TPS and Transmission Range Sensor questions

[93yacht]

Truck was shifting hard when I took it for a test run. Before I swapped the injector pump it would shift hard and early at 1/2 throttle or less but shift smoothly when throttle was above 1/2 way. OD off light just started flashing today so I cruised it back home and pulled the codes, got 67, 43 and 63. Unhooked the batteries for about 45 minutes,hooked them back up and took it for a quick ride again...same thing, light started flashing, pulled the codes and same codes

I previously thought the problem that I was having was the metering valve sticking, when it's warm and in drive or reverse it will start running rough and shooting black smoke out of the exhaust, same when coming to a stop. If I hold the breaks and bring the idle up some it will smoothen out and stop smoking, also it doesn't do it when in neutral and coming to a stop, only when trying to stop in gear.
Code 43 TPS below idle spec...

Set it to 1.07 at idle and 4.15 at WOT

Code 63 Throttle Position (TP) circuit fault below minimum voltage

Am I right in assuming that these 2 codes are both related to the TPS being out of range? It was at a 1.24 when I checked it, I then set it to 1.07 at idle and 4.15 at WOT.

Code 67 Neutral Pressure Switch (NPS) circuit failure, circuit open.

From my research here, I believe that something is wrong with the Transmission Range Sensor. Is this the plastic electrical piece that is on the passenger side of the transmission? I unplugged and looked at it and it has transmission fluid in it...Am I right in assuming that it is wasted simply because trans fluid found its way up in there? And the question that I am most concerned about, can the rough running and black smoke when warm and idling in gear or reverse be related to the sensor being wasted?

Thanks.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

code 43? are you sure? try pulling your codes again.

your TPS is set incorrectly.try for 1.2V idle and as close to 4V WOT as you can.if you get 1.2V idle and low WOT voltage,then change the axis (don't just keep leaving the front in the same place) of the sensor so you can get 1.2V idle near 4V WOT.

no,the range sensor is the large plastic one at the gear linkage on the drivers side of the transmission.

yes,if you see trans fluid inside the bulkhead connector (solenoid pack plug) on the pass side behind the heat shield,then you need to replace the solenoid pack.

 

[93yacht]

code 43? are you sure? try pulling your codes again.

your TPS is set incorrectly.try for 1.2V idle and as close to 4V WOT as you can.if you get 1.2V idle and low WOT voltage,then change the axis (don't just keep leaving the front in the same place) of the sensor so you can get 1.2V idle near 4V WOT.

no,the range sensor is the large plastic one at the gear linkage on the drivers side of the transmission.

yes,if you see trans fluid inside the bulkhead connector (solenoid pack plug) on the pass side behind the heat shield,then you need to replace the solenoid pack.

Yes, I got code 43..unhooked the batteries for about 45 minutes, hooked them back up and took it for a quick drive and OD Off light started flashing again. Pulled the codes once more and it was the same codes.

Currently have batteries unhooked, will try again tommorow and pull codes once more.

Uh-oh, now I feel like an idiot, I went off the information from the old tech article where it said "some where between 1.05V and 1.1V"...I will correct this in the AM and bring it to 1.2V.

Will be taking a look at the range sensor tommorow to see if it can possibly be cleaned up or have to buy a new one along with the solenoid pack plug.

Thanks for the reply and the pointers

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

all i can find online is that 43 = bad 02 sensor (or says it needs to run and warm up,technically)

40 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE RIGHT OR REAR SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: LEFT SENSOR

43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
(M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/2digit.html

few other sites,list 43 as the same.

 

[93yacht]

all i can find online is that 43 = bad 02 sensor (or says it needs to run and warm up,technically)

40 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE RIGHT OR REAR SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: LEFT SENSOR

43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
(M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/2digit.html

few other sites,list 43 as the same.

I got the definition of Code 43 from the book that came with the code reader (INNOVA)
43: (Trucks ONLY): Throttle position sensor below idle spec (Diesel).

Question, would a faulty range sensor, bad solenoid plug, or RPM gauge not working cause it to run rough and stall when warm and idling in drive or reverse, but smoothen out when I bring the idle up some?

 

[tbrumm]

Is this the plastic electrical piece that is on the passenger side of the transmission? I unplugged and looked at it and it has transmission fluid in it...Am I right in assuming that it is wasted simply because trans fluid found its way up in there?

The oil in the trans harness connector means the seal on the inside of the solenoid pack inside the transmission has failed. You will need to get a new (or rebuilt) solenoid pack for inside the transmission. Not a hard job to change it out, but messy, The pan will need to be dropped. You will also need a good inch/pounds torque wrench for installing the new pack.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I got the definition of Code 43 from the book that came with the code reader (INNOVA)
43: (Trucks ONLY): Throttle position sensor below idle spec (Diesel).

Question, would a faulty range sensor, bad solenoid plug, or RPM gauge not working cause it to run rough and stall when warm and idling in drive or reverse, but smoothen out when I bring the idle up some?

oh that's odd but no matter.that code is easy to see why your getting it.you'll have that one gone in just a min or two with some tweaking.

oh yeah,sorry i forgot to answer that part of your question.

no.there is no sensor related to the e4od that will cause the engine to run rough.the engine is all mechanical.for diagnosing engine troubles we need to use old school methods.no codes to be read to help point us in the right direction here.
suspect the injectors for a rough idle,that is after you know 100% you don't have air in your system.

 

[93yacht]

The oil in the trans harness connector means the seal on the inside of the solenoid pack inside the transmission has failed. You will need to get a new (or rebuilt) solenoid pack for inside the transmission. Not a hard job to change it out, but messy, The pan will need to be dropped. You will also need a good inch/pounds torque wrench for installing the new pack.

Thank you. I have a good torque wrench, later tonight I will be searching for a replacement solenoid pack and transmission range sensor

 

[OLDBULL8]

The codes your getting, some are false, there is no code 43. You have to hold the throttle to the floor all the time when retrieving codes.

To cancel all codes, just interrupt the code retrieving, in other words just shut the key off. Disconnecting the batteries, some times do not cancel all codes.

You probable don't need a new MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor), that is the one on the shifting shaft on the drivers side. If you insist on a new MLPS, any parts store carries them, there around $52.

Hard to see the writing on them, but it says "these two lines have to match up with the shift lever in Neutral"

 

[OLDBULL8]

Adjusting the FIPL/TPS set it at 1.2 VDC, the top voltage cannot be adjusted, it is what it is after adjusting the idle setting.

Yes, the RPM Tach Sensor has to be working for the trans to shift correctly, if it's not, you will only have 2nd gear when in Drive and reverse.

 

[93yacht]

Adjusting the FIPL/TPS set it at 1.2 VDC, the top voltage cannot be adjusted, it is what it is after adjusting the idle setting.

Yes, the RPM Tach Sensor has to be working for the trans to shift correctly, if it's not, you will only have 2nd gear when in Drive and reverse.

Ok bull, I will interrupt the code retreiving when pulling the codes this time. However, I did have the throttle all the way to the floor when retrieving the codes both times. Hopefully I will not need a new MLPS, but if I do I'll just have to get one.

Will be bringin the TPS to 1.2V, I messed up and went off the information from the old tech article. Gonna be trying to get the RPM tach working too...I do however have all gears, but hard shifting.

 

[93yacht]

oh that's odd but no matter.that code is easy to see why your getting it.you'll have that one gone in just a min or two with some tweaking.

oh yeah,sorry i forgot to answer that part of your question.

no.there is no sensor related to the e4od that will cause the engine to run rough.the engine is all mechanical.for diagnosing engine troubles we need to use old school methods.no codes to be read to help point us in the right direction here.
suspect the injectors for a rough idle,that is after you know 100% you don't have air in your system.

Brought the TPS to 1.2 at idle and 4.25 at WOT. Cancelled all codes by turning key off when retrieving codes. After that I retrieved the codes and only 67 came up. Took it for a test drive and right when I left the driveway OD Off light started flashing again. Pulled codes again and 67,43, 63 AND 14 (Engine RPM sensor ciruit fault (DIESEL)) came up. Before I test runned her I swapped out the tach sender with one off of a 7.3 TURBO IDI that I have sitting in the barn. It is doing just like the old one was, as soon as I turn the key on it goes to 1200 rpm, BUT, with this one that I just swapped in, when I bring the rpms up, at about half throttle I see some movement, and when I push the pedal down, the rpm gauge goes DOWN...

As for the rough running when idling and in gear, I thought it was the metering valve sticking, but it is doing it ONLY when warm and it doesn't have to be coming to a stop, I can just put it in gear or reverse and she will start running rough and shooting black smoke. Hold the brakes and bring the idle up some and she smoothens out...I'm hoping its not the dang pump. Hopefully this weekend I can flush the injector pump and injectors...I'll have to find the vid/thread that showed an IDI owner putting the injector pump inlet line and the return line into a bottle and running a flush, forgot what product was used but i'll be able to find it again, I do believe it was here. If that doesn't work, then I will either have to sell a few things to buy another pump or look into getting 1 of the 3 I have rebuilt. And if that is the case, might as well look into some new injectors.

Adjusting the FIPL/TPS set it at 1.2 VDC, the top voltage cannot be adjusted, it is what it is after adjusting the idle setting.

Yes, the RPM Tach Sensor has to be working for the trans to shift correctly, if it's not, you will only have 2nd gear when in Drive and reverse.

BULL, did as you said to do and shut the key off when retrieving the codes. After that when I retrieved the codes, only 67 came up. Took it for a test run and before I left the driveway, OD off light started blinking again. Pulled the codes once more and 67, 43, 63 AND 14 (Engine RPM sensor circuit fault (DIESEL)) came up. As for code 14, before I took it for a test run I swapped the tach sender with one from a 7.3 TURBO IDI that I have sitting in the barn. Just like before, when I turn the key on RPM gauge jumps to 1200, BUT, with this one that I just swapped in, at half throttle I am seeing some movement, and when i push the pedal all the way down, the rpm gauge goes DOWN.




Also guys, on this test run trans is searching for gears, almost like its slipping.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Are you pulling the codes with a scanner or by the check engine lite (CEL).

Code 23 is a service code, meaning the throttle was not held down.

Error Codes possible from an 6.9 or 7.3 IDI.

48 56 59 62 66 67 69 91 92 93 94 98 99.

Your 67 code is MLPS out of range

Codes 14 43 63 mean nothing. If your scanning with anything besides a OBDI, your getting scanner false codes.

Edit: Your code 43 is for a gas engine.

 

[trackspeeder]

Brought the TPS to 1.2 at idle and 4.25 at WOT. Cancelled all codes by turning key off when retrieving codes. After that I retrieved the codes and only 67 came up. Took it for a test drive and right when I left the driveway OD Off light started flashing again. Pulled codes again and 67,43, 63 AND 14 (Engine RPM sensor ciruit fault (DIESEL)) came up. Before I test runned her I swapped out the tach sender with one off of a 7.3 TURBO IDI that I have sitting in the barn. It is doing just like the old one was, as soon as I turn the key on it goes to 1200 rpm, BUT, with this one that I just swapped in, when I bring the rpms up, at about half throttle I see some movement, and when I push the pedal down, the rpm gauge goes DOWN...

As for the rough running when idling and in gear, I thought it was the metering valve sticking, but it is doing it ONLY when warm and it doesn't have to be coming to a stop, I can just put it in gear or reverse and she will start running rough and shooting black smoke. Hold the brakes and bring the idle up some and she smoothens out...I'm hoping its not the dang pump. Hopefully this weekend I can flush the injector pump and injectors...I'll have to find the vid/thread that showed an IDI owner putting the injector pump inlet line and the return line into a bottle and running a flush, forgot what product was used but i'll be able to find it again, I do believe it was here. If that doesn't work, then I will either have to sell a few things to buy another pump or look into getting 1 of the 3 I have rebuilt. And if that is the case, might as well look into some new injectors.



BULL, did as you said to do and shut the key off when retrieving the codes. After that when I retrieved the codes, only 67 came up. Took it for a test run and before I left the driveway, OD off light started blinking again. Pulled the codes once more and 67, 43, 63 AND 14 (Engine RPM sensor circuit fault (DIESEL)) came up. As for code 14, before I took it for a test run I swapped the tach sender with one from a 7.3 TURBO IDI that I have sitting in the barn. Just like before, when I turn the key on RPM gauge jumps to 1200, BUT, with this one that I just swapped in, at half throttle I am seeing some movement, and when i push the pedal all the way down, the rpm gauge goes DOWN.




Also guys, on this test run trans is searching for gears, almost like its slipping.

You need to correct the tach sensor and transmission range sensor to stop the gear hunting.

 

[93yacht]

Are you pulling the codes with a scanner or by the check engine lite (CEL).

Code 23 is a service code, meaning the throttle was not held down.

Error Codes possible from an 6.9 or 7.3 IDI.

48 56 59 62 66 67 69 91 92 93 94 98 99.

Your 67 code is MLPS out of range

Codes 14 43 63 mean nothing. If your scanning with anything besides a OBDI, your getting scanner false codes.

Edit: Your code 43 is for a gas engine.

I'm using an OBD 1 scanner...cheap $25 one from Autozone...I'll just forget about the other codes besides 67. I will be searching tonight for the cheapest MLPS and Solenoid pack that I can find online and replacing them when they come in.

You need to correct the tach sensor and transmission range sensor to stop the gear hunting.

Yes, i'll need to dive into it and see what needs to be done to get that working correctly.