WhistlinDiesel
Registered User
Hi, I was wondering if there is any way to get a tuner or better MPG with my 92 7.3 IDI? It is a crew cab dually, Thank yall
Tuner for IDI
- Thread starter WhistlinDiesel
- Start date
Shouri036
Registered User
I know with the c6 you can do a gear vendor I was told you get a small boost other than that no clue I'm learning these things still.
WhistlinDiesel
Registered User
Yeah, same here. Ive had mine for only about 3months
NeverHave-I-Ether
Full Access Member
There's no "tuner" for these engines. Tuners are for computer controlled engines. These IDIs are mechanical, so in order to "tune" them, mechanical changes are necessary.
Never-Ether
Never-Ether
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Things to consider-
1) You can buy a timing meter and play with the timing a couple degrees either way. Might buy you 1-2 mpg if the timing is close or perhaps more if your timing is off.
2) If you do not tow heavy, the trucks with the 3.55 pinion gears get better gas mileage than the 4.10. (+3-5 mpg.) If you have a 4.10 driving 55mph really helps. (Guessing perhaps you bought a dually to tow.)
3) If non-turbo you could perhaps turn your pump down one or two flats, but you might miss the power.
4) If your injectors and pump have over 60k miles on them, perhaps having them rebuilt might get you another 1-3 mpg.
1) You can buy a timing meter and play with the timing a couple degrees either way. Might buy you 1-2 mpg if the timing is close or perhaps more if your timing is off.
2) If you do not tow heavy, the trucks with the 3.55 pinion gears get better gas mileage than the 4.10. (+3-5 mpg.) If you have a 4.10 driving 55mph really helps. (Guessing perhaps you bought a dually to tow.)
3) If non-turbo you could perhaps turn your pump down one or two flats, but you might miss the power.
4) If your injectors and pump have over 60k miles on them, perhaps having them rebuilt might get you another 1-3 mpg.
WhistlinDiesel
Registered User
Thank you, Big Bart. Ill try that, Is there any injectors that would be better than others?
Old Goat
Full Access Member
The GV doesn`t give you any boost, It can be mounted behind any transmission. Auto or manual. Once you are in high gear, put the GV in the OD position and you have one higher gear than the 1:1.
With a manual gear box (maybe and auto also) you can split the gears once over 20mph.
They are pricy, new $3000 or more depending on application.
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Install a ZF-5 manual gear box and you will have the OD 5th gear, along with the 3:55 Differential.
Injectors and Injection pumps are recommended to be replaced and or rebuilt every 150K miles. Thats about the end of their efficient usefull life span.
There are 4 people that are recommended for these parts.
Where to go for injectors and injection pumps.
I wanted to post this since it is a weekly question “who/where do I go for injectors and injector pumps?” I believe this has been posted by vendor but not a list. Unlike a oil filter, ignition switch, or fan belt. Buying injectors and pumps at the auto parts stores or worse yet online have...
www.oilburners.net
Have clean Fuel Filter and Air Filter, get the engine timing set for best efficiency,
Don`r race every one to the next red light. Drive like you have an egg under your foot.
I can get 20mpg in my 85 F-250 6.9 T-19 Trans and 3:55 Diff. Haven`t checked in a while, with winter fuel it probably dropped. I think as the price of fuel has sky rocketed, the MPG has gone down.
Goat
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When they were new, the codes on the sides of the injectors may have meant something, but these days, after being rebuilt multiple times, the letter codes mean nothing. Just go with one of the supplies that Old Goat mentioned.
I think that he meant that a Gear Vendors will give you a slight boost in mileage. He just didn't quite add all of the words.
This is probably the best advice that you can follow. 20= years ago, I knew an older guy who swore that he got 23 MPG out of his 89 F250 Ex. cab, E4OD, 4X2. I was told by someone else that it probably took him 2 miles to get up to 60 MPH and that's probably all the faster that he drove even on the interstates.
As for me, I don't try racing anyone to the next red light. I also don't try to set any acceleration records while getting onto the highway. My problem is that I don't drive down the highway like there's an egg under my foot. I HATE losing speed up hills. I probably need to work on that one.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
I completely understand that...This is probably the best advice that you can follow. 20= years ago, I knew an older guy who swore that he got 23 MPG out of his 89 F250 Ex. cab, E4OD, 4X2. I was told by someone else that it probably took him 2 miles to get up to 60 MPH and that's probably all the faster that he drove even on the interstates.
As for me, I don't try racing anyone to the next red light. I also don't try to set any acceleration records while getting onto the highway. My problem is that I don't drive down the highway like there's an egg under my foot. I HATE losing speed up hills. I probably need to work on that one.
I drive my IDIs like a 2 stroke Detroit ( slam your fingers in the door and floor it), and I keep trying to kick the habit, because 10 mpg ain't no fun.........
Then again, they get get worked between 4 farms, very hilly country, they idle a lot, the hubs are always in, and the winter blend fuel don't help...
All I know is I about died when I saw diesel at 5.25 yesterday.....
I'm gonna have to start filtering waste oil to stay alive...
Rock
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
No it wouldn't be. The last 460 I drove got better than that empty.
When you have to do all of this, I doubt that there's much that you can do to improve your mileage.
WhistlinDiesel
Registered User
Another question...My relay for the glow plugs was clicking and had new plugs, but wouldnt start without always being plugged in. I eventually found out that the clicking was bad, so I ordered a glow plug controller and relay from Diesel RX. Now my wait to start and glow plugs have no power, I put all the wiring back where it was on the original. Does anyone have ideas or a wire diagram? Im sorry, Im 16 and im still trying to learn these older trucks. Thank you
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
WhistlinDiesel,
The GP controller you have is for 7.3l and is different than the ones on the early 80's 6.9's.
How it should work is the WTS light should go on for 8-15 seconds and then go off. It will start to cycle to keep the glow plugs warm. (Click, click, click, etc.) When the light goes off is your queue to start the engine.
The 7.3 controller is a smart controller. It works off of resistance of the glow plug power system. If it senses a problem it will put the WTS light on for one second, and then you will hear the system keep cycling. (It will go click, click, click, like you mentioned.) That generally means you have 2 or more bad glow plugs. Or your GP wiring harness is not in good shape. BTW Classic Diesel Designs sells the GP wiring harnesses. Most original GP harnesses at this point are not in very good shape.
So your old GP controller might be working fine and perhaps your wiring is the issue. (Broken wires, bad connectors, or corroded.) Could be your controller was bad and is needing to be replaced. ALSO BE AWARE NEVER ASSUME ANY NEW PART WORKS EITHER! A constant lesson learned on this site, sad by very common. So your new one likely works, but do not assume it does.
It is also common for the wires that supply the power to the GP controller melt down the platic connector generally found on the passenger side of the engine as I recall. So also check that connection to make sure it is ok. (Yellow wires as I recall.) Look for corrosion or for a melted connector or wiring.
So your controller is doing nothing now. You may have forgotten to put on the ground wire or not gotten a good ground connection so check that. (Marked "ground" below.) You also may not be getting power. So make sure the ignition switch is supplying +12v with the ignition switch in the "on" position to the terminal that is marked below with the red lettering "Ignition switch". Make sure the yellow wires are sending +12v (This is power from the batteries.) And that the white wire is hooked up or the solenoid will not work. Thus not send power to the glow plugs via the post marked in green below.
How it works more or less is the ignition switch gives power to the controller and the solenoid on top of it. When the controller gets power from the ignition switch it turns on and then grounds out the white wire. (-12v) That activates the solenoid and thus it sends power by making a connection between the two big terminals. That connection to the batteries sends power to the glow plug wiring harness. If the controller senses something is wrong with the resitance (Dead glow plugs or bad wiring.) it turns off the constant ground to the white wire and cycles it instead. (Click, click, click.) The WTS light only goes on when it sends constant power to the glow plugs. If everything is working it will put on the WTS light for 8-15 seconds and then cycle.
Here is a diagram for you.
The GP controller you have is for 7.3l and is different than the ones on the early 80's 6.9's.
How it should work is the WTS light should go on for 8-15 seconds and then go off. It will start to cycle to keep the glow plugs warm. (Click, click, click, etc.) When the light goes off is your queue to start the engine.
The 7.3 controller is a smart controller. It works off of resistance of the glow plug power system. If it senses a problem it will put the WTS light on for one second, and then you will hear the system keep cycling. (It will go click, click, click, like you mentioned.) That generally means you have 2 or more bad glow plugs. Or your GP wiring harness is not in good shape. BTW Classic Diesel Designs sells the GP wiring harnesses. Most original GP harnesses at this point are not in very good shape.
So your old GP controller might be working fine and perhaps your wiring is the issue. (Broken wires, bad connectors, or corroded.) Could be your controller was bad and is needing to be replaced. ALSO BE AWARE NEVER ASSUME ANY NEW PART WORKS EITHER! A constant lesson learned on this site, sad by very common. So your new one likely works, but do not assume it does.
It is also common for the wires that supply the power to the GP controller melt down the platic connector generally found on the passenger side of the engine as I recall. So also check that connection to make sure it is ok. (Yellow wires as I recall.) Look for corrosion or for a melted connector or wiring.
So your controller is doing nothing now. You may have forgotten to put on the ground wire or not gotten a good ground connection so check that. (Marked "ground" below.) You also may not be getting power. So make sure the ignition switch is supplying +12v with the ignition switch in the "on" position to the terminal that is marked below with the red lettering "Ignition switch". Make sure the yellow wires are sending +12v (This is power from the batteries.) And that the white wire is hooked up or the solenoid will not work. Thus not send power to the glow plugs via the post marked in green below.
How it works more or less is the ignition switch gives power to the controller and the solenoid on top of it. When the controller gets power from the ignition switch it turns on and then grounds out the white wire. (-12v) That activates the solenoid and thus it sends power by making a connection between the two big terminals. That connection to the batteries sends power to the glow plug wiring harness. If the controller senses something is wrong with the resitance (Dead glow plugs or bad wiring.) it turns off the constant ground to the white wire and cycles it instead. (Click, click, click.) The WTS light only goes on when it sends constant power to the glow plugs. If everything is working it will put on the WTS light for 8-15 seconds and then cycle.
Here is a diagram for you.
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