Truck wont start unless i jump solenoid

[94250turbo]

As the title says... Im pretty sure the solenoid (fender mounted one) is good. But i have to jump it for my truck to start. I cleaned the little ground wire that goes to the frame and still nothing.

 

[TronDD]

If you have to jump the solenoid, what makes you think it's good? Are you jumping from the big lug with all the wires to the little connector towards the top or all the way across to the other large lug?

If you jump from large lug to small, and the truck starts, your solenoid is good and your ignition switch might be bad or just out of adjustment.

Tim.

 

[94250turbo]

I jumped the small lug with the boot and it started thats y i think the noid is good.

 

[TronDD]

You can check for power at the small wire using a meter or a test light. It should get power when the key is in the start position. Then, I'd check the ignition for adjustment. Might just need a new ignition switch.

Details here:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...what-you-think&p=735785&viewfull=1#post735785

Tim.

 

[madpogue]

Automatic or manual transmission?

 

[94250turbo]

You can check for power at the small wire using a meter or a test light. It should get power when the key is in the start position. Then, I'd check the ignition for adjustment. Might just need a new ignition switch.

Details here:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...what-you-think&p=735785&viewfull=1#post735785

Tim.

I have power at the wire with the key on. Even if I have no problem turning my ignition with the key in it, it could still be the ignition switch? I just don't want to tear into it for nothing.

 

[94250turbo]

Automatic or manual transmission?

Automatic

 

[madpogue]

Try it in Neutral. Also try holding the key in START with one hand, while moving the shifter from Neutral toward Reverse, then toward Drive, with the other. If that changes anything, the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is the prime suspect. Also called Trans Range Sensor (TRS) or Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS). Mounted on the tranny. May just need adjustment.

 

[TronDD]

I have power at the wire with the key on. Even if I have no problem turning my ignition with the key in it, it could still be the ignition switch? I just don't want to tear into it for nothing.

If you have power to the wire, it should engage the relay. ????

The ignition switch is 2 distinct parts. The mechanical part the key goes into and turns, and the electrical part that makes the wiring connections. The electrical part is further down the column, under the dash. The two are connected with an actuator rod.

With the auto trans, maybe it's the neutral/park switch. But again, if you have power to the control wire... Maybe the connector at the relay isn't making a connection somehow?

Tim.

 

[madpogue]

When you say "key on", do you mean the RUN position or the START position? If the _small_ wire is energized with the key in the RUN position, something's wrong. It should only be energized with the key in the START position.

If that's what's happening, maybe the relay isn't grounding properly. Unlike the GP relay, the starter relay completes the coil circuit via grounding through the mounting plate.

 

[94250turbo]

When you say "key on", do you mean the RUN position or the START position? If the _small_ wire is energized with the key in the RUN position, something's wrong. It should only be energized with the key in the START position.

If that's what's happening, maybe the relay isn't grounding properly. Unlike the GP relay, the starter relay completes the coil circuit via grounding through the mounting plate.

In the "run" position it has power. Just to be clear im referring to the wire with the boot that slips on to the noid.

 

[Whitetrash]

Grab a test light, connect the test light to a ground and stick the other end in the boot, then have some start the truck, the light should flash on and off if your ign switch is still good, if no flash it needs replacement

 

[madpogue]

In the "run" position it has power. Just to be clear im referring to the wire with the boot that slips on to the noid.

Yeah, that's the coil trigger wire, from the ignition switch (via the tranny switch). It should NOT be energized except when you're holding the key in the START position. The way it is now, if the relay is good, the starter would run constantly. Gotta wonder if you maybe have more than one problem....

 

[Whitetrash]

When My truck died I tried starting it for a hour, wouldn't start, I eventually had to do the same thing by crossing the posts on the solenoid cause it stopped working with the key, I managed to weld the plates in the solenoid together cuz I got it so hot lol

 

[94250turbo]

It was the MLPS.