Free turbo with help

Tristan

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Posts
374
Reaction score
154
Location
Federal Way, WA
That's why you deal with that space wasting pos lol (I've since cleaned it up to make it look a little more presentable)


You must be registered for see images attach

I did the same, I hated that air box!

You must be registered for see images attach



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

vegas39

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Posts
1,601
Reaction score
69
Location
las vegas, nv
I'm kinda surprised I didn't have a few people jumping on the offer to help me do an install and haul the old kit away.

Not sure what route I'm gonna take yet, I'll think on it a bit.
I'm driving it to Cali tomorrow morning to dump the camper shell off of it and then it's going to the paint shop.
I'll give some thought to turbo options while the truck is down.
 

vegas39

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Posts
1,601
Reaction score
69
Location
las vegas, nv
I just bought a new filter for my banks box. I'd kinda hate to cut it up at this point
 

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
A non gated turbo affects drive ability tremendously, you end up with a large turbine housing that the exhaust has to really grunt against to light off, its like having a clogged cat at low rpms only. If you look at dyno graphs non gated turbos will actually make less power than a na truck in low rpms because of the resistance to flow.

That's incredible.I've never read this before.I think I would just went back N/A lol.
Do you have these dyno graphs? Was it from the same truck,before and after?
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
I can floor the accelerator on either truck and I've never experienced "making it baulk".
You've got automatics?



I've only really noticed it under a specific set of conditions, on my manual truck - From a stop at idle, letting the clutch out in 2nd gear(4.10 rear end), while giving it throttle. If I let the clutch out too far as I'm giving it throttle, instead of the revs going up, they go down - so you start at say 800 RPM, as you give it throttle it hits 12-1400 RPM, then the clutch "grabs" and starts dragging the RPM down. The lower the RPM, the less torque, too.



Normally, what will happen is that the truck will get up to the 7 MPH or whatever it needs to be at idle in 2nd before the engine completely dies, and it'll just kind of lurch and take off. With a big fuel pump, though, the governor will respond to the drop in RPM by adding fuel... a LOT of fuel, and due to the design of the IP and timing, it'll feed it in really early. So you get a ton of fuel dumped in, extremely advanced, the truck clatters like mad and smokes, trying to die unless you put the clutch in a bit or let off on the throttle.



Remember, this is all within the 800-1400 RPM range during takeoff; Once you are moving, it's pretty hard to get the RPMs down that low.


If you rev it way up as you are taking off, or don't try to take off quite so quickly, it's not a problem. It's also something I've only /really/ noticed with /my/ RD2-110; It's pretty sensitive for the first 1/16 of the pedal travel. So the difference between "idle" and "too much fueling" right off idle(remember - little load) is just a hair.
(Once you are in a higher gear with a bunch of resistance on the engine, it takes a lot more pedal travel to give it the same "effective" amount of throttle input; simply because the total amount of fuel is higher).

I just tried to do it with my 200-hp stock-IP '92, and didn't have any issues; probably because the governor is still less sensitive down low.
I'd still like to get a SPL on there to reduce or eliminate smoke, especially when I have a trailer on.


A non gated turbo affects drive ability tremendously, you end up with a large turbine housing that the exhaust has to really grunt against to light off, its like having a clogged cat at low rpms only. If you look at dyno graphs non gated turbos will actually make less power than a na truck in low rpms because of the resistance to flow.
I'm... skeptical:
1. How is a wastegated turbo with the wastegate disconnected any different than a non-wastegated turbo?
2. I've driven my truck with my TE06H, wastegate disconnected... and the turbine /jammed/ with an allen key - it would not rotate, period.
I didn't notice any difference in power below about 1600 RPM, where the turbo was /supposed/ to engage - even with a bigger wastegated turbo, it would be providing some added air at that point.
3. I've also driven with a S360(non-wastegated, of course). That's a pretty big turbo; down low, it really doesn't feel any different. Except, actually, once I got the .63 housing on it, that was actually giving me boost far lower in the rev range.
I've also driven it with the charge air boots disconnected; it's pretty interesting. Again, you don't really notice the (lack of) power until hitting 1800+ RPM or 30+MPH; down low, it doesn't make much difference as far as I can tell.

On top of all that, I can't believe that any IDI-sized turbo would make more restriction down low than the stock exhaust system.
 
Last edited:

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
I'm kinda surprised I didn't have a few people jumping on the offer to help me do an install and haul the old kit away.
I'm up in North Idaho... I mean, sure, if you wanted to come all the way up here, I'd gladly do it... But I'm guessing you don't want to drive halfway across the country. ;)
 

oregon96psd

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Posts
669
Reaction score
136
Location
Kuna, ID
I'm kinda surprised I didn't have a few people jumping on the offer to help me do an install and haul the old kit away.


The "big three" (banks, hypermax, ats) are all pretty much **** systems, designed to work around a stock idi that can't handle much boost, their not worth much. The effort to remove one and install a new one isn't worth the time to do it, if your dead set on installing a new kit, just do it yourself and try to peddle the old one in the classified's....imho.
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
That's incredible.I've never read this before.I think I would just went back N/A lol.
Do you have these dyno graphs? Was it from the same truck,before and after?
Look up some dyno graphs, if you have driven a non gated turbo you would know how much of a dog they are until they spool
 

towcat

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Posts
18,196
Reaction score
1,437
Location
SantaClara,Ca/Hamilton,TX
I'm kinda surprised I didn't have a few people jumping on the offer to help me do an install and haul the old kit away.
I can suggest to you how to spend your money wisely, but I'm not interested in the "trade". The kids into big HP these days won't be either. If you are interested in heading out my way, I'd be willing to install Russ's kit and maybe hold a GTG at the same weekend. for the exhaust system install, I run all my install work through a friend's muffler shop.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
Did not notice any lose on top either.
The Wastegated turbos(both Ford-spec and Banks) are good for around 250RWHP. You don't have enough fuel to make that with a stock IP fully turned up - possibly 220 if you are lucky, 180-200 realistically.
So, the turbo's not a restriction at that power level.
 
Top