"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

[chillman88]

Finally got started ripping stuff out to replace the A/C. Now there's a big hole there lol.

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Should I replace the pressure switch just in case or only if it's bad? Looks like it specifies R12 or R134A.

 

[chillman88]

My new compressor finally showed up today. Brushed off the casing and hit it with some gloss black. Hopefully I'll get this stuff put in tomorrow.

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[laserjock]

The pressure switch you had will work. The retrofit comes with a new one though. The good news is I’m 99-% sure you can change the pressure switch without venting the system.

 

[chillman88]

The pressure switch you had will work. The retrofit comes with a new one though. The good news is I’m 99-% sure you can change the pressure switch without venting the system.

Yeah it looks like it. Looks like a Schrader valve. I ended up ordering a new one anyway just to be safe. My AC better work pretty good for the money lol!

Decided I'd better splurge for a new blower too. This one has seemed kinda weak in the winter and cooling down a crew cab I'm going to want all the extra flow I can get.

 

[jrollf]

The pressure switch you had will work. The retrofit comes with a new one though. The good news is I’m 99-% sure you can change the pressure switch without venting the system.

On my 93 it has a schader valve, i get a small spurt when i remove it.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

 

[subway]

my pressure switches are on a schrader valve to. once you unscrewed it the valve underneath would seal so no leakage.

 

[catbird7]

Finally got started ripping stuff out to replace the A/C. Now there's a big hole there lol.

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Should I replace the pressure switch just in case or only if it's bad? Looks like it specifies R12 or R134A.

Been down this road, unfortunately I ended up replacing everything. A little costly however it works great.
-C

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-Compressor
-Condenser
-Evaporator
-Orifice tube (red)

Make sure you put the recommended amount & type of oil in your new compressor. Install new o-rings everywhere and pull vacuum on system to verify no leaks prior to loading with 134. Attached pic for ref.

 

[chillman88]

Finally got the thermostat and heater hoses changed out. Old thermostat looked like a Motocraft one, might have been original. Went smooth for the most part except one clamp. The heater hoses have these odd clamps on them.

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One of the clamps was missing the top half of the bolt. Might have been overtorqued, they were pretty tight. I reused those clamps because they look like a more uniform clamp than the screw clamps. The broken one I replaced with a wider screw clamp.

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Put a little piece of 1" hose over the new heater hose like the old one had.

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Stopped at Runnings tonight (farm and fleet type store) and picked up R134a on sale for $3.50 a can, Advance wants $8/ea. Also got 2gal of ATF for $20. I can change the transmission fluid and flush the power steering.

 

[david85]

When I overhauled my AC system, I replaced everything. Hoses, Compressor, Evap core and condenser. The new compressor (not rebuilt) costs more than everything else combined, so I decided to go all in.

 

[chillman88]

Yep I broke down and bought a new one because mine was full of rust.

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I actually put the new compressor in today with about 4-5oz of PAG46 oil in it. It still has the protective covers bolted on the inlet and discharge until I get the new hoses and everything else installed.

I decided I might as well buy a new switch too since everything else is new.

 

[tjsea]

What kind of ATF did you buy? I've found the ZF's seem to shift nicer with synthetic in them. Lookin good so far man!

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[chillman88]

What kind of ATF did you buy? I've found the ZF's seem to shift nicer with synthetic in them. Lookin good so far man!

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Honestly I just bought the cheap generic stuff. I can change it again later but I wanted to make sure it gets done before the trip, I don't know if it's ever been changed. A gallon of the Valvoline synthetic ATF cost the same as the 2gal I bought.

 

[chillman88]

Well regardless of if it was my running hot problem or not that thermostat was definitely due to be replaced. Warms up much faster and runs "hotter" but more controlled. It had been running about halfway between the cold mark and the N on the gauge, as I got closer to home the last few weeks it got up to the R a few times and the fan kicked on. Now it runs right around the N all the time. We'll see on the drive home how she reacts.

 

[subway]

Well regardless of if it was my running hot problem or not that thermostat was definitely due to be replaced. Warms up much faster and runs "hotter" but more controlled. It had been running about halfway between the cold mark and the N on the gauge, as I got closer to home the last few weeks it got up to the R a few times and the fan kicked on. Now it runs right around the N all the time. We'll see on the drive home how she reacts.

sorry this drives me a little crazy, you got to get a real gauge in there to really know. The N and R letters are kinda subjective.

hope you got it though, sounds like it is behaving better now.

 

[chillman88]

sorry this drives me a little crazy, you got to get a real gauge in there to really know. The N and R letters are kinda subjective.

hope you got it though, sounds like it is behaving better now.

Oh I know. But it does give you "relative comparison". A temp gauge is on the ever growing list as well.

Fact is I ran a grille blanket all winter. Once we got near the end there where it was hovering around 40-50 in the evenings and 20 in the morning I took it off... I had practically no heat. Work is 30min away from my house. No reason it should still be that cold. Now it warms up quite a bit quicker, than it did last week so I know it's doing something