Free turbo with help

[vegas39]

so with all my stop and go city driving and this e40d, I think I'm wanting a wastegated turbo. The low rpm lag and smoke, sucks.
I'm thinking about ordering a sidewinder kit but have a couple issues and one of those is, I'm having some nerve issues with my hands and tackling that project, along with changing exhaust, is a bit more than I want to take on.
If someone was willing to help do most of the install, I'd let them haul off my old setup. Right now, it's one of those first gen banks kits with no waste gate. It works great and has no issues.
Just throwing the idea out there for someone who may be willing to do this.
Thanks!

 

[Macrobb]

Honestly, I'd try a cheaper route first:
1. Get a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter. This will let you turn the fuel up all the way, /WITHOUT/ smoke down low.
You can adjust it to give you the most power you can, and it honestly made my truck 'snappier' down low than without it.
2. Adjust the timing. Chances are, a couple degrees of advance will probably make it snappier, give you more power and fuel economy.

I don't have a non-WG Banks right now to test, but they shouldn't be that bad if you can get it to spool. Timing is critical here, and as the IP wears, timing gets retarded.

 

[towcat]

if you do get a kit, I'd suggest a rebuilt turbo kit from Russ/typ4 with the large compressor wheel. an exhaust system from Diamond Eye for a 95-98 PSD will finish it out nicely. you're already at altitude, so a larger compressor wheel is your friend.

 

[vegas39]

I tried the smoke puff limiter on my last truck and hated it honestly. It doesn't look like it would fit with the banks air cleaner box anyway.
My pump and injectors were new a month ago and I'm very happy with the power.
All my previous trucks were non WG. I drove a wastegated 90 a few days ago and really liked how it reacted.
I plan on putting a few bucks in this truck and I'm really not opposed to a fresh turbo kit.

 

[vegas39]

if you do get a kit, I'd suggest a rebuilt turbo kit from Russ/typ4 with the large compressor wheel. an exhaust system from Diamond Eye for a 95-98 PSD will finish it out nicely. you're already at altitude, so a larger compressor wheel is your friend.

Hmmmm. I'll have to contact him.
So is there a wastegated unit that would swap in place of what I have now, as opposed to a whole new kit?

 

[Macrobb]

I tried the smoke puff limiter on my last truck and hated it honestly.

How? Why?

I mean, obviously you have to adjust it correctly for your boost/power level, but considering I love mine... what didn't you like?

Hmmmm. I'll have to contact him.
So is there a wastegated unit that would swap in place of what I have now, as opposed to a whole new kit?

I'm sure you can; pretty sure the up-pipe has a T3 flange. The down-pipe might need an adapter, and depending on the size, you might need a couple of adapters or pieces for the intake side, but that's not particularly hard depending. Typ4 can definitely hook you up with stuff, and R&D IDI Performance is another place to check.

 

[vegas39]

How? Why?

I mean, obviously you have to adjust it correctly for your boost/power level, but considering I love mine... what didn't you like?

I honestly can't remember now but could never get it right.
I ended up putting a weaker spring in it because it wanted a couple pounds of boost to start working and with the fuel cutoff, it just wouldn't get moving

I'm sure you can; pretty sure the up-pipe has a T3 flange. The down-pipe might need an adapter, and depending on the size, you might need a couple of adapters or pieces for the intake side, but that's not particularly hard depending. Typ4 can definitely hook you up with stuff, and R&D IDI Performance is another place to check.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I tried the smoke puff limiter on my last truck and hated it honestly.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you're doing mostly in town driving, I'd recommend a wastegated turbo. You'll be happier, I think. Now I didn't recommend a new kit over Russ's. Just get something with a wastegate.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

The banks wastegated sidewinders,that I put on both my trucks,didn't change anything in driveability from N/A.Meaning,the trucks feel just the same as they did when N/A,just with a whole lot more nuts.
I have no other experiences with other turbos and have nothing to compare them to,beside N/A.
95% of my driving is in 25-45 MPH zones.
4.9% in 55 MPH zones and 0.1% in above....where I still drive 55 anyway.

Still stumped on why the hypermax SML was disliked.Works great on my bull moose.

 

[Macrobb]

I honestly can't remember now but could never get it right.
I ended up putting a weaker spring in it because it wanted a couple pounds of boost to start working and with the fuel cutoff, it just wouldn't get moving

Well, that's probably the problem. Generally, you'd adjust it for a little smoke with it unhooked(low-pressure setting), to where you have decent response. Then, hook it up and you should be fine.

That being said, if you still have it, contact me. I'd love to buy it off you.

The banks wastegated sidewinders,that I put on both my trucks,didn't change anything in driveability from N/A.Meaning,they trucks feel just the same as they did when N/A,just with a whole lot more nuts.
I have no other experiences with other turbos and have nothing to compare them to,beside N/A.

It's not the turbo that affects drivability - it just gives you more air. It's the IP and how it's tuned.
Add a turbo but leave the IP the same? You will barely notice the turbo.
Crank the pump up all the way? More guts, but you can make it baulk if you floor it off idle(massive overfueling).
Bigger pump(110cc+)? That's when you end up with 'drivability' issues - it's scary when you are at a stop sign turning onto a 45mph road, you see a gap, stab the throttle and let out the clutch...and the engine just bogs down instead of lighting off, along with a large cloud of black smoke.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I can floor the accelerator on either truck and I've never experienced "making it baulk".
I had a N/A IP on chip truck.Turbocharged the truck.Left the IP alone.Just like you describe.....I didn't notice the turbo.I turned it up a flat or two and I saw 10+ lbs.....OK that's much different.
If I floored it,it would just rev and go.Boost right up quick.Very responsive turbos.

Next,I added an intercooler and maxed the fuel on the N/A IP.....good lord,another nice little boost in power.Lastly,I put a bull moose on it and she got smokey off the line but holy crap,now OD felt like 3rd! I called Mel back up and got the SML and it's been nice.
The only thing I wish I had,was a slightly sooner OD to 3rd downshift,this is where she still puffs a bit before kicking down.

Log truck,same exact setup.Just with an N/A IP.....but with it's silly fun 5.13 gearing,it's got more power than I can use 99% of the time.The other 1% is just for having fun,cus it's never needed. So I suppose I'll just keep the N/A IP on it.Works good for 25-55MPH. Due to the low gearing,this truck is boosting just rolling along at like 35mph or higher.Chip truck with it's 3.55's need's to be under some load to boost.

Neither truck will stumble or over fuel off the line.Great little,snappy turbo's.....but that's the problem I suppose for someone looking for big power,you kinda need a big turbo to go with it but,then the whole can opens,of engine reman,shaved pistons and where does it end....nothing I'm in need of for my old man speed limits around these parts and old horse and buggy trails,paved over (seriously.half of them or more probably lol!)

 

[vegas39]

The puff limiter is gone, it was on the truck when it got wrecked.
I just turned the ip down the other day for too much smoke at low rpm.
I took the advice here and quit shutting off OD in town.
There are times when I'll be cruising at 1400 rpm and need to accelerate and it's like a freight train. Any other time it's great as long as the rpm's are up.
Even if I wanted to try a puff limiter again, I don't think it would clear the banks air cleaner.
another thing I don't wanna do is crank up the fuel real high. My days of babysitting pyros are done. I did all my hot rodding with the last two trucks and I'm kinda ready to just settle down and relax.

 

[oregon96psd]

Even if I wanted to try a puff limiter again, I don't think it would clear the banks air cleaner.

That's why you deal with that space wasting pos lol (I've since cleaned it up to make it look a little more presentable)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Thewespaul]

Well, that's probably the problem. Generally, you'd adjust it for a little smoke with it unhooked(low-pressure setting), to where you have decent response. Then, hook it up and you should be fine.

That being said, if you still have it, contact me. I'd love to buy it off you.


It's not the turbo that affects drivability - it just gives you more air. It's the IP and how it's tuned.
Add a turbo but leave the IP the same? You will barely notice the turbo.
Crank the pump up all the way? More guts, but you can make it baulk if you floor it off idle(massive overfueling).
Bigger pump(110cc+)? That's when you end up with 'drivability' issues - it's scary when you are at a stop sign turning onto a 45mph road, you see a gap, stab the throttle and let out the clutch...and the engine just bogs down instead of lighting off, along with a large cloud of black smoke.

A non gated turbo affects drive ability tremendously, you end up with a large turbine housing that the exhaust has to really grunt against to light off, its like having a clogged cat at low rpms only. If you look at dyno graphs non gated turbos will actually make less power than a na truck in low rpms because of the resistance to flow.