Self oil burning

[CBRF3]

@CBRF3 I was seeing you mention of hard starts blow 40 with the glow plug delete along with the 12v nozzels, even with the air intake heater. What about also having a inline grid heater as well like one these two I found?

grid heater A
grid heater B

very interesting I have never seen those I may need to test something similar

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[1mouse3]

I got the psd rods back from getting cut, now for getting the pistons to fit in the block.

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Did also get new bushing but still need them honed.

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[CBRF3]

I got the psd rods back from getting cut, now for getting the pistons to fit in the block.

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Did also get new bushing but still need them honed.

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I just wanted to put this out there the power stroke rods really are not needed till you really get crazy stock turbo rods can handle around the 300+hp range and 650ftlb~ of torgue wheel and the N/A rods can handle 250ish HP and 550ftlbish wheel and take it like a champ keep in mind it takes alot of fuel and mods to get over 300hp to wheels and alot of $ and it isn't until you really push the envelope of 350ish HP and 700+ftlb of torgue at wheels theyre not needed as your cast pistons would be your main issue due to the fueling required to get this kind of power again our engines weakest link is the pistons our pistons because being cast tend to swell alot and pinch the rings in the ring lands often busting the rings or piston. There is a way around it there is a piston made that is useable I cannot remember what motor its it was designed for it was for marine use steal topped and armor lanced ( special anti scuff skirt coating and coating on piston top to reject carbon / heat ) and such it was a forged variant that would fit our motors with slight modification and complete rod piston balancing.

There is a very fine line we have to balance with our motors to keep them reliable and daily driver functional general accepted safe is 250-275 ish HP and 550-575 ftlb ish of torque at wheels is reliable beyond this your playing with a powder keg and a very short fuse so be carefull and don't go to far with your expectations nor spend more than your willing to lose quickly because all that time and money can go out window very fast if you go to far and the end result will happen usually very violently / costly . We also got to keep in mind as we up the fuel we put alot more heat / stress on the flame cups in our heads often causing them to crack and sometimes even worse fragment and again this is why the reliable power limit is so low on our motors you have to weigh the pros / cons and cost. I will say this though our old IDI's have one of best exhaust notes out there even when turboed and fact we can easily run alternative fuels is a huge plus combine the 2 you get a money saver and cool sounding truck and if done correctly a very reliable / functional one at that.

I will have to go thru all my old paperwork and such I built 3 engines using these pistons years ago and did the power stroke rods and 7.3 powerstroke rod / crank bearings I can also say these pistons were around 12-15 thousandths higher rod pin so they also decompressed the motors and they had variants to fit both 6.9 and 7.3 idi specs very closely a machine shop in Peoria Illinois had them in stock when was rebuilding a marine engine at the marina on a house boat that was docked there and I was shooting the crap with a machinest there about our old IDI's and he said wait a sec I remember something special you might be interested in then showed / told me about these. Needless to say I bought 3 sets on the spot they had in stock and told them when they got more let me know then ordered a few more sets which are currently somewhere at farm in all my clutter. Me and that machinest became friends and still are friends just have not talked to him in a while he is getting up there in age and getting a bit irritable / grumpy in short he no longer liked to chit chat and was way more into the harley riding hardcore side of things after his wife died of cancer he really went a bit over the edge and went pretty hardcore even at his age and well he became a bit more than I could handle / tolerate.

 

[1mouse3]

I just wanted to put this out there the power stroke rods really are not needed till you really get crazy stock turbo rods can handle around the 300+hp range and 650ftlb~ of torgue wheel and the N/A rods can handle 250ish HP and 550ftlbish wheel and take it like a champ keep in mind it takes alot of fuel and mods to get over 300hp to wheels and alot of $ and it isn't until you really push the envelope of 350ish HP and 700+ftlb of torgue at wheels theyre not needed

I went for the psd rod over the turbo one, because those could be found as a substitute. Around 300hp-350hp at the wheels would be nice to have, thats where was thinking to shot for. Would like enought power that the truck is not slow as molasses with 3:55 gear, 35 inch tires and the 1:1 of a t19. I do a lot of highway driving and the rear with what should be 4:10s is at a high rpm doing such. The d60 front diff I got is 3:55 and I like how the t19 shifts, so just the rear gears are all need to changed. With the twin hx35s with a 10cm turbine, would think that is enough cfm for the power.

As for fuel, saw this from @Thewespaul as a guide of how to max out the stock pump for now.

db2 tunning

Do like that he is using a ceramic sleeve for durability of the pump, so was thinking this pump down the road.

130cc db2

cast pistons would be your main issue due to the fueling required to get this kind of power again our engines weakest link is the pistons our pistons because being cast tend to swell alot and pinch the rings in the ring lands often busting the rings or piston

I will have to go thru all my old paperwork and such I built 3 engines using these pistons years ago and did the power stroke rods and 7.3 powerstroke rod / crank bearings I can also say these pistons were around 12-15 thousandths higher rod pin so they also decompressed the motors and they had variants to fit both 6.9 and 7.3 idi

So I did not get the best possible pistons, rockauto is not the best place to do returns. What would the expected life spain be if I run what I have with the target of just over 300hp at the wheel?

 

[CBRF3]

I went for the psd rod over the turbo one, because those could be found as a substitute. Around 300hp-350hp at the wheels would be nice to have, thats where was thinking to shot for. Would like enought power that the truck is not slow as molasses with 3:55 gear, 35 inch tires and the 1:1 of a t19. I do a lot of highway driving and the rear with what should be 4:10s is at a high rpm doing such. The d60 front diff I got is 3:55 and I like how the t19 shifts, so just the rear gears are all need to changed. With the twin hx35s with a 10cm turbine, would think that is enough cfm for the power.

As for fuel, saw this from @Thewespaul as a guide of how to max out the stock pump for now.

db2 tunning

Do like that he is using a ceramic sleeve for durability of the pump, so was thinking this pump down the road.

130cc db2





So I did not get the best possible pistons, rockauto is not the best place to do returns. What would the expected life spain be if I run what I have with the target of just over 300hp at the wheel?

300hp ( this is more actually around 350-375 hp crank which is pretty ludicrous for daily lets not even go into the 350WHP ) at wheels is really outside of reliable safe boundaries and is like trying to run a motor on nitrous daily 75% of time on nitrous again 250-275 WHP is about limit for daily safe driveable and even that is alot of fuel to get there meaning a very high piston temp under load aka riding on a razors edge for many reasons I have already pointed out a 300-350 WHP expectation for daily driver is not exactly what I would call a good goal when expect reliability and longevity even 250-275 whp in my eyes is a bit high and with the gear ratios and large tires you plan your going to be loading that motor alot making it work for its lunch if you get my point so PLZ understand your playing in a dangerous sand box with those goals and well your rolling almost loaded dice.

I myself would target more on the torque side of things like a cam designed for more torque and then work on decompressing the motor just enough to get to 20-25 psi of boost intercooled of course and well dual HX35's I believe your going to have a ton of turbo lag meaning the motor will be way outside of its torque / power range before the turbos light off a single HX40 turbo is a bit large and has substantial turbo lag now if you did a single HX40 super or something similar to what turbo labs america offers you likely will not have crazy back pressure and good spool up and thus good EGT temps along with good turbine drive pressures and again even this is overkill you want to daily drive this thing and want it usable not wait till are about to shift gears before the turbo kicks in.

I have been there and done this with HX40 / HX50 and many other turbos HX40 flow rate is a bit overkill for our motors full tilt with all the fuel we would ever want to give them safely remember a good HX35 is like 40%-60% more CFM flow than the stock turbos designed for our motors and a good stock upgrade is the T04Z turbos for the stock turbo and flows substantially more than stock and is still much lower than the single HX35 so PLZ think this thru if you expect to drive this truck vs melt the pistons before the turbo's even lights off ( aka why dual HX35's I believe is a very bad idea ) which is a big issue with our motors honestly.

indirect injection high compression engines are not meant for high horsepower theyre meant for reliability and to be able to run questionable fuel aka designed to not be finicky about fuel quality basically to get these engines to do crazy HP numbers and such you would have to literally redesign most of the motor including the heads and pistons mainly piston type / design along with the flame cup / head gasket setup and basically convert to a more direct injected setup.

The point is our motors produce around 170-190 hp at crank thats 130-150 WHP so wanting 300-350 WHP is asking alot then wanting daily driver reliable is a tough pill to swallow and is going to be a expensive vehicle to keep on road or even put on road chances are the motor will end up scattered across the pavement shortly after built and put on road higher HP 6.9 / 7.3 IDI's take special driving habits to keep them together and even then its sketchy. The way you do throttle acceleration / deceleration need to be slow and easy and such otherwise they go boom and scatter themselfs across pavement if you mash throttle then rapidly release and boost just peaks well you run into catastrophic failures due to excessive pressures internally the motor can only inhale so much air / pressure till things let go. The reason I know is I have blown and well repositioned to say it politely intake gaskets /headgaskets / piston rings and valve guide seals yes I ran enough boost I lifted the valve guide seals on intake side had boost going into valve cover past valve stem itself because it wouldn't let oil get into the valve guide area it wiped out the guides and had intake gasket hanging into valley pan area along with under edge of valve cover because I let off throttle to fast instead of doing so slowly. I know been there and done that I have pushed the limits and my wallet felt it as did my back/arms and hands and I learned quickly because of it.

 

[1mouse3]

well dual HX35's I believe your going to have a ton of turbo lag meaning the motor will be way outside of its torque / power range before the turbos light off a single HX40 turbo is a bit large and has substantial turbo lag now

These hx35s with the 10cm turbine housing would spoll a hair slower than a hy35 or hx32, but not as slow as a hx35 with the ome 12cm housing. Spec them to be close to the twin t04e turbos @IDIoit is running in his manchero, the turbin would be only slightly bigger but compressor is equal.

manchero

300hp at wheels is really outside of reliable safe boundaries and is like trying to run a motor on nitrous daily again 250-275 WHP is about limit for daily safe driveable and even that is alot of fuel to get there meaning a very high piston temp under load aka riding on a razors edge for many reasons I have already pointed out a 300 WHP expectation for daily driver is not exactly what I would call a good goal when expect reliability and longevity even 250-275 hp in my eyes is a bit high and with the gear ratios and large tires you plan your going to be loading that motor alot making it work for its lunch if you get my point so PLZ understand your playing in a dangerous sand box with those goals and well your rolling almost loaded dice.

Lowering the compression with glow plug deleat not enoght that there will still be thermal expansion in play against the pistons? So should not try to push past 300hp, even if push the compression down further with shims? Will keep that in mind and think on it.

shims

 

[CBRF3]

These hx35s with the 10cm turbine housing would spoll a hair slower than a hy35 or hx32, but not as slow as a hx35 with the ome 12cm housing. Spec them to be close to the twin t04e turbos @IDIoit is running in his manchero, the turbin would be only slightly bigger but compressor is equal.

manchero



Lowering the compression with glow plug deleat not enoght that there will still be thermal expansion in play against the pistons? So should not try to push past 300hp, even if push the compression down further with shims? Will keep that in mind and think on it.

shims

I also just thought about this but a 10cm housing that means your going to have alot of back pressure especially if you go to around 1800rpm or more according to my math you will have enough back pressure your drive pressures will be way outside spec of the turbo overdriving the turbine and causing super high EGT's 10cm housing is rated about 2.8l gaser and 1.8l or so of diesel 7.3l cut in half is 3.65l diesel you are trying to fit thru that 10cm housing 12cm is smallest I would go even then your dealing with alot of backpressure above around 2200rpm.

The issue isn't just about the turbo's themselfs its about how much heat it will take to drive 2 vs 1 fun fact heat is what drives turbo's and the reason they work is they scavenge waste heat and convert it to positive pressure feeding the entire chain of events otherwise the turbo would be null and void aka same amount of air would go in as came out making 0 boost and heat is our achilles heel on our motors if the turbo waits to late to light off we then have a crazy amount of high EGT's and thus high piston temps. also the higher you let RPM's go up before the turbo comes on the more amplified the EGT's become once you start stepping out of our power curve of around 1200rpm-2000rpm you run into the motor dumping more and more heat due to lower efficiency aka more ignited fuel just spit out exhaust manifold vs being burned in a complete mix to become power the increased EGT's due to this then causes a chain reaction piston top temps spike / cylinder head temps spike / cylinder wall temps spike / oil temps spike then coolant temps also spike pretty well in that order. The issue is to do 300WHP you will need to massively reduce the compression ratio to point will be crazy hard to start also would have alot of other issues like cylinder glazing and cylinder wash when idling or until boost comes on this means unless were going to be on boost 90% of time your just killing the motor and making it almost undriveable there is much more to things than I could easily explain. look up issues with our motors and low compression smoking / oil usage and well hard starting all are issues from low compression not including amplified wear as i said before its a fine line you need to walk for a daily driver.

 

[1mouse3]

The way you do throttle acceleration / deceleration need to be slow and easy and such otherwise they go boom and scatter themselfs across pavement if you mash throttle then rapidly release and boost just peaks well you run into catastrophic failures due to excessive pressures internally the motor can only inhale so much air / pressure till things let go.

Fair point, I would have to change how I drive and not treat it like the f100.

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[CBRF3]

Fair point, I would have to change how I drive and not treat it like the f100.

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a diesel in general should not be driven like a gasser as they are fundamentally different designs and for different intentions a diesel is designed for torque / efficiency and well to do work a gaser is more designed for acceleration and ease of use to be blunt a diesel vehicle should never be driven like a gaser slow and easy should be the moto with a diesel and well a gaser it does much less damage to drive them more aggresivelly just facts and characteristics of theyre designs / purpose.

 

[1mouse3]

the issue isn't about the turbo's themselfs its about how much heat it will take to drive 2 vs 1 heat is our achilles heel on our motors if the turbo waits to late to light off we then have a crazy amount of high EGT's and thus high piston temps. also the higher you let RPM's go up before the turbo comes on the more amplified the EGT's become once you start stepping out of our power curve of around 1200rpm-2000rpm you run into the motor dumping more and more heat due to lower efficiency aka more fuel just spit out exhaust vs being burned to become power the increased EGT's due to this then causes a chain reaction piston top temps spike / cylinder head temps spike / cylinder wall temps spike / oil temps spike then coolant temps also spike pretty well in that order. The issue is to do 300WHP you will need to massively reduce the compression ratio to point will be crazy hard to start also would have alot of other issues like cylinder glazing and cylinder wash when idling or until boost comes on this means unless were going to be on boost 90% of time your just killing the motor and making it almost undriveable there is much more to things than I could easily explain. look up issues with our motors and low compression smoking / oil usage and well hard starting all are issues from low compression not including amplified wear as i said before its a fine line you need to walk for a daily driver.

I chose these over a single lager turbo for ease of service, working on duramax trucks made dislike them in the back. Also would think that having them closer to heat would aid in spool. This is another person that went with the t04e but the 57 trim instead of the 54 trim. These two builds are what made me think that the hx35 with the 10cm turbine would match fine. @94idift was braking flex plates with the instant spool he had.

I dont no cause i have no were to drive it that i can take it over like 50. But before with the other turbos if i put it in second and held the brake and tried to do a boosted launch it would not build any boost but now with these i can launch at like 10psi. As far as wasgates go they are soposed to have waste gated housing but i made plates that go on the back with 3'' v bands so they dont have wastegates.

This my thoughs on it

The compressor on the hx35/he300 at 54/78 is close to the 50 trim t04e, that had a good map and within ballpark of the other two. The turbine housing on the hx35w I have was 12cm, that is around 0.80 A/R and was too big compared to the t04e's that where found to work. In deliberation of what could be found at what cost, settled on a 10cm housing I found that is close to 0.65 A/R. This is in ballpark of know working turbos, the turbine wheel is 5mm bigger tho. The t04e's t3 turbine is 65/55 and the hx35/he300 is at 70/60, this should give a slightly slower spool. So might work out better since @94idift was having issues braking flex plates.

 

[CBRF3]

I chose these over a single lager turbo for ease of service, working on duramax trucks made dislike them in the back. Also would think that having them closer to heat would aid in spool. This is another person that went with the t04e but the 57 trim instead of the 54 trim. These two builds are what made me think that the hx35 with the 10cm turbine would match fine. @94odoft was braking flex plates with the instant spool he had.



This my thoughs on it

I think 12cm is smallest i would go for dual turbo's because the amount of exhaust that flows out above 1800rpm is going to cause crazy back pressure / turbine drive poressures and high EGT's even 12cm according to the math is a bit small and puts thihings out to lunch above 2200rpm diesel turbine housing sizing and turbo sizing is much different than gasser turbo sizing figure hp to turbo size and nearly double it a 400hp gasser turbo will only do around 200hp or so on a diesel and well then you got to factor in the amount of exhaust CFM is way more than that of a gasser.

anytime you hear instant spool on a turbo on a diesel it usually means high back pressure and specifically high back pressure is bad on our motors as it causes EGT's to go crazy I target a spool up RPM around 1200-1400 rpm's to be best all around that is street driveable anything that spools under this is a low speed low rpm power house that chokes the motor second you get revved up aka get driving down road and then you deal with high EGT's and literally struggle to run interstate speeds and such without riding the line on EGT's and having to literally baby sit the pyrometer 24/7 making for issues if try to pass anyone or climb a hill or anything due to massive spikes in EGT's with slightest attempt to give it more fuel / power.

The t04E is pretty well the stock turbo these motors came with and is not very good at getting much more power than stock and nowhere near your goals so going for turbos with similar turbine housing sizes for spool up is insanity given amount of fuel your are going to have to feed into this setup to get to your goals dual HX35's with 10cm housings is like asking your motor to commit suicide if you get my meaning.

I think a single turbo is best option and if you go with something like R&D idi's setup is simple to maintain and well designed.

R&D Hotside Turbocharger Kit (Formerly Stage 1) | R&D IDI PERFORMANCE

Includes Exhaust Manifolds, Up-Pipes, Pedestal (T3 and T4 mounting patterns), Oil lines (supply and return).

idiperformance.com

 

[1mouse3]

a diesel in general should not be driven like a gasser as they are fundamentally different designs and for different intentions a diesel is designed for torque / efficiency and well to do work a gaser is more designed for acceleration and ease of use to be blunt a diesel vehicle should never be driven like a gaser slow and easy should be the moto with a diesel and well a gaser it does much less damage to drive them more aggresivelly just facts and characteristics of theyre designs / purpose.

So should reevaluate thought, go for more gears over more power to compensate for whats on the table. Not sure on how a zf5 will shift and have found several other aluminum overdrive transmision to be a sloppy mess, there are short throw shiters that may clean it up some. Thing is dont see many for sale and last I saw was ealry last year. I dont see that f100 as a valid daily driver, its more a toy to me. The power that fe has is agresive with its gear ratio, with a spool it just wants to play. I do see your point in that a gasser is happy to be sent to 4000 rpm wile a diesel would like to work below 2500 rpm.

 

[1mouse3]

anytime you hear instant spool on a turbo on a diesel it usually means high back pressure and specifically high back pressure is bad on our motors as it causes EGT's to go crazy I target a spool up RPM around 1200-1400 rpm's to be best all around that is street driveable anything that spools under this is a low speed low rpm power house that chokes the motor second you get revved up aka get driving down road and then you deal with high EGT's and literally struggle to run interstate speeds and such without riding the line on EGT's and having to literally baby sit the pyrometer 24/7 making for issues if try to pass anyone or climb a hill or anything due to massive spikes in EGT's with slightest attempt to give it more fuel / power.

The t04E is pretty well the stock turbo these motors came with and is not very good at getting much more power than stock and nowhere near your goals so going for turbos with similar turbine housing sizes for spool up is insanity given amount of fuel your are going to have to feed into this setup to get to your goals dual HX35's with 10cm housings is like asking your motor to commit suicide if you get my meaning.

I went with the forth the hx35 since had one. Was thinking that even tho the 10cm housing would match the t04e in area for the turbine, the slight larger turbine wheel of the hx35 would slow the spool some. Would keep that in mind and could still switch them for the 12cm ones if is a issue, that is if see boost well below 1200 rpm.

R&D Hotside Turbocharger Kit (Formerly Stage 1) | R&D IDI PERFORMANCE​

Back By Popular Demand.

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That did cross my mine but I think he is in middle of a move, so not sure on restock.


I have got a fair ways in getting manifolds made

 

[CBRF3]

I went with the forth the hx35 since had one. Was thinking that even tho the 10cm housing would match the t04e in area for the turbine, the slight larger turbine wheel of the hx35 would slow the spool some. Would keep that in mind and could still switch them for the 12cm ones if is a issue, that is if see boost well below 1200 rpm.




That did cross my mine but I think he is in middle of a move, so not sure on restock.


I have got a fair ways in getting manifolds made

The issue with the 10cm vs 12cm is in the radius where it enters the turbine is to small to flow the exhaust at the higher RPMs and reason the factory turbos struggle with high back pressure / turbine drive pressure this is where high EGT's occur not because of lack of fuel / air on intake side but the fight to get exhaust out of the motor and your motor will be inhaling hot exhaust back into motor and unable to get exhaust out as for transmission I understand your like of the 4 speed its a good trans the issue is not really that the trans is a bad choice its the amount of load your wanting to force the motor to fight against all the time in short 3.55 gears and 35 inch tires is alot of load its doable and has been done alot. I just find your RPM's will climb so slow that your going to make your engine fight itself I think 3.73 gears myself is a better ratio but then you sacrifice your highway gearing. I like the ZF5 for the bigblock gassers to be best just need to drill them to fit our motors and to be honest ZF5 transmissions are not to bad again we are talking diesel motor not gasser you need to remember shifting it like you do your gasser will kill your diesel doing it like you do your gasser turned up as far as your want will scatter your motor across a highway somewhere in seconds.

300WHP+ goal is set to kill and is like if you were riding a time bomb you will have to always be very carefull and pay very close attention and be prepared everytime you drive it to have to have it towed home and start from scratch with almost a total loss been there done this several times and trust me it hurts financially and physically did I forget mentally but is the facts your forcing the motor way outside of design and sounds as if are planning to drive it like you stole it lol yet want daily driver reliability so many factors need taken into account your wanting highway speed driveability yet race car acceleration / power and keep the 4 speed and your wanting instant spool on turbo along with daily driver reliability.

I have to say with your setup so far I see a beast on paper but in practical use nothing much and a heavily choked exhaust above 1800rpm with crazy high EGT's causing this setup to hardly be driveable 3.55 and 35 inch tires is going to accelerate slow 10cm exhaust housings will spool fast but will choke second you get to highway speeds due to backpressure then EGT's go thru roof.

3.55 gears and 32-33 inch tires would be better but 3.73 gears and 35 inch tires is more acceptable in my eyes for what you want but the 4 speed will then be limiting factor of highway driveability remember you dont have to use the 5th gear till are on highway so this means you can use the ZF5 and get best of both worlds with 3.73 gears and 35's as for turbo housings 12cm should spool around the 1200rpm-1400rpm happy spot and be good till around 2200rpm-2400rpm 14cm housing will light off around the 1400rpm-1600rpm area and be good upto around 2400rpm-2600rpm our torque peaks around 1400rpm-1600rpm HP peaks around 2600rpm-2800rpm so do the math where you want to keep your turbo to spool and peak out at also spool is affected heavily on our motors by fueling aka heat so a stock injection pump maxxed will not spool 2 turbos hardly even with 12cm housings so alot more to factor in than just housing size and such amount of fuel you can get into cylinder and heat you can generate to drive turbos.

PLZ do not take it wrong way I am simply trying to help you understand where I see flaws in your plans and why before you make the mistakes a hard reality that kills the entire thing and you get a sour taste in your mouth these motors are awesome and my fav engines and got best exhaust sound I think but they have limits in theyre design that are literally hard limits that are not easily gotten past or simply are a limit from any direction you come at it.

Most of the issues you will have / find are well known facts that others have spent tons of money / time to get around most of time finding the reality is just its a limit that cannot be surpassed reliably yes you can set them to kill but its a short fused powder keg and you have to just accept that also acceptance of facts driving one of these hopped up takes special driving habits / maintenance / routine otherwise the powder kegs fuse gets much shorter along with burns faster if you get my point.

 

[1mouse3]

I also just thought about this but a 10cm housing that means your going to have alot of back pressure especially if you go to around 1800rpm or more according to my math you will have enough back pressure your drive pressures will be way outside spec of the turbo overdriving the turbine and causing super high EGT's 10cm housing is rated about 2.8l gaser and 1.8l or so of diesel 7.3l cut in half is 3.65l diesel you are trying to fit thru that 10cm housing 12cm is smallest I would go even then your dealing with alot of backpressure above around 2200rpm.

I dont quite understand the data here, this is what I found on holset cm to a/r. This is what made me think the turbine I chose would match close to the t04e but be slightly bigger do to wheel size, but within ballpark.


holset

As said, A/R vs CM2 totally depends on the turbine size, and the above is only about right for TD04 sort of size turbines.

In REALITY, it's more like THIS...
HE221W- 6cm- 0.47, 8cm- 0.60, 9cm- 0.68
HX35- 16cm- 0.98, 14cm- 0.90, 12cm- 0.80, 10cm- 0.65

HX40- 18cm- 1.05, 16cm- 0.92, 14cm- 0.85

HX52- 16cm- 0.85, 13cm- 0.73, 11cm- 0.60
HX55- 28cm- 1.42, 25cm- 1.26, 19cm- 0.96, 16cm- 0.78, 14cm- 0.71, 12cm- 0.62

Not finding much use of the 10cm hx35 since is a rare unit. Did find this post that is saying its a slight bit big for a 3.0l diesel.

om606

Turbos: I have installed and put 3k miles on a pretty cool compound turbo setup. I had originally put in a 10cm housing HX-35 Holset. It worked, but spooled later than I'd like.

As for the hx35 with the 12cm housing, ran accrost several post of it being bit big for a 3.9l diesel.

4bt

I can help as I have lots of experience with the 4bt's. The 3200 spring is totally fine with your stg 2 4bt cam. Cam doesn't make any more power past 3200 anyways.
As myother4x4 pointed out, the hx35 turbo is the wrong turbo to be running on any 4bt but a stout p-pumped 4bt. No amount of playing with your starwheel or timing will make you happy with that turbo. Trust me on this.

You should be running a Super HX30W for your set-up. It will spool much quicker & even lower your egt's over the hx35. The Super HX30W needs a special oil feed line kit to hook up to the turbo, as it doesn't have a threaded inlet like all the rest of the turbo's, but short of that, everything else like the compressor outlet v-band & the exhaust v-band with hook right up to your existing set-up.
You will have to re-tune your starwheel after the turbo change.

So if one hx35 with 10cm is close to a single t04e, and that t04e is choked at stock power. I would think that ether would be good for half the displacement.

The t04E is pretty well the stock turbo these motors came with and is not very good at getting much more power than stock and nowhere near your goals so going for turbos with similar turbine housing sizes for spool up is insanity given amount of fuel your are going to have to feed into this setup to get to your goals dual HX35's with 10cm housings is like asking your motor to commit suicide if you get my meaning.