What else? When replacing oil pan and head gaskets

[Bigred7]

Hello,
This is my first post, up until now I’ve been able to find all the information I could ask for in the previously discussed topics.

In the spring I am planning on pulling my 6.9 on my 87 f350 due to rotting oil pan and leaking head gasket. Along with that Im considering replacement of main & rod bearings, oil pump, exhaust manifolds, IP (needs), injectors(needs) and front/rear main seals. I’m unsure of mileage, when I purchased truck the title said 399,000. Is there anything else I should consider replacing or exclude from my list while the engine is out? Right now it runs great with adequate oil pressure. I just would like to prevent having to pull it again a year or two down the road. I read on this site that oil pumps rarely need to be replaced. Any advise would be appreciated.

 

[Ethan Smith]

Ive heard from old timers to always replace the oil pump if your going that deep in there i.e. bearings. I did my thermostat and water pump when i did the head gaskets. The heads prolly need work at that milage. The volumetric efficiency could be down. Better check rings too. If your replacing bearing because of wear then im sure the rings are worse off.

 

[Bigred7]

With the condition of the truck and what I have seen for wear, I don’t believe it has that many miles but I guess you never know. This is my first diesel. When I pull oil pans on gas engines with some mileage I typically consider replacing the bearings and always oil pump. I’m on the fence of just doing the bare minimum that I have to do like the pan, head gasket&studs along with the typicals (thermostat, water pump and misc. gaskets). Otherwise I would like to go above and beyond such as the bearing replacement and oil pump. If I go that route I would like to start ordering parts as I see discounts over the winter.

 

[austin92]

Lot of people here say the stock oil pump is better than anything aftermarket you can buy


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[79jasper]

Lot of people here say the stock oil pump is better than anything aftermarket you can buy


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Yup. No reason you cant inspect/reuse.

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[IDIBRONCO]

Instead of planning on replacing your bearings, why don't you inspect them first just to see what they look like?

 

[Comptech]

Soft plugs.. but I live in the rust belt.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes, but these are stainless and won't rust.

 

[Knuckledragger]

With the seals, get the stainless buddy rings, as the stock sealing surface is probably worn and may not seal again. Don't ask me how I know. It is well worth the small extra cost. Also remember to seal the flywheel bolts when reassembling. They will leak, too. Use Hylomar, a permatex product that is very helpful for these engines.

Depending on how much you can/want to spend and how far out of the truck you have the engine, replace the oil cooler O rings. consider replacing wrist pin bushings and having the rods rebuilt. unbolt and clean the piston cooler jets. They sometimes catch junk and get clogged.

Unless the stock oil pump is broken, it is as good as you can hope for.

 

[Bigred7]

Thank you for the advise. Part of me wants to do the Re-ring but I don’t want to do it if it doesn’t need. It’s a yard/plow truck so I only put <5000 on per year. I may just check bearings , replace if needed and throw the new pan on. Head gaskets I will do with the addition of studs. My injector pump just started leaking so I will have to do that along with injectors. I have a problem with going overboard and replacing things while I’m in there. Just trying to avoid my own weaknesses ! Thanks again!

 

[Thewespaul]

Let me know if you need any gaskets or wear items, I stock everything in house to reseal or rering your engine, I can take care of the injectors and pump too!

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/6-9-and-7-3-idi-engine-reseal-and-rebuild-kits.84455/