal thing to look over in a rebuild, or not, but I'd think a full rebuild would at least insure it's functionality.

What I'm seriously worried about, is if that gate is partially open, and at some point under load it closes completely, would it cause the boost to spike severe enough to cause engine damage; I've got the regular head bolts now; no studs.

 

[towcat]

Thanks for the response, how many flats do you have your fuel up, and are you wastegated? As it should be right now, I'm not wastegated(unless the actual gate is stuck open)... I didn't inspect it when I got it back as I thought it was a full rebuild. After physically inspecting the actuator valve, and rod, it's stuck solid, I mean stuck; something internal as there's no exterior damage. Since it was holding the actual gate open; I have to wonder if the gate is closed all the way, or is there crap built up in there now? I don't know whether that's a normal thing to look over in a rebuild, or not, but I'd think a full rebuild would at least insure it's functionality.

What I'm seriously worried about, is if that gate is partially open, and at some point under load it closes completely, would it cause the boost to spike severe enough to cause engine damage; I've got the regular head bolts now; no studs.

physically not possible for the wastegate to "close" under boost. the can holds the flapper "normally closed" until a certain level of boost overcomes the resistance in the spring. overboosting also overcomes the resistance in the spring. is the flapper "self cleaning"? somewhat.
imho, you're overthinking the whole thing. relax.
my '92 is runnning a 7.3 with a 093 aftermarket turbo and a ATS IC. fuel is maxed.

 

[Runningaford]

Okay, You're right, I was/am overthinking this! . I got a little confused on how it all works from a couple posts above. After digesting your post, I went to the university of youtube; found some great turbo videos there.

I comprehend/visualize exactly how the mechanical gate works now. Hence why without the actuator it needs to be wired closed; so as to not bleed off all possible boost. Being wired shut, it literally cannot 'go crazy' beyond a linear path up under load. I guess we'll see what it does in a couple weeks when I get back, and hook it back to the fifth wheel. Hopefully it doesn't hit too high of a boost with it wired.