Timing problems

[Black dawg]

Have you used clear tubing to prove/disprove air? I wouldnt go messing with all those olives without knowing they could be at fault. I dont see where that short almost no start video shows an air problem. There is smoke almost immediatly.

I would also get those injectors pop tested.

 

[JLtoolman]

I use yellow tygon fuel hose from my Faucet fuel pump up to the fuel filter. I can see if I have air in my fuel before it gets to my filter. I had a bad piece of hose that went from the chasis to the mechanical pump. It did not leak fuel, but it would suck flat, and somehow get air in the system.

From living with an IDI for 22 years, I have seen many air in fuel starts. They all produce smoke, if any fuel at all is present. Any time you start a cold IDI, there will be smoke. The sputter that the engine is making, and getting faster and faster equals air being pushed through the ip.

The newer injection pumps do not have to be bled, if they run out of fuel. Once I supply a strong stream of air free fuel, mine will start in 15 to 20 seconds. I accidentally tried that a few weeks ago, when I ran the rear tank dry. I pulled over, switched tanks, let the faucet run for about a minute, started it up and drove away. I don't recommend doing that, as any air in an injection pump does not do it any good.

And thinking about what happened to the collapsed hose, if it has been changed, or not, that is a place for air to get in. Not all fuel hose will stand up to diesel fuel. Parts counter guys will sell you "fuel hose" that will be no good in a couple to five years.

 

[rustygold]

Diesel eats anything rubber and plastic like no one's business.
I think it has to do with the additive in diesel when they refine it.

It biodegrade like ethanol and methanol when it comes to rubber and plastic

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[Sparky95]

On my fuel filter supply line, I have a short hard line that comes out of the lift pump. Then there's a piece of rubber hose that runs up and affixes to the filter housing. I know this has been tampered with because there's a broken fuel pressure gauge installed in a tee fitting in between the line and the housing. The rubber hose has two regular hose clamps on each end. Is this a normal setup that does not require the olive due to not having a hard line? Or is this quite possibly the reason I got the (broke) truck for 1000 dollars?

 

[JLtoolman]

Could be part of your problem, and the reason you got a steal on the truck. From the chasis hard line to the lift pump is a piece of flexible line. What does it look like? The original looks kind of like an "S". If you replace it with a piece of fuel line, and don't do a loop it will look like a"Z". It will have kinks. Any way, replace this line, and redo the line going to the filter. Perfect time to use a piece of clear line right before the filter. The small worm type hose clamps are notorious for leaking. I put yellow Tygon line on mine when I put the Faucet pump on. I tried 2 clamps, and it still leaked (air in, not fuel out). I put crimp on clamps and the problem with air went away. You can also buy fuel injection type clamps at the AP store that work pretty well.

You will not believe how much better you will be with an electric pump. It will prime the line while the glow plugs are heating, even if you have air intrusion. But, if you are getting air after the filter, it has no place to go except through the pump. The filter housing is also a fuel air separation device. It returns some fuel and any air back to the tank.

When you replaced the injection pump, did you replace the two olives that are on the hard line that goes from the filter housing to the injection pump?

 

[JLtoolman]

Also, the broken fuel pressure gauge teed in, says someone has had problems in the past.

 

[riotwarrior]

There is a rubber fuel line down by mechanical lift pump...from feed line from fuel tank to lift pump.

There is supposed to be a hard line from lift pump to fuel filter housing.

Replace line from feed to lift pump and from lift pump to filter housing...

That would be a good suggestion IMHO

JM7.3CW

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Have you checked the elbow at the fuel tank sender yet?

Just get a cheap electric pump and run it to the filter directly from a can of diesel. That will eliminate all incoming air possibilities asside from the injection pump olives, but an electric pump should over power the pump draw and you'd see fuel leaking when not running with pump pressurizing it.

 

[Sparky95]

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Here's what I have. The truck had a bunch of fuel related issues, among other things it got new tanks put in before it sat for several years then I got it. When I installed the lift pump, I don't recall seeing any kinked hoses.

I want this truck to be completely mechanical, I'm even considering a C6 swap.

I just replaced the IP feed olives today, I went to get the lift pump one and couldn't see anywhere it would go.

I haven't checked anything before the lift pump. The FSV is not working though, is there anywhere in the valve that could leak air in?

 

[rustygold]

Put in th clear line right there to see if you are getting air.

If so u would pick up about 4ft of 5/16 and 1/4 fuel hose if you use the front tank by pass the fuel tank selector.

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[JLtoolman]

The line going to the lift pump looks old and flattened.

And I understand wanting it to be mechanical.

Lift pump olive has been deleted.

 

[Sparky95]

So I paid 14 bucks for two 1/4 inch long pieces of rubber.. oh well I have some spare parts now. I'm gonna get me some clear fuel line to replace the filter feed line and if it's bubbly I'll replace the rest of the hoses. I'll also do something about that gauge, it could be leaking air in also. Then if it's still acting screwy I'll do the electric pump and can test. Reckon air in the lines could be causing the skeeter truck effect? I didn't have that problem until I changed the IP which was also the first time I disconnected the IP feed line.

Wouldn't the worm gear clamps with the little bands all the way around the inside seal just as well as fuel injection clamps? Seems to be the same principle, there's nothing cutting down into the hose.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

So I paid 14 bucks for two 1/4 inch long pieces of rubber.. oh well I have some spare parts now. I'm gonna get me some clear fuel line to replace the filter feed line and if it's bubbly I'll replace the rest of the hoses. I'll also do something about that gauge, it could be leaking air in also. Then if it's still acting screwy I'll do the electric pump and can test. Reckon air in the lines could be causing the skeeter truck effect? I didn't have that problem until I changed the IP which was also the first time I disconnected the IP feed line.

Wouldn't the worm gear clamps with the little bands all the way around the inside seal just as well as fuel injection clamps? Seems to be the same principle, there's nothing cutting down into the hose.

I have doubled worm gear clamps on all my fuel and coolant line connections. I did away with factory plastic and push connect fittings. You just gotta check them every now and then to make sure they stay tight. Only the coolant ones have needed retightening i suspect because of the heat.

I still think you need to get an electric pump, a cheap inline. This way you can move fuel without cranking the engine. They are $15. You don't need to keep it permenantly installed, just keep it on and running and bleed air out. You'll never find a leak on the supply fuel line or sender unless you have one. Plus you can start by running it directly to a fuel can and getting it running that way

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0187PS5EC?psc=1

You could have also paid $30 and used a piece of fuel line to elminatet the hardline all together

http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p59/DB2_injection_pump_inlet_fittings.html

 

[icanfixall]

It appears someone has had fuel supply issues in the past because of the modified supply line and gauge. Not really a n issue from where I am. If the original owner had supply problems and cut and installed the rubber hose with a pressure gauge I think he or she was looking for issues back towards the fuel tank. Now please understand. The suction heads in many fuel tanks has broken off and when the tank level reaches 1/4 tank they can't draw any fuel. The suction is too high off the bottom of the tanks. Also when the tank suction head (known as the shower head) breaks up it plugs up the fuel tank switching valve. You can take that fss off but will need to clamp off the hose from the tnaks. Gravity will allow the fuel to pour out till the tank is mt. I use a C clamp or a small pair of vice grips on all the fuel lines. Don't be so tight it cuts the lines. Now remove the fss and drill out the rivets. To replace the rivets all you need is some self tapping screws. Once the valve is apart you may find all kinds of shower head pieces in there. Many will draw down each tank and then drop them to wipe clean all the shower head pieces in the tanks. Mine were large pieces so it was easy to clean. Care must be taken when dropping a tank with fuel in it. The front tank is simple but the rear takes much more work getting it out. The suction and return line to the rear tank needs to be cut free from the frame cross member to be able to safely reach in to remove the lines from the top of the tank. Please have the tank try when reinstalling it. Fluids will move the center of balance more than you might be able to handle when pushing it back up under the tank. Some owners simply remove the beds and work on the tanks that way. Just depends on what you have available for helpers or tools. Lots of tank and bed removal available in this forum too.

 

[Sparky95]

They claimed the aftermarket tanks they put in were the wrong size and that's why it runs outta diesel at 1/4 tank. Sounds iffy to me. I can fill it up waayyyyyy past the full mark on the gauge though, it's like the needle is just in the wrong place.