Turbo is a runner/valve cover leaks!

Thewespaul

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It's more than weeping. I've not had it running under load to get the temp past 190* . I'm getting really pressed for time. We were planning to hook up our heavy 30ft. RV and pull it to Florida next week. After I've got it sorted, next stop is to Corey's in PA about three hours away so that he can time it and help with the exhaust system install. Obviously, I've got to push the schedule ahead...
I would retorque it just to see if you get lucky. Otherwise just replace it, I would put the valve cover on a flat surface or glass is best to visually see if it lays flat
 

Thewespaul

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Id try 7 as posted above, my elbow is calibrated for that spec, so not really sure what mine are clamped to, just no leaks
 

OLDBULL8

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After torquing to that 20 Ft-lbs, you have bent the pan rail and torque spreaders. You need to remove the pan and straighten the rail and spreaders. Torque bolts to 7-8 ft-lbs or just tighten lightly, if it still leaks, then tighten a half bolt turn each one until leaking stops.
 

saburai

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After torquing to that 20 Ft-lbs, you have bent the pan rail and torque spreaders. You need to remove the pan and straighten the rail and spreaders. Torque bolts to 7-8 ft-lbs or just tighten lightly, if it still leaks, then tighten a half bolt turn each one until leaking stops.

Yeah oh, I know. I am just so frustrated! I tried to do everything correctly. I guess the internet is no excuse for a good shop manual. I still have other things to do, I think I will install my exhaust gas temperature gauge and boost gauge today and maybe tomorrow I'll be less frustrated about the valve cover...
 

snicklas

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A couple of tricks that Travis and I talked about over the years on the IDI valve covers.....

1. Every time you remove the torque spreaders, flip them over when you put the, back on. The spreaders do get a bit deformed each time they are torqued. When you flip them the torque helps to flatten them back out.....

2. If you do not have an inch-pound 1/4 drive torque wrench, tighten them with a nut driver. With a nut driver, you can't put as much torque as with a wrench/ratchet. There just isn't as much leverage available. Also, with the nut driver, they just need to be snug, don't double hand and twist with all ya got..... Remember, the early 6.9's had Phillips head screws, not hex head bolts.... Many years ago he bought a 1/4 drive inch-pound torque wrench specifically for the valve covers.....
 

Dieselcrawler

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I always refer to my manuals, even if the one I posted above is a cheap chilltons diesel manual
 

saburai

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Thanks guy's!
I did flip the spreaders and I've got a inch pound wrench. Does anyone else think that it would be a good idea to remove erroneous technical information from the stickies?
 

IDIBRONCO

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If that doesn't work, make sure that part of the gasket didn't somehow slide out out of place and end up inside the sealing surface. It can happen. I've actually had it happen on a stand and then had to replace the gasket after the engine's installed. You probably won't know if this has happened without removing the valve cover. This could be your only problem.
 
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