Is this the fast idle solenoid? And do I need it?

[jaed_43725]

I live in NC. During the summer really don't. But couldn't I just hold the throttle for a minute?

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['94IDITurbo7.3]

yes sir that is the cold idle solenoid.

 

[HammerDown]

Doesn't that part also come into play when the AC is turned-on > holding the rpm up at-idle, to compensate for the ac compressor trying to lower it?

 

[swervyjoe]

Just curious, why do you want to get rid of it?

 

[jaed_43725]

I don't necessarily want to get rid of it. But its expensive and its sticking. It keeps the truck at like 1200 rpm after its warmed up and everything. So since I don't have money to throw at it right now I could at least get rid of it until I can replace it.

 

[SLC97SR5]

Doesn't that part also come into play when the AC is turned-on > holding the rpm up at-idle, to compensate for the ac compressor trying to lower it?

No, it is only activated when coolant temp is below 150 or 120*f.

 

[madpogue]

So the solenoid may be fine, but the switch to activate it may be what's inop. What happens when you disconnect it electrically?

 

[icanfixall]

Thats not a needed item but its great for warmups. electrically disconnecteing it is easier than removing it.

 

[Dave 001]

and its sticking.

Give it a shot of Sea Foam Deep Creep (or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is) and work it back and forth. The penetraing oil will not hurt anything. The plunger often rust/corrodes and sticks in the solenoid.

 

[gdhillon]

My plunger moves in and out freely but im convinced i dont ever have a fast idle, how would i test the electric side of it (from the truck and on the solenoid itself)

 

[dgr]

gd,
From the cab, turn key on, press pedal to floor and start.

From the engine bay, have someone get in cab and turn key. You should see the brass bolt extend to touch the throttle lever. Press back on the throttle lever and the brass bolt should follow it.

Or take a hot wire, disconnect the connector on the solenoid and touch the wire to the spade on the solenoid. The brass bolt should extend.

That brass bolt is how you adjust it also.

I had a crazy thought in the past that an idle stop solenoid off a carburetor could be swapped in there. They're used to fully close the butterflies on a carb so that newer, better, leaner running cars wouldn't diesel on shutdown. They might also be used to kick up idle with the AC on. You can get one of them for about $50.

 

[franklin2]

You don't need it. My temp sensor switch that operates it was bad since I bought the truck. They wanted $50 for it, so I decided to hook a switch to it instead. It's also hooked to the cold advance wire to the injection pump. With the switch on the engine idled a little bit faster, and you could hear the engine running differently from the advance working, but I saw no improvement as far as smoke, warm-up time, etc. I believe you could let these engines sit there for a hour and they never would warm up.

I just took the switch and it's wiring back out that I added in. Fast idle for the A/C? These engines don't even know the compressor has kicked in. That's the great thing about a diesel.

 

[gdhillon]

Dgr, I have tried that before (the in cab method) and I saw no difference in the way it idled. Right now I have the IP out, this is why i am wondering how I could fix/do the high idle mod since I have the fast idle solenoid off anywho. By hot wire do you mean a wire touching one of the positive terminals on the battery to the connector?

I don't have A/C I just want the high idle for cold winter days and if i have to idle it for long I want to avoid wet stacking

 

[dgr]

gdhillion,
Hot to the spade connector. Ground to the body of it. The brass rod should extend.

As far as my mention of A/C, that was in regards to carburetors. Those come on gas vehicles, not diesels.

 

[gdhillon]

I see, so i can bench test it with positive to spade and negative to body of it?