I like your filter set up, the De-bug.... if you feel it works, NP, but the filters are what's really doing your fuel justice.
One of the things that helps keep water to a minimum i using the equipment. Unless you receive water from an external source, such as an old farm tank under or above ground, most fuel stations should be delivering decent fuel. That said, even fuel stations have dilemma's with bacteria. The tanks are large enough to hide water from the pick ups, in far corners. This is the breeding ground.
It's important to know this because we are all receiving contaminated fuel from good sources. It may not be enough to cause big issues, with limited water or using the equipment, but once it's in there, if given the opportunity, tanks sitting with some moisture in it, bacteria will grow. Now you have three issues, water, acid and particulate.
Not to be self promotional here, we sell and promote chemicals, but there was a concern of using chemicals to treat fuel. First, using chemicals is not such an issue, so long as you're using them for the right reasons. People become disappointed with chemicals because they don't do what they're "perceived" to do, and yes, there is a snake oil element to it if you don't know why/what the chemicals do. Heck, some of these additives are nothing more than good ole paint thinner, but even they can be of benefit in the top end and for performance, BUT, adding too much can do harm by raising EGT's, valve burn etc.. Again, knowing what the chemicals are in the bottle and what they do is key. Those who buy and add for the purpose of just adding a fuel additive are just wasting their money.
Around here, on this board, there is one popular product, and many are using it religiously for its lubricity properties. That's a good thing! So long as it's understood that's what they're using it for.
There's another one.... even I used incorrectly many moons ago, gave a heckuvalota performance, but does not a whit of good against bacterial infection, have testing to prove it. One of those solvent based additives that do great things for the top end and for performance, but adding too much can decrease your scheduled rebuild times because it makes the engine burn hotter.
We used to use straight JP-5 aka jet fuel in our Detroits. BasicallyJP-5 is a very pure kerosene... WICKED AWESOME for power creation!!! BUT! When used, instead of ever 1000 hours of scheduled rebuild, it drops by 50% when using kerosene. Engine wear is deadly to longevity with "hot" solvents.
We use two different additives for two different reasons. The first is our primary additive because it does three things: 1) makes a bad living environment for bacteria, even if water is present, but is not a biocide, 2) prevents MIC corrosion (Microbial Induced Corrosion) by filming the interior tank walls, there-by preventing acidic damage caused by bacterial poop. 3) Adds lubricity. This particular product also eliminates bacterial sludge over time, but isn't an over night cure, although customers are pretty darned happy in shorter order than I usually promise. For sitting vehicles, this product is next to miraculous.
The second additive is used for engines that are all coked up! It's amazing what a little "hot" can do to clean things up. After a few hours of operation, a lot of smoke clears and power comes back. It allows for the mechanic to more accurately determine what's wrong with the engine systems when you start with a clean fuel/air point.
We don't use the latter so much, because once you're burning good clean fuel, a lot of the smoking and loss of performance issues go away. If they don't, then add the hot stuff, if it still doesn't, then call the mechanics!
I hope this helps a little bit anyway. I know it's hard to pry people from their beliefs regarding additives, whether pro or con. Filtration is always #1, BUT, when you know there's an issue, chemically treating is #2 and a very viable solution.... just gotta know what the chemicals are for or it's just a waste of money and time.
