Glowshift Gauges?

[chillman88]

Yes pyrometers are expensive, but keep in mind an inaccurate pyrometer is worse than no pyrometer at all. If it's reading low and you're counting on it being accurate, it will end badly.

Quite frankly that's why I haven't installed one yet. I know I need one, but I'm going to wait until I get a good reliable one that I can trust.

 

[Clb]

Just my .02 here..
Remember the point of gauges is to monitor conditions on the fly.
Being able to not take your eyes off the road is/should be top of the list.
Notice the orentation on mine?
When the needles are at 12:00
it shows "redline" time for action.
It allows just a glance to see an ISSUE...
ANY gauge beats none!
My glow pyro would not stay 1 color nor act smoothly from the box.
Carry on

 

[Mattc2066]

You must be registered for see images attach

It’s an $8 ABS project box I got off Amazon.

What stereo deck is that?! I have been trying to find one that wont cover the A/C controls. can you give me a model number?

 

[TNBrett]

What stereo deck is that?! I have been trying to find one that wont cover the A/C controls. can you give me a model number?

It’s a Jensen Car910x. I wanted something with a bigger screen where I didn’t have to cut up the dash for a double Din. I also wanted SiriusXM and a external microphone for hands free phone calls. I’m pretty happy with it.

 

[264WSM]

I have had my GlowShift gauges for almost 2 years with no issues. I would get a 30PSI or 20 PSI Boost gauge as you won't see over 12psi, even on a hot rodded IDI engine. I am running the 60 psi on a PSD and I'm gonna change it to the 30 psi. I'll put the 60 psi in my Western Star as that can make 48 lbs.
Once installed - BELIEVE your gauges. My brother installed an AutoMeter set and said his EGT had to be wrong because it is always around 1200 and 1500 when towing. He found out the hard way that the gauge was right! If something gets out of line - LIFT your right foot!!! There is no shame in getting to the top of the hill 45 seconds later. It is important that you get to the top of the hill and are not parked on the side of the road!!

 

[Mattc2066]

I got a pleasant surprise while i was digging around under the hood today. The previous owner has already installed an EGT, oil pressure, and boost guage. He must have kept the guages for another vehicle as the likes and wires are all neatly wrapped and zip tied to the firewall. That makes life alot easier and cheaper. Apon cleaning the inside up i also noticed holes drilled in the dash where he had the guages mounted. Thanks old man

 

[miles1400]

i had glowshift gauges in my idi, got them on a black friday sale and had them for 6 months untill the truck got wrecked. i had pre turbo egt, oil pressure and boost. i never had problems with them. the hottest i ever got the egts was 800F, Banks turbo kit, ip turned up 2 or 3 flats. i dont know if that is high or low. someone will probaly chime in on it

 

[264WSM]

After turbo EGT should be under 1100*F (1000*F if located more that 12" down from the turbo)..
Before turbo should never see over 1300*F

 

[Mattc2066]

After turbo EGT should be under 1100*F (1000*F if located more that 12" down from the turbo)..
Before turbo should never see over 1300*F

The probe is installed about 3 inches before the turbo. I personally would have done it right after the turbo but its already there. So i should be looking for it to be below 1300?

 

[264WSM]

Yup, if before the turbo, don't let it go over 1300F.

If you are seeing close to or over 1300 regularly = you are over fueled. Turn your fuel back to keep that from happening. It will be hotter under a load. If you are seeing 1300F while unladen = you are VERY over fueled!!
Temps will vary based on altitude too. At sea level you might be good, then at 5000' you will be over fueled. That's when you control the temps with your right foot. Pull back a little and bring your RPMs up (drop a gear). Maintaining higher RPMs will keep the EGTs cooler. Just don't try to accelerate when you drop the gear. Maintain as high of RPM and as low as EGT as possible. When EGTs get too high - drop another gear and repeat. Don't worry about getting to the top of the hill, you'll get there. The speedo is the last gauge I look at when climbing a hill. Pyro (EGT), Tach (RPM), Coolant temp and in that order. If it is summer time I will look at engine oil temp, diff temp, and if I'm real heavy, trans temp.

 

[aggiediesel01]

I really like that GlowShift offers a specific pillar pod for the '91 and older trucks up to 4 gauges on the pillar. I don't think anyone else offers one at all and it so nice to actually have one that fits rather than trying to mash the OBS one into place on the older pillars. I don't know anything about their gauges but I will say that my '97 came from it's PO with autometer gauges that were installed shortly after the truck was new and the EGT finally failed on me about 6 years ago so it lived about 15yrs. I replaced them with Isspro because I bought Isspro for our two turbo IDIs back in 2000 and those gauges are still going even with being removed and reinstalled several times over the years. It's likely these trucks aren't a 20yr investment anymore and there's alot to be said for that but it was for me twenty years ago and I'm happy with how it's turned out. I've also bought several old used Banks and ATS kits over the years, those kits came with Isspro Pyros and they each still worked when I got them.

 

[Mattc2066]

Yup, if before the turbo, don't let it go over 1300F.

If you are seeing close to or over 1300 regularly = you are over fueled. Turn your fuel back to keep that from happening. It will be hotter under a load. If you are seeing 1300F while unladen = you are VERY over fueled!!
Temps will vary based on altitude too. At sea level you might be good, then at 5000' you will be over fueled. That's when you control the temps with your right foot. Pull back a little and bring your RPMs up (drop a gear). Maintaining higher RPMs will keep the EGTs cooler. Just don't try to accelerate when you drop the gear. Maintain as high of RPM and as low as EGT as possible. When EGTs get too high - drop another gear and repeat. Don't worry about getting to the top of the hill, you'll get there. The speedo is the last gauge I look at when climbing a hill. Pyro (EGT), Tach (RPM), Coolant temp and in that order. If it is summer time I will look at engine oil temp, diff temp, and if I'm real heavy, trans temp.

Thank you for the info. I may actually go with a ISSPRO pyro juat to be safe but all others i will just use gliwshift. I will never be towing with this truck, its a weld rig for me. The most it will ever have on it is 2000 lbs and will regularly have less than 1200 lbs on it from day to day. So i dont think it will ever reach 1300.

 

[264WSM]

You'll want to get a gauge that allows your normal reading to be at 60%. I'll guess that 900* will be a normal unladen reading, so a gauge with a 1600* max reading would be good. Also the larger the sweep, the easier it is to read the gauge. A 270* sweep is easier than a 180* sweep

 

[Mattc2066]

You'll want to get a gauge that allows your normal reading to be at 60%. I'll guess that 900* will be a normal unladen reading, so a gauge with a 1600* max reading would be good. Also the larger the sweep, the easier it is to read the gauge. A 270* sweep is easier than a 180* sweep

question, I have been reading that the IDI should never see over 1050 EGT. so where does the 1300 come from?

 

[Brian VT]

I went to their site and it looks like they don't have a tachometer for a 1987 diesel (says 10,000 rpm gas only).