What's your starter preference??

sportsmobile88

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My 1988 E350's starter finally smoked so I'm in the market for a new one. Mine has a Mitsubishi. What do you guys think of the different brands/models out there? Mitsubishi vs. Denso vs. Motorcraft vs.??? vs. ??? and why??
 

icanfixall

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Any gear reduction starter is far better than the direct drive type. The gr spins so much faster and thats what makes any diesel start easier. The faster the motor turns over the more heat it can develop for an easier start. It takes around 940 degrees for diesel to ignite. I know that sounds high but its true so. Spinning faster the aire being compressed developes more heat for the fuel ignition. I really like the Mitsubishi gear reduction starters. Others will tell you the Denso is the one they like. I buy from a private mom& pop rebuilder that has never given me any trouble about warranty. Actually I have never had to bring back any starter, alternater or power steering pump....
 

sportsmobile88

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That's great advice. Thank you for responding. I noticed you are in SoCal. Can I ask where you take your starters for a rebuild?? I always try the mom-n-pops BEFORE having to resort to the big chains. I really don't mind going out of my way for service and quality.
 

NJKen

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I always favored the Mitsu when I had my IDI. I liked it because it did use all 3 bolts and you could actually get to them all (that top one is a real ***** with some starters). I have seen a few aftermarket designed starters that do away with the top bolt altogether and that does not sit well with me. There are 2 variatons on the Mitsu starter. There is an 11 tooth and 13 (count may be off, its been a while) tooth. They interchange well but those 2 extra teeth on the 13 tooth really spun those motors over good! The weak point on the Mitsu is the starter solenoid. However, a good replacement solenoid can be acquired from any reputable rebuilder.
Ken
 

Billyisgr8

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I have one of those Denso STYLE starters, it is a copy of a nippondenso and made in china but it works great and starts very fast. Test it first before you put it in the truck, mine came from the factory with the solenoid stuck on. I took it apart and the contact washer inside had welded itself in the on position. Of course I didn't test mine before installing and had installed it and was highly suprised :eek: when I conected the battery cable and it started turning over the engine.
 

bucholzi

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Thanks NJKen. I believe that my solonoid is what smoked. And using all 3 mounting bolts is the only thing that makes sense. Don't know what the count is but I'll go look. Anyone ever use one of these??:
http://www.db-starter-alternator.co...sel Starter Higher Tork 1985-94 16658 SND0027

I have installed both that one and this standard type. I haven't ran them for long as the truck still isn't back on the road after renovation, so I can't say anything about long term quality. And the reason for trying both is that I ordered the one you linked, but got the standard type. :mad: Got the right one shipped and didn't bother to ship the other back as I live in Norway. However there was a solenoid fault (from the box) and it tended to lock in engage and every time I disconnected the batteries, the starter would start running as soon as the batteries were connected again -cuss So I pulled it and installed the standard type that I had laying around. No problems with the costumer service at db-electrical though, they were great and I reckon I was just a bit unlucky. But at least I got to test both on the same truck:

The one you linked turns the engine with much better speed than the original ever did and the standard type managed. It scared me at the first start-up, I just dropped the keys and put my hands over my head and thought "what in gods name have I done wrong now?!?". I was mightily impressed, and the best word to descripe it is "aggressive", I think. And when I had to pull it again and put in the standard type, it was a big disappointment. So I got a new one and I'm swapping back after I have changed the IP and injector.
 

sportsmobile88

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Thanks guys. Oilburners is great!! I just got back from both parts stores. Yes I said both.
I have a neighbor that just moved in across the street and owns an auto parts store (read as good-guy-discounts-heh-heh) and I got a Denso style new not re-man. There was no core charge and I got it for slightly cheaper than the link I posted. So that left me with my old one and an extra 20 bucks or so. So......... I got to thinking.....What if...I just bought a replacement [email protected] I did....and I'm about 20 bucks over budget.......kinda cuts into beer money......Thait aint gonna happen........ah hell.....I just won't eat very well for a few days. I will follow the advice and inspect the solonoid first 'cause it looks like it's two for two between Billyisgr8 and Bucholzi having bad-outa-the-box soleniods. Gosh what are the odds of that???
 

icanfixall

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The shop I use is called Smog Pumps Unlimited in Santa Fe Springs Ca. Jim Morgan is the owner- man to talk with. His wife Carol is really good with parts too. Been buying from them for 34 years. Its on its second generation family ownership now with Jim and Carol. His Dad opened the store. Last starter I bought was around $150.00 and worth every penny.
 

sportsmobile88

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Thanks icanfixall, once I get my Mitsu apart to inspect if it needs a rebuild, I'll look him up. My girlfriend has an office near there so dropoff and pickup will be easy. Thanks for the info. BTW, your truck buildup sounds incredible!
 

Billyisgr8

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Hey Bucholzi, if your starter is sticking on like mine did brand new out of the box it is a very easy fix, Take off the solenoid end with the 3 little philips screw heads and wire conections on it, you will see a washer on a shaft pushed up by a spring in there, sand both contact surfaces smooth again, and put it back together. They are doing something wrong at the factory when they are tested as my washers were welded together, that doesn't just happen passing regular current through it, atleast I don't think so.
 

typ4

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It happens when the test battery is low, low voltage causes higher than normal current draw and welds contacts.
 

Knuckledragger

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Ok, I'm going to swim against the tide here. I am sold on the AC type straight through starters. If the engine will turn over at all, it will start. The gear reduction motors will tun and turn even if the batteries are low. I have run both, and swear by the stock type with enormous motor windings and gobs of torque; swear AT the gear reduction starters.
 

sportsmobile88

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I tend to like both but mine came with a Mitsubishi gear reduction already in it. Who knows if it was different stock or not. All I know is that after a double-scrub-a-dousing in Simple Green it looked almost new or at least pretty fresh. I am third owner and as I understand the paperwork, Owner 1 died, wife sold to neighbor and I bought from him when he got a Class A bus. (posting pics soon)

Just got the Denso on and WOW and WOW the top bolt is WAAY worse to get at than the Mitsu and you turn the key and it starts into yesterday. Gonna have to get a swivel socket to get it off though. When the time comes.
 

typ4

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I use a 12 point bolt in that location to make it easy to get a socket on.
 

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