Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

[Thewespaul]

Pulled the engine out a couple months ago, bottom end was pretty much scattered, all the rods were bent but no bearing or valve damage.

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If I haven’t mentioned it already in this thread I plan on going with a different turbo configuration and it happened that my current turbo setup is for grabs.
I want to sell it complete with the intercooler setup and turbo kit, the aluminum has been roughed up from being in a couple engines now but everything functions fine, it’ll come with all new clamps since it’s got a mix-matched set on it now. I’ll take $1000 for it without a turbo or downpipe, I can also supply a turbo, downpipe and gasket kit to make it a turn key kit to install. I’ll snag some pictures of it soon but I’m sure there’s plenty of pictures in this thread already.

 

[rewbrooks50]

Pulled the engine out a couple months ago, bottom end was pretty much scattered, all the rods were bent but no bearing or valve damage.

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If I haven’t mentioned it already in this thread I plan on going with a different turbo configuration and it happened that my current turbo setup is for grabs.
I want to sell it complete with the intercooler setup and turbo kit, the aluminum has been roughed up from being in a couple engines now but everything functions fine, it’ll come with all new clamps since it’s got a mix-matched set on it now. I’ll take $1000 for it without a turbo or downpipe, I can also supply a turbo, downpipe and gasket kit to make it a turn key kit to install. I’ll snag some pictures of it soon but I’m sure there’s plenty of pictures in this thread already.

Interested for my F350 idiot, stock

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[IDIBRONCO]

If I haven’t mentioned it already in this thread I plan on going with a different turbo configuration and it happened that my current turbo setup is for grabs.

Is this the two turbo setup?

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

Pulled the engine out a couple months ago, bottom end was pretty much scattered, all the rods were bent but no bearing or valve damage.

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If I haven’t mentioned it already in this thread I plan on going with a different turbo configuration and it happened that my current turbo setup is for grabs.
I want to sell it complete with the intercooler setup and turbo kit, the aluminum has been roughed up from being in a couple engines now but everything functions fine, it’ll come with all new clamps since it’s got a mix-matched set on it now. I’ll take $1000 for it without a turbo or downpipe, I can also supply a turbo, downpipe and gasket kit to make it a turn key kit to install. I’ll snag some pictures of it soon but I’m sure there’s plenty of pictures in this thread already.

Its never good when clean up is dumping a tote full of pistols and related parts

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What's even worse is when the oil pan is full of oily coolant. That stuff takes a LONG time to drain and sure doesn't seem to come off as easily as plain oil does. I wonder if Wes had that to deal with too?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Its never good when clean up is dumping a tote full of pistols and related parts

Amen. Or pistons!

 

[tjsea]

As sad as it is something like this can be a major learning time. You said the bearings and valves were good so that means the bearings can hold quite a bit of power and the valves didn't seem to float then. So the real question is what was the weak link? I see the piston is broke out at the wrist pin. Did the piston fail first and send shrapnel throughout or was something else the cause. I'm just curious to see where the engine platform is in need of strengthening.

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[Booyah45828]

I think it's the connecting rod. TIDI rods are stronger, and the 7.3 powerstroke rods are stronger yet.

I imagine they continued to strengthen them for a reason, like failure analysis, and not because they felt like it.

 

[Thewespaul]

Sorry for not having more data and tear down pics, I lost a phone that tumbled off the mill stand and most the pictures from when we did the tear down. The rods were definitely origin of the failure, the one with the broken piston was from the rod getting jammed up sideways in the bore and piston coming apart.
This engine definitely floated valves with the compounds, I could feel the power going away around 3k and the exhaust note change in the higher rpms, the longer I held the power the more it would roll over as the larger turbo spooled more, shorter bursts it was fine and would move out.

@3:40

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I think at that point the rods were already bent and there was enough piston to valve clearance to not make imprints, but no broken valve springs or valves despite having stock springs and 50+ psi with the compounds.

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Remember this was the “temporary” junkyard 88 na 7.3 originally out of my bullnose project, na rods are pretty much living a temporary existence at this power level.

I don’t think there is significant gains going from the idit rod to the psd rod especially with having to machine the big end down for the smaller bearing. They are both the same material and forged, and very similarly sized. Almost like the psd forged rod was designed after the idit rods...

Plan going forward is to build an idit in the spring and not a junkyard engine, we want to see how far the turbo rods can go. We are hoping that the bullnose project with the .450 pump and built idit lasts well in the 500-550 range on fuel only, and I can take my idit up to failure with a .550 rotor I am developing that will bring the rotary pumps into 13mm p pump territory, then I think Carrillo rods will be the next step once we find the reliable limit of the idit rods, then I’d expect pistons to become the weak link especially if I’m spraying it.

The crank and block is plenty strong IMO especially compared to the psd blocks and cranks, guys are using factory forged cranks in powerstroke’s in 7 second race trucks like Brian gray’s obs, so I don’t see that becoming a failure point without external issues like an imbalance or casting problem. Time will tell.

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

50+ psi with the compounds.

What I don't see that with my 6.0 also do you think a lower compression would help with keeping one of these together and reliable at them boost levels

 

[david85]

What does it take to make the PSD rods work on an IDI? I'm mostly curious because they will be easier to find and might be less expensive going forward.

 

[Thewespaul]

For a daily driver I don’t think lower compression is a good option, don’t really want an ether baby and I think you loose a good bit of power potential with lower comp. I plan to limit torque with my charger sizing to keep power out of lower rpm range.

To use psd rods you just need to machine the big end for the the thinner idit bearing, and resize the small end for the wrist pin.

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

10-4. I figured how did you get the heads to seal

 

[IDIBRONCO]

then I’d expect pistons to become the weak link especially if I’m spraying it.

Or overspraying it? Man, that truck sure shifted into 3rd gear nicely in that first video. At least it did as far as I watched it. Maybe it's because you weren't trying to drag race it?

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

10-4. I figured . but how did you get the heads to seal