Front Hub - 1991 F350 4x2 Dually - How To Tell If Wheel Bearings Are Bad?

[bulletpruf]

So I brought Brownie to the shop last week to get it aligned. They said they couldn't align it because it was too sloppy and said I needed new wheel bearings.

I bought new wheel bearings and races, but I'd rather not change them out if I don't have to. I'm assuming I can just remove the hub and rotor assembly, inspect the races and bearings, and if all looks good, grease, re-assemble, and then call it good.

Doubt I'd see much wear on the bearings themselves, but if the races appear to be worn, that would be my cue to replace bearings and races, right?

Anyone know off the top of their head how much to tighten the nut to set the correct preload on the bearings?

Thanks,

Scott

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[Nero]

Jack up the front end so the wheel is off the ground.

Grab it at the top and bottom and try to rock the tire. Should be practically no movement at the hub.

Rotate the wheel, should be smooth with no abnormal binding. If there is, remove caliper and try again to verify its not the brake hanging up.

As for the preload, I don't know that off hand.

But this is a quick and easy way to tell if they're bad without opening it up. If all feels fine I'd send it.

Chances are the ball joints are worn.

 

[bulletpruf]

Gotcha, but if the spindle nut is loose, that could be the issue instead of worn bearings, right?

Pretty sure prior owner said he replaced the ball joints.

Thanks

 

[Nero]

Loose spindle nut can cause loose bearings, but it can also damage them.

 

[chillman88]

I had an alignment shop tell me that once too. They tightened the spindle nut all the way down and ended up destroying my bearings. Next time I'm just going to tell them to get it as close as they can....

 

[HS108]

Going by videos ive been watching, you want to tighten the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating the hub, then back off 1/4 turn so you can line up the nut retainer ring, then you tighten the outter ring (jamb nut) to 150+ ft/lbs of torque

Torque specs dana 50 hub.

Any one have correct torque specs for the inner and outer hub nuts. If i can remember 50lbs inner then back off quarter turn, outer somthing around 100lbs. Not sure on these, need verification thanks.

www.oilburners.net

scroll down to CLB post he quotes the Factory service manual

From the 93 fsm
While rotating the hub back and forth, tighten inner nut to 50 ft lb. ,to seat bearing,
Back off and re tighten inner nut to 30-40 ft lb.,while rotating hub back and forth.
Back off nut 90*, install lockwasher and align pin to nearest hole while tightening.
Install outter nut and tourque to160-205 ft lb.
Check final end play of spindle ...
Should be 0.00-0.11 mm, 0.000-0.004 inch
Torque required to rotate hub and rotor is not to exeed 2.3 nm ,20 inch lbs


EDIT: just noticed yours is a dana 60, but im pretty sure its the same process

 

[Cant Write]

I’m not sure about on vehicles, but on bicycles if you feel notchiness at all when you free spin it, you have the inner nut too tight and it’s squeezing the ball bearings against the race causing wear and ruining it.

Has anyone felt notchiness when checking it on vehicles?

I know apples to oranges, but the concept applies

 

[Nero]

Aren't bycicles ball bearings? With tapered roller bearings I've never experienced notchiness when rolling it over, just increased even effort to rotate it.

My general rule of thumb is torque it to the 120-150ftlbs, rotate, then back nut off, then hand spin it til it touches, then back off like 1/10th of a turn. Usually its a little less than the 90° out that the manual calls for, but there's also less slop in the bearings doing it this way.

 

[u2slow]

I was often snugging up the front wheel bearings on my '97 E350 van. I estimate it was rolling at 10k# gross most of the time.

I finally decided to get the slotted rotors and new Timken wheel bearings. Seemed a bit better after that - but ultimately I felt it had more to do with with the squirminess of the 245/75r16E front tires. I should probably have gone to a load F tire like I did for the rear.

 

[Cant Write]

Aren't bycicles ball bearings? With tapered roller bearings

Ah yes, bicycles are ball bearings and cars are tapered rollers. I knew that. There I go putting my alligator mouth ahead of my hummingbird brain again!!

 

[Nero]

Can't blame ya for letting the ol' noggin turning gears!

 

[mblaney]

HS108 has the correct procedure posted. It is very easy to install these bearings too loose - everything is heavy and hard to give the hand shake test. It is unlikely it will be too tight if you can rotate the hub with one strong hand.