TPS and Transmission Range Sensor questions

[93yacht]

For the solenoid pack, is it possible to just replace the plastic piece or maybe the rubber where the transmission fluid is leaking through...I priced the solenoid pack and the cheapest that I found is $95 shipped.

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[FORDF250HDXLT]

no,unfortunately.those are replaced during a reman so it's possible because someone,somewhere is replacing them lol but those are not sold separately.us consumers are stuck replacing the whole pack.

i missed where the tach wasn't reading correctly.as brought up by the others,that's a big priority too.she'll never work correctly with a screwy tach.man,you've got a lot of failed stuff all at once.sounds like someones really neglected her in the past.

 

[93yacht]

no,unfortunately.those are replaced during a reman so it's possible because someone,somewhere is replacing them lol but those are not sold separately.us consumers are stuck replacing the whole pack.

i missed where the tach wasn't reading correctly.as brought up by the others,that's a big priority too.she'll never work correctly with a screwy tach.man,you've got a lot of failed stuff all at once.sounds like someones really neglected her in the past.

well then, guess I will have to pull the trigger and get one new...sucks, what could be a simple fix is now expensive...yes, im reading up on articles on what I need to do in order to troubleshoot what is wrong with the RPM tach....and yes, it was neglected in the past...I'm starting to wonder if I should get out of it while I still can or keep throwing money into it...I like her, but shes getting to be expensive for a vehicle that I will only haul with...

 

[JLtoolman]

The money you are talking about wouldn't be a good payment on a new one, although I know money is hard to come by these days.

I have had the rough idling you described, twice. Once, it was a worn out injection pump (160,000 miles). Once it was a return line sucking air. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator all the time, but it ran okay going down the road.

Look for a voltage or ground problem for your tach issues. Could still be a faulty tach sensor.

 

[93yacht]

The money you are talking about wouldn't be a good payment on a new one, although I know money is hard to come by these days.

I have had the rough idling you described, twice. Once, it was a worn out injection pump (160,000 miles). Once it was a return line sucking air. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator all the time, but it ran okay going down the road.

Look for a voltage or ground problem for your tach issues. Could still be a faulty tach sensor.

money is really the only problem...I'm kinda leaning on a worn injection pump, I believe the one that I had in it before was possibly the original with almost 260,000 miles...The one I put in looks to be in 10 times better condition, but I am unsure of the miles. New return lines, cleaned injector bores, used injectors (unsure mileage) new copper gaskets...I do need to clean up the grounds, I should've done that first...
Question, did the rough idling only happen when warm and in gear or reverse?

 

[93yacht]

Well dang fellas...$100 for the solenoid pack, $30 for the plug and harness kit, another $30 for the MLPS...thats a $160 drop right there...really considering just dropping the E40D and slapping the ZF5 in that I have sittin in the barn, all I need are the pedals, linkages and the stick.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i like the saying i recently came up with; there's nothing cheap about an old cheap idi truck.

when vehicles are neglected in the past,this the outcome.well a couple hundred bucks in a new s-pack and a few sensors is still much,much easier of a job and much,much cheaper than a clutch replacement in a manual trans.

if you know you would rather have a manual trans,then now might be a good time to just do the swap.it's going to be 2-300 in neglected e4 vrs 1k plus for a used zf5 and a new clutch.so you should really want it bad if you do lol.

just imagine repairing a modern diesel engine or trans.......yikes! it can always be worse.

 

[93yacht]

i like the saying i recently came up with; there's nothing cheap about an old cheap idi truck.

when vehicles are neglected in the past,this the outcome.well a couple hundred bucks in a new s-pack and a few sensors is still much,much easier of a job and much,much cheaper than a clutch replacement in a manual trans.

if you know you would rather have a manual trans,then now might be a good time to just do the swap.it's going to be 2-300 in neglected e4 vrs 1k plus for a used zf5 and a new clutch.so you should really want it bad if you do lol.

just imagine repairing a modern diesel engine or trans.......yikes! it can always be worse.

I am starting to realize that, what happen to older vehicles being cheaper to work on lol...I have the zf5 in the barn, it was pulled working with a running 7.3 idi turbo...im sea sawing on the decision because as you said, the solenoid pack and a few sensors are MUCH easier than swapping transmissions...boy oh boy, think its time to pull out those 2 new 6.5 injection pumps that I have and sell them and put the money into the f350...It's not like ill be buying a humvee anytime soon and needing the pumps lol...

And I was talkin with the owner of the diesel perfomance shop here, told him the injectors were $400 for all 8, he laughed so hard I thought he was about to **** himself...he looked at me and said "bub I just picked up injectors for the powerstroke and paid damn near $400 a piece"....wow, im starting to see you better have some deep pockets lol

 

[JLtoolman]

money is really the only problem...I'm kinda leaning on a worn injection pump, I believe the one that I had in it before was possibly the original with almost 260,000 miles...The one I put in looks to be in 10 times better condition, but I am unsure of the miles. New return lines, cleaned injector bores, used injectors (unsure mileage) new copper gaskets...I do need to clean up the grounds, I should've done that first...
Question, did the rough idling only happen when warm and in gear or reverse?

It would idle with no problem. When i had it in any gear, pushed on the throttle to move, and then took my foot off to put it on the brake, it would die. The second time it happened, I had the pump rebuilt again (about 100,000 later) and the condition didn't change. I called the pump rebuilder, and he told me I was sucking air somewhere after the injection pump. I put a return line kit on it, and the problem went away.

If an older vehicle gives you trouble, be it gas or diesel, they will cost to fix. However, these old trucks are really cheap to drive, if you figure everything in. Your truck, new, would cost $70,000 to $80,000. Payments would be close to $1000 a month. My .02 worth.

 

[93yacht]

It would idle with no problem. When i had it in any gear, pushed on the throttle to move, and then took my foot off to put it on the brake, it would die. The second time it happened, I had the pump rebuilt again (about 100,000 later) and the condition didn't change. I called the pump rebuilder, and he told me I was sucking air somewhere after the injection pump. I put a return line kit on it, and the problem went away.

If an older vehicle gives you trouble, be it gas or diesel, they will cost to fix. However, these old trucks are really cheap to drive, if you figure everything in. Your truck, new, would cost $70,000 to $80,000. Payments would be close to $1000 a month. My .02 worth.

See, yours is sounding more like the metering valve, being that it would only die when you fed it fuel then went to stop...Mine is running rough ONLY when warm and in gear or reverse...When I looked at it this afternoon, I'm leaking at the top of the #1 injector at the nut, again...tommorow ill be swappin in one of the old injectors and more than likely have to chane the line, again...I did strip the injector when I swapped it and was putting the nut on...need to have a little more patience....So, with that said, I hope that the problem I am having with the rough idle is sucking air...but I dont know, only does it when warm..maybe the pumps shot...step by step i'll figure it out, plus with the help from the people here...

New 70-80 grand...wow...I kinda knew the truck was worth somethin, before I picked it up I checked KBB and it was right under $4200 in fair condition, granted I dont think its in fair condition...but I did buy it for $750 so I really can't complain...I believe a couple hundreed dollars, few cases of beer, and a couple days work it should be a decent runner...

 

[Clb]

None in youyankit norcal( f.f.) today.
1 idi no topend on it.

 

[93yacht]

None in youyankit norcal( f.f.) today.
1 idi no topend on it.

none?

 

[Clb]

1idi no top end' was a slushbox tho!
We run the dog outta trucks here!
They are in short supply when I head in.

 

[93yacht]

1idi no top end' was a slushbox tho!
We run the dog outta trucks here!
They are in short supply when I head in.

Theres few in my area too...I only know of a couple IDI's on the road here, everybody else wants the new stuff

 

[93yacht]

So I pulled the transmission range sensor today, it was about an 1/8th of an inch off, but the connections were really clean, no burns or anything...fixed it and put it back on, took me about half an hour for a 5 minute job hahahaha...but, took her back on the road and now the OD off light flashes when cruising or slowing down, but goes off when I hit the throttle...at first it was shifting smooth, then went to shifting hard, no searching tho...looking for the parts needed in the marketplace section, if I can't find what I need then I will have to get them new...

Thanks for the help and tips fellas