Hard to tell how much difference it made. Completely worth it just because now my high beams are actually worth using.
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"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Looks like it didn't work at all! Those lights suck!
(They aren't on, lol)
Great, both of them are blown?
I was afraid one of them would blow before I got the ticket signed off since they're used bulbs. That would have been my luck lol!
Well no pictures to share but I think I finally fixed my fuel gauge. I replaced about 6 feet of the sending unit wire. Pretty much just clipped until I got wire that wasn't black from corrosion.
I knew when I replaced my tank selector valve that using unsealed crimp connectors would be a problem down the road. Sure enough, I started untaping the wires and water started dripping down. Apparently the tape job was good enough to seal in any water that sprayed into it. A couple of the connections had come apart. They all needed to be redone.
I replaced all the crimps with adhesive heatshrink crimps and figured I'd test my gauge by switching tanks since the rear is empty... .... No switching. I'm getting 12v at the plug and the wiring switches polarity as it should. I'm pretty upset though, the "weatherpack" style connector didn't seal worth jack. Unplugged it and everything was green and wet
I tried cleaning it but I'm betting it's got water inside the FSV. No amount of cleaning managed to get it to switch. That switch is only a year old!!!!! I installed it before the rally last year.
I'm not sure if I'll bother replacing it or not yet. Might be an ideal time for a 38gal tank but money is pretty tight. If I do replace it, everything will get a heavy coat of dielectric grease before assembly!!!
I knew when I replaced my tank selector valve that using unsealed crimp connectors would be a problem down the road. Sure enough, I started untaping the wires and water started dripping down. Apparently the tape job was good enough to seal in any water that sprayed into it. A couple of the connections had come apart. They all needed to be redone.
I replaced all the crimps with adhesive heatshrink crimps and figured I'd test my gauge by switching tanks since the rear is empty... .... No switching. I'm getting 12v at the plug and the wiring switches polarity as it should. I'm pretty upset though, the "weatherpack" style connector didn't seal worth jack. Unplugged it and everything was green and wet
I tried cleaning it but I'm betting it's got water inside the FSV. No amount of cleaning managed to get it to switch. That switch is only a year old!!!!! I installed it before the rally last year.I'm not sure if I'll bother replacing it or not yet. Might be an ideal time for a 38gal tank but money is pretty tight. If I do replace it, everything will get a heavy coat of dielectric grease before assembly!!!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I did this to the main plug on my engine wiring harness while putting my engine back in last year. I think it's a good idea. As for the unsealed crimp connectors, I have a friend who used to cover both ends of the connectors with RTV before taping them up. He said that it was to keep water out. I have no idea if it worked, but it sounds like it should. I DO know from experience helping him with trailer light replacement that it does make a BIG mess on your hands.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
I bet it does! Adhesive shrink wrap FTW, finally got me some earlier this year and a box of bare terminals; now fixing wires the RIGHT way is almost too easy! I love it.
My go to is liquid electrical tape followed by heat shrink. If you are careful, you can shrink the tube without boiling the solvent in the liquid tape. Nice to see a little ooze out as it shrinks up the last bit. Dialectic grease never hurt anyone. Me, I just don’t drive mine in the rain if I can help it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I forgot to mention that this was back in the mid 90's. If good things like the adhesive/weatherproof shrink wrap was available, we didn't know about it.
Yeah I would have used that first but didn't have any due to poor planning on my part lol.
Yeah sadly the problem wasn't rain but saltwater.... I didn't want to but it beats walking to work
I would have used it before but... Why would I be worried about a ""waterproof"" connector
In a pinch I've used RTV over connections before using cheap non-adhesive heatshrink. I figured it should serve the same purpose.
the military introduced me to these
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7
you slip these on the wires and just use a heat gun to solder the wires, heat shrink and seal the ends of the connector all in one step. they are great!
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7
you slip these on the wires and just use a heat gun to solder the wires, heat shrink and seal the ends of the connector all in one step. they are great!
Yeah well.... That's what I thought I ordered until I re read the ebay ad after they showed up
Yeah well.... That's what I thought I ordered until I re read the ebay ad after they showed up
ouch, do-over
ouch, do-over
Well I can use them. They are heatshrink so at least they are better than the plain "insulated" ones.
Certainly not the first nor the last time I've failed to pay attention
Dragging the new trailer home the other day my fender marker lights on the truck went out. I checked the relay under the hood and it clicked, and had power.
I spent a couple hours crawling around underneath this truck, tracing wires, unhooking stuff, removing looms looking for a split... Nothing.
Finally managed to figure out even though my two year old relay was clicking it wasn't doing jack. I'm tired of replacing a $12 relay.... I've had issues with it getting wet and sticking on before too.
That should fix it. Now it uses a standard 5 pin Bosch style relay and worst case I can steal one off something else in the truck if it goes bad again on the road.
I spent a couple hours crawling around underneath this truck, tracing wires, unhooking stuff, removing looms looking for a split... Nothing.
Finally managed to figure out even though my two year old relay was clicking it wasn't doing jack. I'm tired of replacing a $12 relay.... I've had issues with it getting wet and sticking on before too.
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That should fix it. Now it uses a standard 5 pin Bosch style relay and worst case I can steal one off something else in the truck if it goes bad again on the road.
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