thinking its time to replace the IP, injectors and fuel pump

[zmck150]

Sojust like every other time i have a problem, i am looking to you guys for help when i am stuck. the last time that i started to have a stall upon a qucik release of the throttle i was instructed to advance my pump 1/16 of a inch to compensate for the wear on the pump. the miles on the pump are unknown, seeing how its a jasper reman engine with no paperwork but i would guess and say there are a decent amount of miles on the setup. my ODO reads 386xxx.

my truck is a 93 f350 cc lb 4x4 dually with a N/A 7.3 with a E4od

Now my question is,does anybody know of a place local to RI, western MA or eastern CT that can rebuild my IP, or should i consider purchasing a new pump. I would perfer to rebuild the one i have if there is a shop somewhat close to me because from what im finding people are paying 250 to 300 dollars for a full rebuild (correct me if im wrong) and it would be great to be as cheap as possible.

the other question i have is who should i use for headgaskets? i want to bang everything out in one shot and get my truck back on the road ASAP

thanks in advance for any input and advice

 

[icanfixall]

Why are you thinking of replacing the head gaskets??/ Are you seeing a problem or just reading about the poor quality original had gaskets. One of my head gaskets lasted well over 300,000 miles with the last 200,000 miles turboed and boosting to 13 lbs towing heavy. Now as far as what you posted about rebuilding or buying a new injection pump we have not seen many new pumps offered anywhere. The rebuilds you posted about in the 200 to 300 dollar range are truely a pos. Do not buy these because you are going to end up spending more when these cheap pumps fail to work. Please read the Hall of Shame forum. Then you can see the issues encountered by misinformed ebay buyers of the cheapest pumps. Never buy from a shop in Tenn or the panhandle in Florida. Both of these shops are wiping off the dirt and painting pumps. then selling them as a new rebuild. Note to you. there is no such thing as a new rebuild. Its new or rebuilt. Now a very good quality shop in the Pa area called Conestoga Diesel will set you up with a quality pump you will not have issues with. Call them and talk or look at their web site. They have much to offer from mild to wild. They will not cheat you or sell you painted crap. They have been doing the best pump rebuilds for more years than most if not all the others

 

[gandalf]

You cannot go wrong with Conestoga Diesel. They certainly are not the cheapest, but they are the best. In some things you can find a bargain, but when it comes to injection pumps, you get what you pay for. Mel, who owns Conestoga Diesel, is a prominent member of this forum (see user Agnem), and we support our own. Not only does he sell an excellent product, but he is very honest, very knowledgeable, and will stand behind what he sells.

As Icanfixall says, it's easy to go elsewhere for a cheaper price, but you will probably get a repainted POS pump. It's far easier to do it right the first time.

 

[OLDBULL8]

You wouldn't get a cheap Heart transplant would you? The IP is the Heart of a diesel engine pumping life into it. Used/rebuilt injectors are just that, it takes 30 to 45 minutes to adjust and pop test an injector to the correct popping PSI of ~1850. Do you think a rebuilder is going to spend that much time on a set of 8? I know what it takes, because I clean and pop test my own injectors. Even new out of the box can be defective or pop at way wide pressures, 50 PSI is the max norm difference.

 

[IDIoit]

as a customer of Conestoga Diesel, i did pay a bit of coin for my new IP, Injectors, and a return line kit.
i also opted for a performance upgrade.
there are more "bank account freindly" options he provides, but the age old saying stands...
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

SURE, you can go to places like Diesel care, and get the parts for dirt cheap, but your getting **** parts, and **** customer service as well.
if you decided to go with a "cheap" shop, be prepared to have your truck down many times and replacing the IP a few times, and atleast receive 2 bad injectors.
ive read alot of threads from people doing exactly this, and i have also done this. IVE LEARNED MY LESSON!

when i purchased my IP, i got the correct part, correctly rebuilt, and calibrated.
he sent me my parts, i installed them, and i sent my core back.
it took me a weekend to install (working at a super slow pace) and a few days to dial in. due to my malfunctions.
but the only thing i had to exchange from Conestoga diesel was e-mails.

and he was prompt to respond with my issues and helped me work them out.

IMO if you wanna be cheap about it, go to a junk yard. youll have better luck.

 

[gandalf]

Since you're thinking about re-doing your IP and the injection system, there are a couple things you ought to read, if you haven't already.

The first is the article Mel (Agnem) wrote. There is a link HERE. When I pulled and replaced the IP on my truck I printed the pertinent parts of that article, and kept them handy.

The second thing you should read is The Oilburners Hall of Shame. It is a compilation of postings from forum members, telling of their bad experiences with specific vendors and shops. I would very definitely read it, beginning to end, before spending any of my hard=earned money, if I were you.

 

[Agnem]

I know times are hard. And money is tight. There are some things worth trying to save money on, and then there are some things that aren't. I've been yelled at a few times by people who think that my pumps should be the same price as those $350 ebay specials. Because somewhere there is the feeling that "if it looks like peanut butter, smells like peanut butter and tastes like peanut butter, it must be peanut butter." But we all know that only goes so far. By the aforementioned example, that may be true. But if it has chemicals in it you can't taste that will take 10 years off your life, how much would you listen to someone who said "yeah it's cheap, but I ate it and it made me sick". It's hard to convince some people to pay double for a pump. The problem is, you can't make them believe that those cheap products are tainted. Some people have to experience it for themselves. I don't try to tell people my stuff is worth the money. I let you guys do that for me, and I appreciate it. Walmart and places like it have taught John Q. Public that rock bottom price is the most important thing, and by and large, people have been trained to shop that way, completely uncaring if that item they are buying lasts a day, a month or a year. It's reached the point where there are some things that you can't even buy a quality version of if you wanted it. It's a sad state of affairs. One I will not participate in by offering anything less than my best. The sad thing is, by the time a lot of people come to me, they have already spent more in shipping and returns and especially TIME, then if they had just bought our pump in the first place.

 

[Mulochico]

I know times are hard. And money is tight. There are some things worth trying to save money on, and then there are some things that aren't. I've been yelled at a few times by people who think that my pumps should be the same price as those $350 ebay specials. Because somewhere there is the feeling that "if it looks like peanut butter, smells like peanut butter and tastes like peanut butter, it must be peanut butter." But we all know that only goes so far. By the aforementioned example, that may be true. But if it has chemicals in it you can't taste that will take 10 years off your life, how much would you listen to someone who said "yeah it's cheap, but I ate it and it made me sick". It's hard to convince some people to pay double for a pump. The problem is, you can't make them believe that those cheap products are tainted. Some people have to experience it for themselves. I don't try to tell people my stuff is worth the money. I let you guys do that for me, and I appreciate it. Walmart and places like it have taught John Q. Public that rock bottom price is the most important thing, and by and large, people have been trained to shop that way, completely uncaring if that item they are buying lasts a day, a month or a year. It's reached the point where there are some things that you can't even buy a quality version of if you wanted it. It's a sad state of affairs. One I will not participate in by offering anything less than my best. The sad thing is, by the time a lot of people come to me, they have already spent more in shipping and returns and especially TIME, then if they had just bought our pump in the first place.

How true! That's why I didn't even try anything else. Very happy to have the best.

A whole lot less to worry about. Got enough of other things to do that to.

 

[zmck150]

Well with all of that being said i guess ill be saving for a while, thanks for all the input. As for the headgasket issue i have so much oil in my coolant its ridiculous. But NO coolant in my oil.. ive had this problem since i bought the truck, Ive done the o rings in the oil cooler 2 times, then i swapped the oil cooler itself with another one off a spare engine that i have which had no signs of the two fluids mixing. (With new gaskets and o rings everytime of course). The truck ran great and nver skipped a beat (before the ip problem) and ive beat it pretty bad pulling people out of mud/snow and towed some decent weight without getting worse. So maybe it isnt a headgasket but i dont know what else the problem could be

 

[icanfixall]

Well are you loosing any oil? If you are then its finding a way into the cooling system somehow. Not really many ways it can cross over. Also how are you flushing the oily coolant from the radiator? If the block drains are not opened to drain the cylinder areas you will have lots of oil left in the coolant. Try using Dawn Dishwashing blue liquid detergent. Others will chime in with what works for them. It really is not hurting the cooling system to have oil in it. Whats in there ends up being pushed over into the recovery tank most of the time. Oil floats so it ends up in the cap neck area and is pushed over where it floats to the top of the coolant recovery tank.

 

[zmck150]

yes i am loosing oil, its probably a little over a quart a week. i have a "ghetto " catch can that is easily removed and dumped lol. i have tried everything to clean out the cooling system (as far as to running detergant in the summer, draining the block and radiator, flushing with a coolant flush machine, running more detergant and repeating until it seemed cleaned up enough where i could dump the catch can every so often) but im back to square one since i still loose the oil on the dip stick and it keeps appearing in the coolant. so im at a loss of where it is crossing over. from what ive been reading trying to replace the headgasket is the next best option. unless someone else has a better suggestion? id like to do it all at the same time once it gets a little warmer in my area