This ain't good.......

[rubberfish]

Good to hear George
Hey, which model is that, that failed?

 

[geonc]

Sorry to hear about the bum luck Geo. Glad they got you covered though. When I first started to read your post, I was afraid you were going to say something like your bell housing weld let go. I'm intrigued by their claim that faulty injector firing can ruin one of their disks. I guess it seems possible, but I dunno. Anyway, here's hoping it goes back together for you as quick and easy as it came apart.

Mel, That weld is still

Damaged alignment dowels can put side loads on the input shaft/bearing and destroy the discs as well

regarding the inj firing and resulting damage, that is the reason for the dual mass either in the f/w or the disc.
g*s engines are actualy smooth in their firing as opposed to how our diesels pulse with each cyl explosion.

Mis-firing/faulty injectors causes "spikes" that alter the harmonics or the frequency of the otherwise rythmic pulses.

Think along the way annoying vibrations are handeld in machinery.....change the hardness {durometer=rubber hardness} of the isolation/ mounting and you can actually move the frequency of the harmonic that causes the vibration to a level that is outside of the engines or whatever rotating mass rpm operating range....now throw a repeated, single off frequency pulse ........
and the vibration becomes apparent again.

Clear as mudd

I went thru vibration analysis/troubleshooting when I worked for Detroit Diesel and with no real enginerring education, I was flat out amazed how harmonics can be "moved" to eliminate vibrations.

 

[geonc]

Good to hear George
Hey, which model is that, that failed?

I had the CON-O. Per SB, that unit is a LUK model that SB "tweaks" for better clamp load.

I went with the SB clutch on a reccomendation from Johnatan-SWAMP instead of the LUK ceramateallic.

Anybody make a triple ceramic disc, planetary tranny that would fit my truck

 

[argve]

George,

Mine is a SBC CON O - problem that I have is the clutch won't last more than about 15-20k miles (even less if I drove harder). It just can't hold the power that I'm putting down for long periods of time. I've had 2 SBC in it so far and each one dies a pretty quick death - I'm on borrowed time at this point on this clutch - I can't lay in to it too hard at this point. I have talked with some local SBC dealers and Peter I get the same response from all of them that is I need to step up the clutch because the std diameter clutch is just not enough for me but at the cost of adding the extra diameter is too high for my blood (read I'm a poor boy)... So I just live with the fact that I can't pour all the power to the coals and when towing I have to take it real easy.

I can't have a cerametallic because I have to slip the clutch to put the truck in the garage and also because when I park the TT I have to split inches there as well... When I park in the garage everyday I have to touch the rear wall of the garage to have 2 inches of space between the truck and garage door - read need bigger garage... But with us getting a seasonally site for the TT I won't have to worry about splitting inches while towing so I should be able to step up the clutch material but there is still the cost issues and I don't want to work overtime but it looks like I'm going to either have to live with it or sign up for a couple of saturdays

It's gotten worse since I added the locker rear end because now the tires hold more traction so that means the clutch has to work harder

 

[NJKen]

We could probable fit a healthy Lenco trans in there Geo! I know they hold up to 4000+ HP when speced rite
At least they are going to stand behind their clutch. That is just way cool. There are too many companies that just dont stand behind their parts. It is refredshing to see someone do a good job like that. I know where I'll go for a clutch if I ever get a handshaker again. Til then I'll keep my auto
Ken

 

[geonc]

George,

Mine is a SBC CON O - problem that I have is the clutch won't last more than about 15-20k miles (even less if I drove harder). It just can't hold the power that I'm putting down for long periods of time. I've had 2 SBC in it so far and each one dies a pretty quick death - I'm on borrowed time at this point on this clutch - I can't lay in to it too hard at this point. I have talked with some local SBC dealers and Peter I get the same response from all of them that is I need to step up the clutch because the std diameter clutch is just not enough for me but at the cost of adding the extra diameter is too high for my blood (read I'm a poor boy)... So I just live with the fact that I can't pour all the power to the coals and when towing I have to take it real easy.



It's gotten worse since I added the locker rear end because now the tires hold more traction so that means the clutch has to work harder

I didn't know you were putting that much power down

So I guess you really need the OFE or are you looking for a double disc :Sly

Man, I can't wait till I get back in my PSD ...currently driving a spare co. truck......'98 Dodge Ram 2500.......24 valve Kuminski

 

[Ramprat]

'98 Dodge Ram 2500.......24 valve Kuminski

Guess I better play nice eh

 

[geonc]

New South bend clutch is in
Thanks to Peter and crew at SB

had the f/w surfaced too

Along with new rear main seal/sleeve!

One of the thigs Peter asked about was alignment of the case to the dowels.....once the input shaft was close to the clutch.....a couple tweaks of the jack and she slid home on the dowles and when it touched the spacer/adapter , I was able to literally thread all 6 bolts in by hand till they were snug to the case, then used a flex socket and rachet to make the final torque home

The cross member bolts to frame and tranny were left loose
till I initially fired it up to allow it to "find" it's center, then the frame bolts were tightend first with the tranny mount tightend last.....I did this to eliminate any possibility of frame/ mount issues.

So I imagine that rules out the case alignment he mentioned to check.

Next I will replace the left side UVC harness and VC harness to eliminate them as a possible contributer of "spikes"....passerger side has already been done .

A BIG and to Peter and SBC!

NOW mebee I can get to the other packages that "BROWN" :Sly has been delivering

 

[Mike]

NOW mebee I can get to the other packages that "BROWN" :Sly has been delivering

 

[rubberfish]

Good to hear George,
You're never gonna guess what happened
to me while I was moving into my new house
and shop. Very similiar to your gong show.
A loud shriek, hard pedal for a moment.
I'll post the pics this evening.
12,000 kms - about 8,500 mi ??? or so.

 

[geonc]

Good to hear George,
You're never gonna guess what happened
to me while I was moving into my new house
and shop. Very similiar to your gong show.
A loud shriek, hard pedal for a moment.
I'll post the pics this evening.
12,000 kms - about 8,500 mi ??? or so.

Bob
'92 K2500*GMCummins*Special Edition*Intercooled 12Valve*KDPfixed
4”Pipe*5”Tip*O-Ringed Head*BHAF*4000GSK*0 plate*370’s*BD Gauges
BD Pump*Southbend Clutch*NV4500*6”Susp Lift*LT315’s and only 6400lbs.

TOO BE SURE !!!!!........ .....

 

[rubberfish]

Con O
Will I put another one in???????
Not to sure.
I'm not terribly impressed.

 

[Ramprat]

Me thinks I'm going to rule out south bend clutches

 

[geonc]

WOWZERS
Argve [Travis]......myself.......and now Rubberfish......
all CON-O units ...........

 

[rubberfish]

Well, thumbs up to Peter for his customer service.
And to Harry from PDR as well. I stopped in at Piers,
explained to Harry what happened. He gave Peter a
call, and presto, somehow I got upsold to a con O fe
using the credit for the con O to pay for a big
chunck of the O fe.
I like when a story has a happy ending.