6.9, 7.3 N/A, or 7.3 IDIT long block for hi-po build

[97idi]

hey guys i know iam coming into this a little late and iam quite excited to hear someone wants to start a new project! so i say go for what exactly u want, and starting with the base is the best place, now once u get to the fuel situation i think i have the solution to being able to have more than enough fuel at any rpm, if you want more info on that shoot me a pm i also have some other good ideas and i dont feel like having other people shoot them down so just pm me if your interested and good luck

 

[Black dawg]

I am at the final stages of building my 7.3 Turbo, all upgraded from N/A previous.
Engine failed from clogged piston oiler.
Old tired 7.3 with many lives before I purchased it in 1999.
since then like anyone here I try and make my truck better than originally designed, and so far I have learned alot and now this truck will ALL be built by me.
Nothing will be something someone else done.
With that said I get dizzy hearing about sleeving these blocks to 6.9 why?
The only problem that ALL diesels have is cavitation. a big problem using conventional coolants!
ALL of us here spend loads of money buying top dollar stuff for our rides, so that we can go as many miles before a failure.
Coolant and oil are the most important products we will use after everything else is done.
Why in the hell would anyone skimp here?
CAVITATION can be STOPPED! SCAs are simply a poor solution, you have to buy the stuff and monitor it like a drunk inmate in a jail cell, who has time for that?
There is a product that eliminates caviatation as long as you own your diesel.
I have used the product with great results that put conventional coolants to literal SHAME
this product has been discussed Im sure here and Im sure every ASE Mechanic will be flaming me for dishonest practices! But I will stand my ground!

I am tired of all the that people feed each other for personal gain

regular coolant last a few months and causes head gaskets to lift cause the head will be so hot coolant cannot enter it, so the head will distort and cause the gasket to blow out, PERIOD!
Then the ASE Mechanic comes in says some keerap like hey mister you didn't change your coolant and oil enough!

Fact is all the shelf products designed for ASE Mechanics to push onto thier poor customers last only so long in PERFECT CONDITIONS! needing constant monitoring simply from being a poor quality!

Ok with that out of the way now we can make some reliable IDI power and I will posting up my results along with pictures very soon how I made my IDI run.
Javier

ASEabuse what kind of filtration do you plan on running?

 

[idiabuse]

air filtration I use NanoFibre, Engine gets the same with full flow and bypass filters. and I will do UOA every 8/12000 miles to make sure everything is happy together.

before I took my truck apart I was getting a solid 20mpg city and 24 on the hwy and I have a dually.
I hope to get the same, I hope. lets see...
Javier

 

[janos1]

Don't try to open up the precup throats unless you have a comparater machine. They are very expensive so unless you can use one just skip that...

I do custom CNC machining. Couldn't I do it that way without having to worry?

 

[icanfixall]

Janos1... If you build a program then yes machining the throats on the precups will help. You will need to keep the opening profile about the same but open it up... How much is really just a guess. I would not go much more that around 70 thous wider and around 40 thous taller. Don't remove the lip thats on the inside. Thats there to create turbulance when it fires. It adis in mixing the fuel with the compressed air charge.

 

[dakotajeep]

Good Luck!!! Just seems that people have tried this and made rigs that were powerful yet unreliable. (referencing the 600HP rig in the Diesel Mag)

Thats the big quest. High HP and TQ IDI that remains relaible.....

Seems like these rigs have been around long enough that if this was possible it would have been done?

To me it seems that if you wanted a high HP diesel it would be easier and cheaper to build and install a Cummins.....which you already have experience with.....

But I am poor and would rather go the cheapest route!!! Which why I have an IDI......

Dont think Heath and others are being negative, they are trying to be realistic. It seems every few months or so another dude comes along and posts about a BIG IDI build that doesnt amount to much.....do it and prove it can be done: High power with reliability.

Thad

 

[janos1]

I am getting ready to tear into my spare motor and see whats going on in it. I saw a pic. of someones intake valve that got adjusted by the piston, it seems that there is plenty of room for a generous valve job and port work in these motors. (Factory wasn't too concerned with casting quality)
Here's another question for you. How low of a compression ratio can you go and still not affect the starting of the motor. That sound to me like the starting point for the basis of this thread. I would tend to try to start there with the 6.9l block with the turbo rods. Toss in a grid heater so the GP's can be gotten rid of. Get a moose pump (or two) open up the injectors (if possible) to get them to flow more. And boost the **** out of it with a wastegated turbo setup. And whatever else I can think up. Mabey some billet mains while I have the crank out too. Stuff a IC in front of it and hope for the best.

 

[janos1]

But I am poor and would rather go the cheapest route!!! Which why I have an IDI......





Thad

I think that you hit the nail on the head. We ought to be doing a budget build thread.

 

[GOOSE]

Ok, if we are going to skip the buildup fo the block and keeping the heads on to worry about fueling issues, what about an eight cyllinder in-line pump? I think "De-Stroked" did exactly that to get like 1500hp of fueling. If the rotary DB-2 is the weak link, find a way to put a p-pump on it. it would propably be off a large motor and put enough fuel out in near stock form.

 

[97idi]

Ok, if we are going to skip the buildup fo the block and keeping the heads on to worry about fueling issues, what about an eight cyllinder in-line pump? I think "De-Stroked" did exactly that to get like 1500hp of fueling. If the rotary DB-2 is the weak link, find a way to put a p-pump on it. it would propably be off a large motor and put enough fuel out in near stock form.

WITH A 1468IH INJECTION PUMP AND THE RIGHT FABRICATOR THAT CAN BE MADE LIKE A P7100, AND IDK ABOUT DESTROKED BUT I KNOW DOUBLE OVERTIME USES A INJECTION PUMP FROM A LOCAMOTIVE I HAVE LOOKED AND LOOKED AND LOOKED FOR ONE BUT CANT SEEM TO FIND ANYTHING, ANYONE WORK WITH TRAINS??

 

[kas83]

Or just get a 430cc head and rotor from CDS. Plenty of fueling for these goals.

I don't care about the fueling right now, and that's where my patience is wearing thin with everyone telling me that I can't do it. It needs to be a good, strong base first. And that's where the comments directed to Heath, Mel and a few others come from. They say it won't make any more power, based on STOCK fueling. I can play with the pump later, I want a bottom end that will hold together first. POWER AND RELIABILITY starts with a good foundation, and that's what this thread is about.

Obviously, there's no point in big power if I can't get fuel to it, but there's also no point in big fuel if the motor won't hold together with the power. I just wish that everyone would read into that part a little more.

So what would it take blockwise, reciprocating assembly wise, and valve train wise to keep it together and efficient? That's what I'm asking.

 

[97idi]

ITHINK ITS A GOOD IDEA TO START AT THE BOTTOM AND GO UP, I WOULD SAY WHAT EVER BLOCK U USE (6.9/7.3) GET IT CRYOED ALOND WITH THE ROATATING SETUP

 

[sassyrel]

ITHINK ITS A GOOD IDEA TO START AT THE BOTTOM AND GO UP, I WOULD SAY WHAT EVER BLOCK U USE (6.9/7.3) GET IT CRYOED ALOND WITH THE ROATATING SETUP

please turn off the caps lock--hard to read, and in computer speak,your shouting--thanks

 

[97idi]

please turn off the caps lock--hard to read, and in computer speak,your shouting--thanks

OK, But lets not get to far off topic

 

[seawalkersee]

How much do you cut down the valve guide? With the rods that are for the turbo engine, do you really think that 5mm is worth it for only, what 12psi or so? I mean, I would think that the factory would not wast the money throwing it at just rods, but there has to be a reason. I would go with the lighter rod an shave the top off of the pistons. If I recall correctly there was a guy on FTE who took .120 off the top. He ran higher turbo numbers and that was why. I just have to wonder how hard it got to be whil starting it.

SWS