Turbo rods and pistons

[jwsfarrier]

I would like to run factory turbo rods and pistons in my n/a block. Will I need a different harmonic balancer and flywheel? i heard they used a differnt balancer and flywheel on the factory IDIT motor .I'm planning on having the entire rotating assembly balanced as well. Thanks!

 

[riphip]

Yes you will. Someone will come in with the part Numbers.

 

[jwsfarrier]

much appreciated!

 

[Thewespaul]

You can use your existing flywheel and balancer if your machinist balances them with the rotating assembly, many IDIT upgraded engines running like this.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You can use your existing flywheel and balancer if your machinist balances them with the rotating assembly, many IDIT upgraded engines running like this.

In my opinion, this is the best way to go. That way you don't have to try to find the rare Turbo parts.

 

[aggiediesel01]

Part numbers are in the "coffee table" book. From this post here:

capture taken from the "93 94 7.3 IDI Turbocharged Diesel Engine" coffee table book;
https://www.forddoctorsdts.com/coffeetablebooks.html/


https://www.oilburners.net/attachments/capture-jpg.49823/

 

[jwsfarrier]

Thanks you guys. The machinist I talked with mentioned modifying the original flywheel and balancer to work with the upgrades. Sounds like the way to go, especially since those particular parts off a factory IDIT are hard to find

 

[jwsfarrier]

Thanks Russ. Since I was adding upgrades to the motor (turbo,upgraded IP)I liked the thought of having the stouter turbo rods and wrist pins. I'm not committed one way or the other at this point. The n/a rods and pistons I removed are in great shape. I don't plan on horsebeating this motor but I thought it might be good insurance . I still plan on going through the motor and refurbishing everything. I also don't want to waste the money on the turbo pistons and rods if it's not worth the trouble. Got the new clutch line in btw, love it. Super easy to bleed the system now.

 

[jwsfarrier]

I like that idea. Best of both worlds.

 

[Thewespaul]

Remember also that the turbo piston has the advantage of keystone rings and a factory anodized coating on the top of the piston. No way are you going to break the piston because of the larger wrist pin, I've broken both types of pistons both in the top ring land areas, never had a failure around the wrist pin, that type of failure usually takes excessive rpm which these engines dont really run. These engines do create great torque and high cylinder pressure which is going to be harder on the rods than anything. The shop truck blew a rod in the last na engine with the same exact fuel and air setup that the previous idit engine never had an issue with. The na rods begin to fatigue around 350hp, even if you are just running 300 I would still avoid the na rods

 

[jwsfarrier]

Thanks for the info Wes. I would really like to get to at least 300 HP with this build. Thank you for this forum, access do this kind of information is invaluable!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Thanks for the info Wes. I would really like to get to at least 300 HP with this build.

I was going to say that it depends on how much power you're going to be making. I guess you already answered that one. I guess you should stick to the original plan and use Turbo rods.

 

[jwsfarrier]

Yeah, I just really like the insurance of the the turbo rods. If for some reason I get to 350 at least I know they can handle it. I have a set of the turbo rods I would like use so it's just a matter of getting the pistons and rings. Anybody have a good source for the rings? I was looking at the ones from R&D but it looks they are out of stock