Transmission shop near Yakima? (or Puyallup)
- Thread starter Cubey
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Considering that I have three filters on the fuel system (metal cans in line before FSV, Racor W/S, stock filter) I could probably dump it in directly.
Wow, yeah, the owner of that trans shop is completely full of it. Either he's ignorant about trans cooling or he's malicious and tried to ruin it on purpose, figuring it would last long enough to get me far away, then fail, so he could say "that's too bad, you need to bring it in as a carry in, up here" which basically means I pay another shop for another trans rebuild elsewhere, because: A) it would cost me $2000+ to come up to his shop, and B) why on earth would I trust him again?
The rad cooler makes a WORLD of difference, especially low speed/stop and go. It stays around 165-170'sh stop and go now. I haven't seen it reach 220 at all even under hard acceleration to merge on the interstate. Stop and go at full operating temp before was 220-280'ish (if not 300). Yeah that's the hot side but STILL! The fluid should NOT be allowed to get that hot!
It's no wonder they had to shut down one of their two locations, if this is the kind of customer service they do/work they put out. That should have been a red flag, I guess.
You couldn't even hardly touch the aftermarket cooler before. Now? The side where hot is entering is pretty hot, but doesn't instantly try to melt your skin like before, and the cool side is FAR cooler. You can hold your finger there on the cooled side of the cooler forever basically. You couldn't touch either side of the cooler for more than half a second before.
I sure hope he didn't make me ruin the seals in the trans, not to mention all that fluid. I'll still put the deep pan, and second temp gauge (I guess anyway, unless I just move this gauge's probe to the pan). I reckon I'll just drain the torque converter too since the pan is getting dropped to put on the deep one, so yeah I'll just replace all the fluid to be sure it's not cooked, even though it's still nice and red. What a big waste of money (about $85 of ATF).
How I went about it: I found a good place to park for a few hours to let everything cool off. I blew air through one way, used half a can of KK one way, used the second half of KK the other way, and blew air the other way. Nero had already cleaned it out with brake cleaner too. It was coming out clear from the get-go with KK, so it might have been a waste of $17, but oh well. It's as clean as it could possibly get since no shop anywhere wanted to flush it.
The rad cooler makes a WORLD of difference, especially low speed/stop and go. It stays around 165-170'sh stop and go now. I haven't seen it reach 220 at all even under hard acceleration to merge on the interstate. Stop and go at full operating temp before was 220-280'ish (if not 300). Yeah that's the hot side but STILL! The fluid should NOT be allowed to get that hot!
It's no wonder they had to shut down one of their two locations, if this is the kind of customer service they do/work they put out. That should have been a red flag, I guess.
You couldn't even hardly touch the aftermarket cooler before. Now? The side where hot is entering is pretty hot, but doesn't instantly try to melt your skin like before, and the cool side is FAR cooler. You can hold your finger there on the cooled side of the cooler forever basically. You couldn't touch either side of the cooler for more than half a second before.
I sure hope he didn't make me ruin the seals in the trans, not to mention all that fluid. I'll still put the deep pan, and second temp gauge (I guess anyway, unless I just move this gauge's probe to the pan). I reckon I'll just drain the torque converter too since the pan is getting dropped to put on the deep one, so yeah I'll just replace all the fluid to be sure it's not cooked, even though it's still nice and red. What a big waste of money (about $85 of ATF).
How I went about it: I found a good place to park for a few hours to let everything cool off. I blew air through one way, used half a can of KK one way, used the second half of KK the other way, and blew air the other way. Nero had already cleaned it out with brake cleaner too. It was coming out clear from the get-go with KK, so it might have been a waste of $17, but oh well. It's as clean as it could possibly get since no shop anywhere wanted to flush it.
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Time for more ranting because I can't friggin sleep.
I know dang well I heard it slipping into third at low speeds when it was running so hot around town. It was a short delay but still. That's what overheating transmissions tend to do.
The shop basically owes me going through it again due to the shop owner's horrible advice and refusal to do what I wanted to ensure it wouldn't run hot. But will the owner admit he was wrong and make things right? I fear he won't. And since it's cooling properly now (no thanks to him) and probably not showing slipping, he'll probably just say "it's fine" and brush me off, again. But who knows about the plates and clutches? It could end up failing way sooner than it would have if he hadn't acted that way.
I can't force him to redo it, so I'm at his mercy.
And since it was a carry in/out, Nero would have to pull and install it again since the shop didn't do the labor.
That shop isn't getting a good review from me, more than likely.
I guess I better start saving for another transmission rebuild in another 12k miles, after I catch up from this and repairs from the slipping out of park wreck to my RV and trailer (which hopefully insurance compensates me for fairly).
It's purely wild speculation with no evidence, but the way that guy was acting, it wouldn't shock me if he purposely ground down the parking gear on one tooth to sabotage it so it would randomly not engage in park depending where the gear is when put into park. Yeah, I really don't trust the man much.
Every shop I have ever used since around 2010 has shafted me. Wish I was joking. Well one exception actually, a muffler shop around Sacramento in 2014ish did an honest muffler replacement. Kind of a low bar though.
I know dang well I heard it slipping into third at low speeds when it was running so hot around town. It was a short delay but still. That's what overheating transmissions tend to do.
The shop basically owes me going through it again due to the shop owner's horrible advice and refusal to do what I wanted to ensure it wouldn't run hot. But will the owner admit he was wrong and make things right? I fear he won't. And since it's cooling properly now (no thanks to him) and probably not showing slipping, he'll probably just say "it's fine" and brush me off, again. But who knows about the plates and clutches? It could end up failing way sooner than it would have if he hadn't acted that way.
I can't force him to redo it, so I'm at his mercy.
And since it was a carry in/out, Nero would have to pull and install it again since the shop didn't do the labor.
That shop isn't getting a good review from me, more than likely.
I guess I better start saving for another transmission rebuild in another 12k miles, after I catch up from this and repairs from the slipping out of park wreck to my RV and trailer (which hopefully insurance compensates me for fairly).
It's purely wild speculation with no evidence, but the way that guy was acting, it wouldn't shock me if he purposely ground down the parking gear on one tooth to sabotage it so it would randomly not engage in park depending where the gear is when put into park. Yeah, I really don't trust the man much.
Every shop I have ever used since around 2010 has shafted me. Wish I was joking. Well one exception actually, a muffler shop around Sacramento in 2014ish did an honest muffler replacement. Kind of a low bar though.
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Spoke to him this morning. Now he says that he previously said he couldn't flush it "that day", that much over 220 was bad blah blah. That I never said it was getting 220-260+. Whatever. He said if the fluid isn't burned and it's not slipping now, it's fine, that 3-5 mins of 300ish isn't that bad, that it would take 30 miles to do damage to fluid.
re: "that day", i was scheduled to bring it that day and i previously expressed interest in having it flushed. he didn't accomodate for it.
i guess that's all that can be said. I'm stuck with any possible shortened transmission life from repeated short term overheats and a few 3rd gear slippage shifts. it's definitely being cooled properly now.
re: "that day", i was scheduled to bring it that day and i previously expressed interest in having it flushed. he didn't accomodate for it.
i guess that's all that can be said. I'm stuck with any possible shortened transmission life from repeated short term overheats and a few 3rd gear slippage shifts. it's definitely being cooled properly now.
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Could always bypass it at my house, and inconvenience him with flushing it out and pretend you didn't hook it upor did you say you hooked it up already?
I'd have to pay $150 for him to flush it. Not gonna happen now. It's hooked up and running 50-100 degrees cooler than it was.
and i told him it's hooked up.
oh and I'm scheduled to take it in next Wednesday. I'll get the deep pan put on first, at his advice, so he can make sure nothing is leaking. that'll give me a couple days to get that done. I'll drop the trailer again, so it doesn't have to be dragged all over the place, since Lucy has a Tuesday afternoon vet appointment.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
We suggested you get that rad cooler in line!! Glad you finally got it!! Running both temp gauges would give you the best information as you drive down the road. You said the trans fluid is still nice and red. Does it smell burnt?
Also when you take it to him for the deep pan install, I would want to see the insides of the pan immediately when it drops. See how much break-in material is in that pan. The last thing I would do is nit-pick and b&*tch, it seems you two are already at odds, kill him with kindness and explain you feel taken advantage of, and that you need to make your dollars stretch further than most. (I am speaking from experience here, I grew up in a $1500 house, I have lived a lot of my life below the poverty line)
The new fluids handle temps much much better, and I would think a C6 could handle some abuse for 3-5 miles. If it was slipping, maybe something else internally was subpar, parts, tolerances... etc.
Since it was a carry-in rebuild, would you mind sharing how much you paid for the rebuild? 3-spd hydramatics should be the cheapest to rebuild, and the easiest to modify for strength and durability.
If you want a second opinion, and I know it's a long shot, Transmission Pros in Mitchell SD has been in business a very long time. Larry, the original owner, and my dad have been friends for 40+ years. His 2 boys took over the shop. For my dad's birthday/Christmas, and the next few years, I had them rebuild the T350C in his '79 C10. We dropped the pickup off, and a few days later picked it up. To R&R, Build it, and replace the pitman arm was under $1k. It's been flawless for 12 years, we have grossed 13-14k a couple of times remodeling a house with 2.56 rear gear, so the TC had to work OT those days. I am no trans expert, but I was told they used a low stall T400 TC, and a few other goodies inside that will outlive the vehicle. We only have the rad cooler, no external air to air.
I watch Precision Transmission on youtube, and that Father/son team seems to be one I would also trust. They are in NW Texas somewhere. They compete in drag racing on the side. They really seem to know their stuff with domestics.
I am sorry you feel slighted, but there are good people out there in their own shops. Don't be penny-wise and pound foolish. Also, maybe you could have one of those shops install the GV after the bank account recovers, and have them give it a 2nd look....drop the VB, pressures, etc.
Also when you take it to him for the deep pan install, I would want to see the insides of the pan immediately when it drops. See how much break-in material is in that pan. The last thing I would do is nit-pick and b&*tch, it seems you two are already at odds, kill him with kindness and explain you feel taken advantage of, and that you need to make your dollars stretch further than most. (I am speaking from experience here, I grew up in a $1500 house, I have lived a lot of my life below the poverty line)
The new fluids handle temps much much better, and I would think a C6 could handle some abuse for 3-5 miles. If it was slipping, maybe something else internally was subpar, parts, tolerances... etc.
Since it was a carry-in rebuild, would you mind sharing how much you paid for the rebuild? 3-spd hydramatics should be the cheapest to rebuild, and the easiest to modify for strength and durability.
If you want a second opinion, and I know it's a long shot, Transmission Pros in Mitchell SD has been in business a very long time. Larry, the original owner, and my dad have been friends for 40+ years. His 2 boys took over the shop. For my dad's birthday/Christmas, and the next few years, I had them rebuild the T350C in his '79 C10. We dropped the pickup off, and a few days later picked it up. To R&R, Build it, and replace the pitman arm was under $1k. It's been flawless for 12 years, we have grossed 13-14k a couple of times remodeling a house with 2.56 rear gear, so the TC had to work OT those days. I am no trans expert, but I was told they used a low stall T400 TC, and a few other goodies inside that will outlive the vehicle. We only have the rad cooler, no external air to air.
I watch Precision Transmission on youtube, and that Father/son team seems to be one I would also trust. They are in NW Texas somewhere. They compete in drag racing on the side. They really seem to know their stuff with domestics.
I am sorry you feel slighted, but there are good people out there in their own shops. Don't be penny-wise and pound foolish. Also, maybe you could have one of those shops install the GV after the bank account recovers, and have them give it a 2nd look....drop the VB, pressures, etc.
I'm very bad at judging the odor of ATF. A freshly opened jug has a burned smell to me.
I'm going to do the deep pan install myself. And he is fine with that. In fact he wants me to do that before I bring it, so he can be sure it's not leaking from the pan gasket.
I will use the drain plug to minimize mess since it's going to be done in the street outside of Nero's house. There was a huge mess before from pulling it, so I'll try to avoid making a mess. I'll use my light grey pan, so I can see if there's any material in it (vs a cheap black pan). I'll be sure to take pictures and if it's extra nasty, I'll also see about saving some of the fluid in a clear container to show the shop owner. And not wipe the pan either if it looks really bad, so he can see what it looks like for himself.
He did finally agree to inspect the shifter adjustment for nothing, but he said if it needs actual adjusting or whatever of linkages, he'll have to charge for that.
Well, from what I have read, an overheating trans can cause slippage. So, it could have just been that. It was showing 280-300ish (hard to judge exactly) when it was happening.
Just under $2300. (plus about $68 in ATF, I bought that) Other shops in WA/OR were quoting anywhere from $2,000 to $3500. Yeah it's bloody expensive up here. I had no choice really, since it was removed and put in their shop already. And it was on it's last leg, it might have lasted 1,000 more miles or it might have lasted 100 more. It needed a lot of hard parts. Look further back in the thread where I listed parts/shift kit put in.
The turbo might have been an issue if a shop was R&Ring too, since it did have to be unbolted and totally reinstalled too, more or less. The oil drain hose was hardened and cracked in half like it was plastic, despite being rubber originally.
I've been to Mitchell SD but it was with the F250, not the RV. That's a long way from here. I had planned to go over to SD this summer, but not now. I have to catch up, budget wise.
Yeah, I do too now and then. I actually had considered having them rebuild it a couple times when I was in the area, but I figured "if it ain't broken, don't fix it". Kinda regret it now. The slipping only began around April/May this year, so... it's not like I was putting it off with that happening. I was even in Amarillo again a couple times back in Oct/Nov last year.
I may see if a driveline shop in Centriallia or Longview/Kelso can shorten a driveshaft this week for a decent price, if the RV salvage yard I'll be going to tomorrow has one. Then go ahead and install the GV before I leave Nero's next week. I'll just have to see what the turnaround time would be for the shortening/balancing and how much, assuming I can even get my hands on a spare driveshaft.
Just the other day, one of my high balance credit cards suddenly offered me 0.9% APR for 9 months on new purchases, so that gonna help for sure, if I decide to do that. Considering I'd get 1% cash back on the purchases too, that's not bad.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
How's the trans doing? Did the builder look at the parking prawl for you?
Temps still stay much cooler now that the radiator cooler is inline? did you get the deep pan installed? What about the 2nd temp gauge?
Can't remember, did you install a filter on the cooler lines? So many questions!!!
Temps still stay much cooler now that the radiator cooler is inline? did you get the deep pan installed? What about the 2nd temp gauge?
Can't remember, did you install a filter on the cooler lines? So many questions!!!
It's running nice and cool now. I did see the hot side get up around 200-210'ish the other day, but admittedly it was a steep back highway climb at a lower speed (40-45). I got to my destination shortly after (stop and go once I got into the small town). I left it idling when it was still showing ~200-210, and the outlet side of the cooler was nice and cool. Inlet side was a bit hot but I could hold my finger on it. So, it seems to be doing great. Before I could barely touch the cooler at all. Water temps are running normal, as one would expect.
I haven't put a filter yet because I'm a dork. I reckon I should have gotten one for the $10 extra and returned the lower priced one I had delivered to Nero's, but I didn't. I'll be back at his house, probably Sunday evening, and it's not very far, so not much point now. After I get there, I will be putting the filter on.
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I also need to redo the cooler lines a tiny bit. Dunno who it was here on OB who said the lines were 3/8" but they were incorrect, at least for this vehicle. I bought a bunch of 3/8" hose and starting cutting it up to fit in the lines expecting that to be right, and it wasn't. All the barbs except the new aux cooler are 5/16", and the filer I will be installing is also 5/16", so I also ordered some 3/8" to 5/16" brass reducers, since I really don't like how loose 3/8" hose feels on the 5/16" barbs.
When I hooked up the rad cooler, I had to really tighten down the clamp on a 3/8" hose end to the radiator cooler's 5/16" outlet barb to keep it from leaking, and it seems dodgy to have it like that. I can't get 5/16" barb fittings to directly fit the aux cooler's big O-ring fitting (10AN or whatever it was) so I'll have to reduce it that way. I'll put them all behind the grill, so they'll be easy to watch for leaks, and fairly easy to access and maintain should they ever need attention.
They shop isn't going to do anything for me, by the sound of it. He blamed the shifter linkage and said he'd eyeball it to see if it's something quick to adjust, but anything more will cost. I'll be taking it to the shop on Wednesday, after I put on deep pan.
Deep pan/pan gauge still not installed yet, but thought I'd mention this little bit.
Stop and go on a long, I guess long uphill for miles in the city, lots of stop and go, the hot side got up close to 260 a bit. It felt like it was shuttering a bit taking off from stops at around 260, so I guess the torque converter gets a bit pissy about being that taking off from a stop when it's that hot. I guess in the future, if I see that and I see a good place to stop, I should park it for 5-10 minutes to let it cool off. It doesn't seem to take long to cool off once the engine is off.
Going up a steep grade, slow, curvy back highway, it got a somewhere between 220 and 260 but never got to 260. The tons of stop and go on miles of an uphill is what did that, so it's still doing much better.
Got to Nero's, but the last couple miles to his house was on pretty flat ground, so it had cooled down to 220'ish by then, and the cooler was touchable on both sides (in/out). I wish I could have checked it when it was showing 260, but oh well. I suspect it's fine.
Stop and go on a long, I guess long uphill for miles in the city, lots of stop and go, the hot side got up close to 260 a bit. It felt like it was shuttering a bit taking off from stops at around 260, so I guess the torque converter gets a bit pissy about being that taking off from a stop when it's that hot. I guess in the future, if I see that and I see a good place to stop, I should park it for 5-10 minutes to let it cool off. It doesn't seem to take long to cool off once the engine is off.
Going up a steep grade, slow, curvy back highway, it got a somewhere between 220 and 260 but never got to 260. The tons of stop and go on miles of an uphill is what did that, so it's still doing much better.
Got to Nero's, but the last couple miles to his house was on pretty flat ground, so it had cooled down to 220'ish by then, and the cooler was touchable on both sides (in/out). I wish I could have checked it when it was showing 260, but oh well. I suspect it's fine.
I decided to go a different route by way of Crater Lake, so I took the time this morning to wire in the pan temp gauge. It generally runs around 150-165 but it climbed near 180 after a very steep slow city street with a stop sign at the top, turning onto another hill. Then I was at my destination (a dog park) so that was stopped. So, it was understandably warm.
Torque converter gets crazy hot but the pan seems ok.
I guess the transmission in this just has a life expectancy of 80-100k miles due to the heat. But this deep pan and bigger cooler should help.
Torque converter gets crazy hot but the pan seems ok.
I guess the transmission in this just has a life expectancy of 80-100k miles due to the heat. But this deep pan and bigger cooler should help.
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Phew. The trans cooler got a workout this morning for sure. There was about an 11 mile hard climb on I-84 between Pendleton and La Grande, Oregon.
The pan temp got up around 190-195 for a bit (in the range of 5-10 mins) near the end, and the torque converter output was around 280-290.
The speed in 2nd gear was around 30-35mph. Water about 198 and EGT around 900 mostly but at the end was around 1000.
I considered stopping at the first rest area half way up, but the pan was only about 180 then. In the future, I'll stop every chance I get to let things cool down for 30-60 minutes.
It was fairly cool out too, 70-75 I'd guess. Wouldn't want to cross the mountains if it's 100 unless I stop at every pullout I see. And there were lots.
A car was pulled off in a huge gravel pull out on the climb up, with a tow truck loading it up. I guess he blew a gasket going too fast.
I think it's safe to say that the factory cooler being 1/3 the size of the new one was extremely undersized, if it's seeing those temps with a 3x bigger cooler and a deep aluminum pan.
The pan temp got up around 190-195 for a bit (in the range of 5-10 mins) near the end, and the torque converter output was around 280-290.
The speed in 2nd gear was around 30-35mph. Water about 198 and EGT around 900 mostly but at the end was around 1000.
I considered stopping at the first rest area half way up, but the pan was only about 180 then. In the future, I'll stop every chance I get to let things cool down for 30-60 minutes.
It was fairly cool out too, 70-75 I'd guess. Wouldn't want to cross the mountains if it's 100 unless I stop at every pullout I see. And there were lots.
A car was pulled off in a huge gravel pull out on the climb up, with a tow truck loading it up. I guess he blew a gasket going too fast.
I think it's safe to say that the factory cooler being 1/3 the size of the new one was extremely undersized, if it's seeing those temps with a 3x bigger cooler and a deep aluminum pan.
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