Temp controlled GP idea.

[Selahdoor]

An idea.

The temp switch on the front of the engine, next to the fuel filter. Yeah, the one that controls the cold start stuff...

Run a wire from that to a relay. This is to switch the relay.

Now run power from the battery, through the relay, to the GP controller.

Since the yellow wire is the one that brings power from the battery to the controller, you'll remove that, and get it out of the way in such a way that it won't ground against anything.

Then run your power wire from the relay, to where the yellow wire was.


Now, the only times the glow plugs will run, is if the engine is cold enough to need them.

Only real problem I can see here is if the temp switch needs to be a different temp. Anyone know whether the cold start stuff on the IP actually come on, when the engine is still warm?

 

[nostrokes]

I've seen where someone put a thermostat, like a baseboard heater thermostat, on the GP controller and set it to like 40* or so. I personally would rather use the switch method, sometimes I don't need gp's even down to 30* or so.

My high idle and timing advance kick off at around 120* according to my temp gauge, not sure when it kicks in.

 

[Selahdoor]

I believe Cactus Bob used a thermo switch from a water heater to control his. Set to 90 degrees or so.

Reason I like the method I suggested is because all it controls is when the GP controller gets power from the battery. The controller still does everything the same way it always has.

It will get power only those times when the fast idle gets power. If the engine is warm enough to start without the fast idle, then the fast idle is not getting power. And that means you aren't wasting the GP cycles those times.

A manual setup was my first thought. We all have our own preferences. I get so forgetful, that I'd rather not add one more thing to remember when I am starting the truck. This way, I'll be cutting down on the number of cycles. And still not have to remember that dang switch at startup.

 

[chillman88]

Sounds like a good idea to me, if you're going through the trouble of doing that, might as well add an oil pressure switch to the circuit so it kills power after the engine starts too. No its not necessary, but you'll be 3/4 of the way there already and that way they won't keep lighting off for the 10sec or whatever after it starts.

 

[Thewespaul]

I’ve brought it up before, just remove the red and green wire from the relay, and run a new wire tapped into the high idle wire. This will only power the relay when the engine coolant temp is above ~130*.

 

[Selahdoor]

I’ve brought it up before, just remove the red and green wire from the relay, and run a new wire tapped into the high idle wire. This will only power the relay when the engine coolant temp is above ~130*.

Remove the red and green wires, and then run a new wire from the high idle... To? Where the red was? Where the green was? Both?

And you probably mean below ~130.

I'm glad I'm not the only one to see the value of using what is already there. And I like the idea of using a switching wire, and not the main feed wire. Thank you.

 

[Thewespaul]

Yes to all that

 

[Selahdoor]

Yes to all that

Yes to the high idle wire going to the red wire?

Or the green wire?

Or both wires?

Ok, wait. Looks like both red and green go to the same place anyway.

In my best Rosanne Rosannadanna voice... Never mind...

 

[Thewespaul]

Ignition source on these trucks is a red/green wire. Remove that from the relay and put your tapped wire in its place that pulls power from the high idle.

 

[Selahdoor]

Thank you.

This is a pic that Snicklas posted in an old thread. I was using it to visualize my ideas.

There is an obvious red wire. And an obvious green wire. Thus, my cornfuzzlement.

But after all this.... Looking closer at the pic... That green wire looks like it goes to the glow plugs. It doesn't terminate at the same place as the red wire.

Soooo.... Yeah. Remove the red wire from the controller. Insulate/isolate it so it doesn't ground out anywhere. Then run a new wire from that terminal, and splice into the high idle circuit.

Thank you very much, Wes! Much simpler than my relay idea.

You must be registered for see images attach

By the way. Anyone know what that white wire does?

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

There was once a kit from IH or Ford to do this although it may have been for the early 7.3 Powerstroke. The concept and function was the same. If one wanted to get sophisticated with it an adjustable electric fan switch controller could be used. Or a Horton fixed temp fan control switch from a big rig.

 

[Selahdoor]

By the way... Again, thank you Wes. I am going to actually do this.

I'll come back to this thread after I run it for a while that way.

I think that if it isn't perfect, (as in, it might still run the GPs sometimes when they aren't needed.), it will at least cut down in some amount, on the times the GPs are run, needlessly.

 

[Thewespaul]

The red wire stays, that is needed to power up the controller. There is a separate red/green wire on the engine harness side that also goes there which is what needs to be replaced. You can add a push button for manual override if you ever need it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

By the way. Anyone know what that white wire does?

I believe this is a ground wire.

 

[snicklas]

I believe this is a ground wire.

Yes, the controller pulls that white wire to ground to activate the plugs. You can add a grounded momentarily push button to that post for a manual override.