Yes it has both tanks, the rear one is a 38 gallon one, and they have the pickup with a sump at the bottom of the tank. I had put $175 worth of diesel in the rear tank and was running on that one when it died. That was before diesel went up to $8/gallon so it was about half a tank.
6.9 died on the freeway and I can't get it started again
- Thread starter Tk83
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@Jesus Freak
Whatchu laughing at holms...
Grapes aint farming..
Whatchu laughing at holms...
Grapes aint farming..
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Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I just thought the "groping for locals other than a 'diesel auto shop' list" was great...... a grape farmer with a 1520 JD would definitely be more helpful than a ASE certified "Duramax expert"......
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The batteries may be what's holding you up. I can understand not wanting to buy them, but your current ones may not be enough. Even with charged batteries and jumper cables attached. It takes A LOT of battery to be able to get air bled out and then start the engine again. If you do buy new batteries, you can always pull them back out if you end up selling the truck.
I'd be happy to buy new batteries if I could actually find the problem, but the truck still ran out of fuel and died on the freeway with both tanks half full, and is useless to me if I can't find the problem, and no more than scrap value to anyone who doesnt already own at least one of those trucks and a trailer in its current condition.
I know it will need batteries to drive anymore, but I want to confirm as best I can that it's repairable before spending too much more money.
I'm going to try starting it with the return line on the pump disconnected and see what happens next.
I know it will need batteries to drive anymore, but I want to confirm as best I can that it's repairable before spending too much more money.
I'm going to try starting it with the return line on the pump disconnected and see what happens next.
White smoke out the exhaust at least means fuel is getting to the injectors. Aside from other problems, it can be difficult to start an IDI without good batteries and glow plugs.
Any chance you still have the two-piece fuel filter/water separator? The two-piece style is infamous for air intrusion.
Any chance you still have the two-piece fuel filter/water separator? The two-piece style is infamous for air intrusion.
Reading back through the thread, I did not try using the block heater, and I did not try disconnecting the return line on the top of the pump but have tried everything else. I haven't had time to work on it again yet but I'm planning to do that Friday.
There was only a small amount of white smoke out the exhaust, it's definitely not as much as you would expect.
The water seperator was replaced with a Racor one that had a plastic bowl on the bottom that was there when I bought the truck. I replaced the filter, but everything I have tried to get it started has been with an electric pump connected to the line feeding the fuel filter and still had no luck.
If the injection pump did fail, would it be normal to have it go from running fine to dead within 30 seconds? I am beginning to think that's what may have happened, but I also don't want to swap the pump just because it got air in the system and I don't know how to get it out and there was actually nothing else wrong.
I don't even know if I want to keep it anyway, I have put a lot of time and money into it but I don't think I have the ability to get the fuel system sorted out enough to be drivable, and if it's just a project to spend every weekend working on and never actually use I could get something that's less stressful and frustrating. I did drive it from near San Francisco to LA twice and it was fine then, but it's obviously far from being reliable enough to try that again.
There was only a small amount of white smoke out the exhaust, it's definitely not as much as you would expect.
The water seperator was replaced with a Racor one that had a plastic bowl on the bottom that was there when I bought the truck. I replaced the filter, but everything I have tried to get it started has been with an electric pump connected to the line feeding the fuel filter and still had no luck.
If the injection pump did fail, would it be normal to have it go from running fine to dead within 30 seconds? I am beginning to think that's what may have happened, but I also don't want to swap the pump just because it got air in the system and I don't know how to get it out and there was actually nothing else wrong.
I don't even know if I want to keep it anyway, I have put a lot of time and money into it but I don't think I have the ability to get the fuel system sorted out enough to be drivable, and if it's just a project to spend every weekend working on and never actually use I could get something that's less stressful and frustrating. I did drive it from near San Francisco to LA twice and it was fine then, but it's obviously far from being reliable enough to try that again.
Yes it is possible for an injection pump to fail like that. If by chance you picked up fuel that had water in it and it got past the filter it will seize up the pump. Not saying that has happened just that it can.
If you have an air compressor you could try blowing fuel from the tank forward. I know you say you have tried everything but block heater and return line, just making sure you hung a fuel source higher than the injection pump so you know you have a fuel source and no luck getting it to start correct?
If that is true than I would pull the small plate on the right side of the pump. Fuel should run out so have a rag there to catch it. Than turn the engine over enough make sure the shaft is turning inside. Probably will require a mirror to be able to see it. You can use a remote starter at the solenoid on the right fender. Make sure your are in park and wheels are blocked or brake sit for safety.
If you have an air compressor you could try blowing fuel from the tank forward. I know you say you have tried everything but block heater and return line, just making sure you hung a fuel source higher than the injection pump so you know you have a fuel source and no luck getting it to start correct?
If that is true than I would pull the small plate on the right side of the pump. Fuel should run out so have a rag there to catch it. Than turn the engine over enough make sure the shaft is turning inside. Probably will require a mirror to be able to see it. You can use a remote starter at the solenoid on the right fender. Make sure your are in park and wheels are blocked or brake sit for safety.
Brian VT
Full Access Member
I don't think it's common to have an IP just quit. I knew mine was getting tired because it didn't want to restart when the engine was warm. But it would start fine when cold.
I Doubt it died inside of any timeline you have seen.
Heat sink, they'll run when cooled off.
Air they'll run once purged.
Gummed up, often, not so much.
Hard to kill one on the highway cruising.
My friends 6.9 had 500k on it and multiple pumps( read 4+) your missing something.
There's a lot of old worn out junk out there being kept alive in Dixon, so I'd look there.
It's 30 minutes up the highway
Heat sink, they'll run when cooled off.
Air they'll run once purged.
Gummed up, often, not so much.
Hard to kill one on the highway cruising.
My friends 6.9 had 500k on it and multiple pumps( read 4+) your missing something.
There's a lot of old worn out junk out there being kept alive in Dixon, so I'd look there.
It's 30 minutes up the highway
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