The Project Begins!

[Brutis]

I picked up a 1994 IDI factory turbo truck on Thursday as phase 1 of my planned upgrade. The previous owner wrecked it 3 years ago and it's sat until now. I just finished pulling the turbo system off.

Now I need to work towards installing it on my 1990 N/A 7.3. Would be easiest to just swap both valve covers and the intake maifold?

Any tips from those of you who have experience would be appriciated!

 

[91crew]

You can just swap the one valve cover with the cdr mounted on it. Or you can go the route some of us take and route that crankcase pressure to the atmosphere. You don't need to swap intake manifolds.

 

[Brutis]

Is there an advantage to not using the cdr? If so how would I set it up to vent to atmosphere? If I can do that it would be great. I just replaced valve cover gaskets and don't really want to do it again.

 

[The Warden]

Is there an advantage to not using the cdr? If so how would I set it up to vent to atmosphere? If I can do that it would be great. I just replaced valve cover gaskets and don't really want to do it again.

The advantage to venting to the atmosphere is that you won't have oil vapors going into your intake manifold and coating everything (including the turbo compressor vanes) in oil. The disadvantage is, the blow-by gases will be going out into the open...the smell isn't particularly pleasant, people will keep trying to tell you that your truck's on fire and the environmentalists will blow a gasket

There are a few ways to vent the crankcase gases to the atmosphere. IMHO the cleanest way is to use a Banks crankcase vent adapter...looks like the picture I've attached. From this nipple, you can connect a hose and have the gases exit wherever you want. Some people have done a venturi-style adapter to route the blow-by into the exhaust...I plan to do this when I take my truck out of service (I have most of the parts already; just need to put them together). The part number for the Banks crankcase adapter is in the "Parts Bin" thread in the Tech Articles

Hope this helps some...good luck!!

 

[Brutis]

Thanks for the great info. I think since I will already be tearing into some things - including exhaust - I'll route it out the exhaust.

 

[Brutis]

How does the oil supply and drain work on a N/A intake? One of them fits into the old oil pressure sender I think, what about the other?

Also, is there a previous post explaining the process? I searched earlier, but couldn't find all of it.

 

[argve]

The oil drain for the turbo goes to the grommet for the current location for the CDR. When you remove the CDR that is where the tube for the oil drain goes. You might have to pop out the grommet that was used on the turbo motor but I can't remember (been too many years since I have done a turbo install). You can take the oil supply from a fitting on the side of the rear drivers side of the engine block down about 3/4 of the way, you will see a 1/8" pipe plug remove this and that leads right into the pressurized oil passages.

 

[The Warden]

I'm not sure how the factory turbo works, but on my non-gated ATS, the kit included a pedestal...it bolts in place of the CDR valve just behind the intake point on the manifold, sealing up the port that the CDR uses to send gases into the manifold. This pedestal serves as the oil drain, with oil going down through the pedestal into the valley pan. On an n/a engine, the CDR valve collects its gases from a hole in the valley pan...the turbo pedestal drains oil into this hole instead. There's a series of baffles underneath the hole that you'll need to poke a bunch of holes through in order to let the oil drain through without backing up.

Oil feed's usually done either from the port for the oil pressure sender or from a port down the left side of the block near the oil filter. Take a look at the donor engine and see where it came from...I haven't dealt with a factory turbo, so I don't know for sure...

 

[dansvan]

Factory uses the oil pressure port, but it's been opened up from 1/8th to 1/4 inch.

 

[icanfixall]

All oil ports on all turbo blocks are 1/4 inch npt.... Thats from block serial number 1,116,331 and up..... This is not the block casting number either.... Hope this helps others to know what they have...

 

[Brutis]

Wish I had internet at the house because I missed a lot of good information - like the baffles I need to poke holes in for oil drain. Thanks to all who responded. Is there a way for me to adapt between the 1/8" & 1/4" oil supply port? I noticed the difference in sizes and assumed I would need to do something about it?

Also, I just finished a 3" turbo back exhaust with a Thrush Welded 3" muffler. Should I be able to hear the turbo while driving?

I have a boost gauge that at most shows 3 (maybe pushing 4 sometimes) PSI, but I can't hear the turbo with the exhaust on. With exhaust off I hear the turbo but get the same PSI reading.

I don't have a Pyro, but am ordering one ASAP. I have not messed with my fuel system at all yet (been afraid to w/o PYro). I plan to swap over the fuel system from the 1994 parts truck, not sure if now or later though. I was also wondering if I could just turn up the fuel screw on my 1990 IP at least for now. Any suggestions appriciated - especially about the oil supply. That worrys me.

 

[pafixitman]

Need a pyro. I would also suggest upgrading the down pipe. Adjust the wastegate and fuel (after pyro).