Thinking about a WMO set up.

[phazertwo]

nice, just something else to consider, those pumps can go well over 1000 psi and your filters will not take that well if they plug. i would highly recomend a relief valve in there before the first filter to make sure they never get enough pressure to do that.

Looks like that vinyl tube wont take anywhere near 1000 psi neither. Lol

You are both very correct, the PVC is rated for 275psi.

I am concerned about this. I brought it up to EMD driver who has the same set up, and he said he has not had an issue with it while he has been running it. He said that you can see the pressure change in the gauges as the filters begin to fill.

Like I said earlier I am going to invest more money as it becomes more apparent that this will save me at least as much money as I am sinking in this set up.

Eventually, since I want to make this set up automated (I am a manufacturing engineer, so automation ticks my clock, not to mention makes my life easier, and since time is money saves me even more money!), at that point I will add a pressure switch, and a relay setup that will kill the power to the motor if pressure goes over 50 or so PSI. It should be really really cheap to do this since I think I can get the relay out of my scrap parts pile, and a pressure switch is pretty cheap.

PZ

 

[bab029]

FWIW

I'm going to run a 3/4" pickup reduced to 1/2" going in and out of my Small Block Ford oil pump (no choice here) then back to 3/4" to a goldenrod, I hope then to a 1 mike filter, then to the receiving vessel. I'm going to drive it with an electric impact for now, but want to find a 1/4 or 1/3 horse motor in the future to drive this.

A friend of mine's dad has a setup I like. He has two pumps and two separate filters. One is a coarser filter, this one he runs from collection barrel #1 into barrel #2. Barrel #2 has a pump and a finer, final filter on it. It pumps from barrel #2 back to barrel #1. He lets this circulate for 24 hours or so, and his oil looks GOOD when he's done.

He also has a lot of other home made cool stuff (Waste oil heater for the shop using a modified injector pump and 4 injectors from a mack diesel truck, Water preheater for the house made of 100 gallon tank painted black in a plexiglass box. Man crush? I think so....)

 

[phazertwo]

So couldn't take it any more and I bought a small block oil pump and converted it to a transfer pump using my drill to drive it. I didn't get a good time for it pumping just WMO but it pushed 10 gallons of 50/50 diesel through the filters in less than a minute!! The oil came out looking nice, and the pressure never went above 20psi, and that was only on the first filter. The 2 mic filter didn't even register pressure!

I am trying to figure out if the power steering pump I want to use is self priming or not. If it is I will probably still use it.

We will have to see how it burns in the truck tomorrow!!

PZ

 

[subway]

the power steering pump is a vane style pump, they by nature are not nearly as good at pulling a vacume as a gear pump. i think you will be better off with the oil pump is my guess.

i know the power steering pumps i played with they could not pull oil through the lines well at all.

 

[phazertwo]

Here is how I did my Chevy Small Block WMO pump.

First I went to advanced autoparts and got the cheapest oil pump they sold for a 1985 chevy half ton with a 350. It was $20.xx with tax.

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I had a 3/8 NPT tap.

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Second, disassemble the pump. Super easy, take the 4 bolts out and pull out the two gears.

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I did the parts that required allot of JBweld first so it would have time to dry.
I used the loctite version of JBweld because it was a few dollars cheaper.
First plug the old by pass.

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Then drill a new hole for the new output.

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tap new hole, and the original input hole with the 3/8 NPT tap (note that the original input hole is close enough to the correct size for 3/8 NPT and no drilling is needed.)

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Next add JBweld to the threads of a small piece of 3/8 pipe and install in the new output hole.

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Than fill the old output with JBweld. Make sure to tape off the back side of the hole to keep the mounting surface clean. Also make sure to wipe and JBweld off of the gear surfaces.

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After running this for about 10 gallons of WMO on a 850 RPM drill I figured I was getting about 3gpm. However when I mixed 50/50 diesel/WMO it pumped about 7 or 8 GPM. I figure if you drive it at 1700 RPM you should be rocking about 8 GPM of WMO.

Also after running it a bit of oil was coming out between the case halves. A VERY thin layer of RTV fixed that. A very small amount was coming out of the drive gear too, but not enough for me to be concerned.

I will try to get some more pics of mine complete!

PZ

 

[phazertwo]

While I was waiting for glue to dry, I pressure tested my filter set up to 40 PSI of air. On round 1 it failed horribly. EVERY connection that was block iron to anything but brass failed (including black iron to black iron). Teflon tape sucks to seal black iron, I figured if I used the right amount with right amount of torque on the fittings it would work. It was a joke. I had to take the entire set up apart and re-seal using pipe dope. Was a little more messy, but damn did it seal good, and the fittings require WAY WAY less torque to completely seal.

Here it is with pressure sitting on it.

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I used the tried and true soapy water out of a spray bottle and got NO leaks the first try with pipe dope.

PZ

 

[subway]

nice! so how well does it pull a vacume for self priming? should be fairly good

 

[phazertwo]

VERY well. I was quite impressed. It lifted WMO from a 5 gallon bucket on the ground, to the pump on my work bench in less than a second. If you can get a drill that spins 1.5 to 2k RPMs, than you should have a NICE mobile set up, for collecting.

PZ

 

[jonathan]

While I was waiting for glue to dry, I pressure tested my filter set up to 40 PSI of air. On round 1 it failed horribly. EVERY connection that was block iron to anything but brass failed (including black iron to black iron). Teflon tape sucks to seal black iron, I figured if I used the right amount with right amount of torque on the fittings it would work. It was a joke. I had to take the entire set up apart and re-seal using pipe dope. Was a little more messy, but damn did it seal good, and the fittings require WAY WAY less torque to completely seal.

Here it is with pressure sitting on it.

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I used the tried and true soapy water out of a spray bottle and got NO leaks the first try with pipe dope.

PZ

do you have part numbers for the filterheads

 

[phazertwo]

do you have part numbers for the filterheads

Read post 1

 

[w4dsb]

i would have saved the $$ on the brass fittings and hose and just hard piped them together with pipe nipples (just me though)

 

[phazertwo]

I didn't for two reasons. First, the output of one filter base is not lined up with the input of the other. It would have been a pain to make them match using anything but soft line.

Second, I like to see black in there!

PZ

 

[w4dsb]

understood

 

[jonathan]

Read post 1

were did you get them at?

 

[phazertwo]

were did you get them at?

Read post # 13.

Not trying to be mean, but you should just read the whole thing.

PZ