Wheel bearing tightness?

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
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You can grind it, but I have found if I have room, the quickest way for me is to center punch the center of the rivet head, and then take a drill and drill the head out till you get to the depth of the frame. Once the drill bit has hogged out the center of the rivet head, a couple of wacks with a large chisel will break the rivet head off. Then just drive it out of the frame.
I like to use a grinder to cut a groove across the middle of the rivet head almost all the way through. Next I use a chisel end on my air hammer to easily knock the head off of the rivet. After that, I just use a punch end on the air hammer to drive out the rest of the rivet.
 

papadiesel

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On four-wheel-drive torque to 70 pounds spin a couple of times back off a quarter turn torque to 22 pounds, This is 44 and 50 HD TTB with ratchet style locking nuts
 

jrollf

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I didn't have to take the radius arm bracket off to replace the bushings on my 93 F350. When I had the axle pivot and sway bar disconnected, with little effort I was able to get the trailing radius arm out of the bracket.

I think the key was I had everything (except the coil spring) disconected as I replaced all front end bushings at the same time, including the sway bar and pivot bushings.
 

Daniel McCurdy

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Well, while I was under there today I checked every rivet, bolt, and mount and everything was tight. I did find one thing that might be loose, the lower spring mount, the big washer I could just jiggle around and was very loose. I'm guessing it's supposed to be right and not loose
 

franklin2

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That means bolt 388727 is loose? That holds the radius arm to the front axle. That's not good that it's loose.

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Daniel McCurdy

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oh wow i didnt realise it was such an important bolt crazy thing is both sides are loose. i should probably try to tighten those up
 

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