The BOT Rebuild

MPatty

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I bought this truck a few years ago. It's a 1993 F250 with a NA motor and 093 Turbo, ZF5. After driving for a few years I noticed a coolant leak at the back of the drivers side head...no signs of coolant/oil mixing just leaking. I decided that I was going to rebuild and as most projects go it spiraled into much more than I had planned....18 months later its back on the road.

This was my first engine rebuild and significant truck overhaul. I called around until I found a machine shop that knew what I was talking about when I told him a 7.3 IDI and immediately asked how the back two cylinders looked. While prepping to pull the motor I found a factory turbo motor in a junkyard. I pulled it to get turbo rods and have an extra injection pump and turbo for cores. I was hoping to rebuild one and just do a swap... but the cylinders didn't look great and I decided to rebuild the engine in my truck.

The machine shop pressure tested the block and checked out fine. He went 0.020 over on the bores and he did have to take some off the block. The heads were gone through and comp 910's installed. All the valves were in spec after decking the heads. The valves were replaced with ceramic coated valves. Because the block and heads were both shaved the piston protrusion was out of spec. I had the pistons shaved 0.010 and cerakoted with piston coat. The cam and crank were in spec and just got polished and balanced. All bearings and bushings were replaced. The machine work took about 8+ months to get back, but I was told that before I took it in. Some of that time was caused by going back and forth getting pistons cerakoted and waiting on parts after figuring out what needed to be ordered.

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I assembled the block with ARP studs, CDD modified head gaskets, and all new seals.

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Final engine assembly ended up with
CDD 130 CC pump
CDD Stage 3 Turbo with waste gate delete
CDD 3" downpipe
CDD modified headgaskets
0.020 turbo pistons
All new bearings/bushings
CDD glow plug harness
E-fuel conversion with Walbro GSL392
ARP Studs
Exhaust and crossover pipe were all cerakoted
CDD Intercooler
South Bend Stage 2 Clutch

While working/waiting on the engine I wirebrushed the chassis and POR15 the chassis. I converted to a single 38 gallon tank with soft fuel lines and a sump.

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MPatty

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On the interior I pulled the carpet, put dynomat on the floor and walls and put a vinyl flooring in.
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On reassembly I opted to pull the front clip and put the transmission and engine back in assembled....I won't make that mistake again. With the turbo mounted and the transmission on it was much worse getting everything in than just putting the transmission in from below.

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But I was able to finally get it all assembled and the intercooler piping in. Put a 4" diamond eye exhaust in. I order the Cat back 4" diamond eye and was able to match it up to the CDD downpipe after adding a 3" 45 degree elbow and a 3-4" adapter.

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I was also able to find a camper shell in great condition during this and pick it up.

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She runs great with no leaks. I still need to time it but seems to be running really well without EGT's getting too hot. Im in NC and have sent a message to the one person listed in the registry close but haven't heard back. Im certain I have a few boost leaks because it doesn't really build boost until ~2500 rpms and then takes off. Im waiting on a boot to come in to pressurize it and find out where my leaks are. I have a few odds and ends to finish up but its ready for the road again. Eventually I will add hydro boost to it but for now I was ready to have it back on the road and don't have all the parts yet. In the next few months hopefully it will get to the body shop to get some dents pulled and a fresh paint job.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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“This was my first engine rebuild and significant truck overhaul.”

Pretty nice work on all fronts ;Sweet
 

Old Goat

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Great job on the rebuild. Seems every thing snow balls when a simple little project gets started. Looks like you are doing everything right.

When I saw your interior Dynamated, first thought, "where did he get a picture of my truck?"
I did the whole interior of my 85 extra cab last month. Used 2 boxes of the Dynamat extreme.

I had a few sheets left and decided to just do the doors of the 86. After scrubbing and hosing out the doors, (wow lots of dirt and crap after 30 + years) did the insides and the interior side. Had 2 sheets left, so pulled the seat and vinal mat, and was enough for the back wall.

Once the Mat, Seat, Plastic Panels and Carpet off back wall...My OH My, look at the rust.

If you are going to paint your truck, I would recommend to remove the rear window and rubber gasket. You might have rust starting along the pinch weld.
I knew I had rust showing from out side by one corner of the window, but when I removed the Plastic corner panels, there is a big section on both corners rusted away, inside.
We have had rain/snow a day ago, and noticed in the corner on pass side big puddle of water. So knocked out the big rubber plug to let it drain. Iam wondering if this is a problem why some trucks have the cab corners rusted out?

Iam now on the search for a good rust free cab. :cool

That Dynamat is pricey stuff. Got first box off E-bay, $160.
Needed another one, drove to Reno to Summit Racing,
$165. 2 weeks later needed a 3rd box, and Summit is now...$192. :***: EDIT: W_T_F smilie is now blocked??? ;Really
Did some searching and found on Eastwood.com they have their brand, X-Mat, $70 on sale, bought both boxes they had in the store. Normally $99.

I will say with the interior totally covered, it is a different truck as far as noise level. Also replaced the Window channel, and Belt Line Rubber on out side and door panel.
Thursday my carpet should be here.

So when you get your truck put together, it will be quiet enough so you don`t have to yell at your Wife.


Goat
 
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The_Josh_Bear

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Nice work!!! Have fun in that sleeper! No doubt you'll be surprising more than a few folks when you put the hammer down over the years to come...

:peelout
 

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