What order should I upgrade...

DaveBen

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Aluminum begins to melt at 1208 degrees F (or something close). That is why 1200 is the upper limit.
 

riotwarrior

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I WOUKD DO INJECTORS AND RETURN LINES first...

As said unkown on replacement IP so maybe its good.

Then IP

Then Turbo

Free flow exhaust in there someplace
 

Black dawg

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By your description of the sound, advance on vs advance off, your timing is probably pretty slow. If it runs smooth with no smoke or funny noises, and starts good, I would spend my money on a timing set up. Then I would atleast temporarily install a pyro and adjust fuel to a safe level.

And if you still have the stock exhaust get it all off of there and and put a single 3inch with a good flowing muffler
 

Thewespaul

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Got any references?

I've /seen/ one NA IDI on the dyno, making 85HP at the wheels. I'm at 2K elevation.

I've /heard/ of multiple NA IDIs making around 125 at the wheels vs the 185 rated crankshaft HP.
There's a topic over on FTE from a few years ago showing numbers between 143 and 109 for NA IDIs. Not sure on elevation.
I'd expect that with optimal power tuning, and possibly a cam or more fuel than stock, you'd make a little more than the rated 185 HP, but probably create more emissions(smoke) than stock too.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1346590-racinndrummins-fullsize-bronco-idi-build-14.html
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R&D built a completely NA engine that made 171 hp and 300 ft lbs on a mustang dyno. The truck in my sig will be on the dyno when I finish my water/**** setup and get some fresh injectors. If you want to make huge power then a turbo is the way to go but there is something special about the sound of a NA diesel motor that keeps me wanting to stay NA and see what I can make in this configuration.

(EDIT) I'm 1444 ft.
 

chillman88

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By your description of the sound, advance on vs advance off, your timing is probably pretty slow. If it runs smooth with no smoke or funny noises, and starts good, I would spend my money on a timing set up. Then I would atleast temporarily install a pyro and adjust fuel to a safe level.

And if you still have the stock exhaust get it all off of there and and put a single 3inch with a good flowing muffler

Yeah I'm going to keep an eye on my local muffler shop. I'm hoping to score a takeoff muffler and tailpipe from a newer duramax/powerstroke/cummins that wanted stacks.

There was a nice 4" but I didn't have the cash at the time. If I do that I'll run 3" from the y-pipe back to the 4". I know I don't need 4" but if the price is right and I keep it 3" for most of the run I think I'll be fine.
 

79jasper

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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1346590-racinndrummins-fullsize-bronco-idi-build-14.html
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R&D built a completely NA engine that made 171 hp and 300 ft lbs on a mustang dyno. The truck in my sig will be on the dyno when I finish my water/**** setup and get some fresh injectors. If you want to make huge power then a turbo is the way to go but there is something special about the sound of a NA diesel motor that keeps me wanting to stay NA and see what I can make in this configuration.

(EDIT) I'm 1444 ft.
Quite a bit of difference in 99% of the N/A engines on the road we're talking about vs his built N/A engine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

Thewespaul

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Ahh thought he was talking about all NA engines that's why I was confused, yeah a stock NA engine is a dog, that's why things never stay stock :Thumbs Up
 

IDIBRONCO

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If nothing else, you can at least cut the factory muffler off the exhaust. You could either connect it to the stock tailpipe or just make a turn out in the exhaust. That would get rid of the most restrictive part of the factory exhaust.
 

Macrobb

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With regards to Justin's IDI, yeah, sure, he made a few more HP. But he did a /lot/ of mods to make that happen, that don't apply to 'normal' IDIs. Also, he's pretty close to sea level(enumclaw, WA = 761' above sea level), vs 2K for me or 1440 for thewespaul
Also, pretty sure that he smoked quite a bit. Fine for the dyno, not so much for driving.

Remember that smoke = high EGTs, at least in my experience.

As far as deciding to stay NA... I was all about that myself for a few years. I tried a bunch of mods, tuned it, messed with it etc.
Put the turbo on and I will /never/ go back. The turbo just makes it *so* much better, it's not funny.
Below 45(unloaded), you don't see much difference in acceleration. Above 45, it makes a difference. Hauling, it makes a difference.
And don't even think about going 70-80 with a decent load on, NA. You'll be maxing it out the whole way. Turboed? Just give it more throttle and take that hill at speed!


Exhaust wise... I've tried it. I whacked the muffler off when I had a NA truck. No real difference. Sounded a /lot/ louder, though.
Ended up putting a Thrush Welded muffler on it at that point, which made it bearable again.
Power... well, no real difference.


With my turbo rigs, it's different. It's actually reasonable to drive it straight-piped, without getting hearing loss. The turbo quiets it down quite a bit, especially on acceleration or any time you have boost(so it's loudest when decelerating).

You can also throw a nice glasspack on there and quiet it down a lot. Ended up with that on my 88, and it removed a lot of noise and, again, no noticeable power loss.


 

Thewespaul

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No doubt that a turbo will really wake these trucks up but I like the challenge that NA presents. The R&D pumps tend to be a lot more smokey below 2000 rpms but the Moose pump I'm using has no smoke under 2000 rpms and very little for the rest of the powerband and I hardly find myself in a situation where I need more power. Its really all about your tuning but to each there own.
 

chillman88

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No doubt that a turbo will really wake these trucks up but I like the challenge that NA presents. The R&D pumps tend to be a lot more smokey below 2000 rpms but the Moose pump I'm using has no smoke under 2000 rpms and very little for the rest of the powerband and I hardly find myself in a situation where I need more power. Its really all about your tuning but to each there own.

So are you still N/A then? How heavy do you haul?

I'm hoping to get a camper eventually and it'd be a real chore the way she is now!
 

Thewespaul

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Yep truck in my sig is the one I'm referring to, the heaviest I've pulled was our 9000lb chipper from here to Dallas and it was slow going maybe 65 taking it easy but you have to drive by egts, turbo you dont have to worry about egts as much, but with my water **** setup I'm hoping to fix that.
 

chillman88

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Yep truck in my sig is the one I'm referring to, the heaviest I've pulled was our 9000lb chipper from here to Dallas and it was slow going maybe 65 taking it easy but you have to drive by egts, turbo you dont have to worry about egts as much, but with my water **** setup I'm hoping to fix that.

DALLAS! Your opinion doesn't count, we have HILLS and you don't lol!

I actually flew into DFW to pick this truck up! I bought it in Graham and drove it back home to New York. You have a beautiful state there! Someday I'll come back when I can stay more than a day!
 

Thewespaul

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Thanks, wish so many people would stop moving down here thoLOL Once you get past my area its real flat but its actually quite hilly here in the bulverde area hence the name the hill country! Give me a shout when you get a chance to come down here:thumbsup:
 

chillman88

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So I got the desire to tinker today. I found out the reason I couldn't advance the timing... Someone didn't put a washer on the IP nuts and it had gouged a little hole out so that's why it wasn't moving.

I just wish I had realized this BEFORE I removed all the injection lines.. and the high idle solenoid... And the throttle cable and bracket lol!

I advanced it a little bit. I put an o-ring in the feed line because I couldn't get the olive out. At least it's not leaking anymore!

Has anyone tried burning them out with a torch?

Also wondering if anyone could snap a picture of the factory throttle return spring. Mine is not right and I'm not sure how it "should" be.
 
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