Talk With ARP About Studs

icanfixall

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I just ordered 34 studs from ARP today. Paul was very helpful. I Asked plenty of questions. First off these AR 7.00 studs are 7 inches lonf and they are 200,000 psi with rolled threads. Gees... I fotgot to ask what the material was... Damn it anyway... The torque needed is kinda funny. If I was to use Moly lube the torque is 90 lbs. If I use 30 wt oil its 130 lbs... That has me thinking all too much... Our blocks have a counter bore of 1 inch without threads and then the bore has another 1 1/2 inches onf threads. The ARP studs have 1 1/4 inch of threads on the top and bottom ends so the threads in the block wont bottom out. Thats a good thing. I know nobody wants to loose 1/4 inch of holding power but look at the top of the stud. It has a nut thats .539 thick holding all the pressure that the bottom full 1 1/4 inch of stud threads are holding. Overall this looks better than what I had going on before. I still can't figure out why I broke two and maybe more studs. H13 material for the Kens studs is great stuff. Just wonder why things broke...:dunno P.S... I forgot to give the price for 34 studs...... It was $244.20..... All I can say is thats just fine as frogs hair to me... I don't mind paying for something just as long as I get what I'm paying for. Sometimes we do... I shp Ebay for parts to my 1937 Cord all the time.. Some great prices but then again I wont pay $550.00 for two repro tail lite lenses either. I have them but just want spares. You know me and spare parts.... buy them at a good price and alls well.
 
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82fordtruck

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Post a picture of the failure. We have seen several failures related to poor steel quality lately on our bolts we make.
 

typ4

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I assume that is just the studs and not nuts or washers?? I know what I paid and they are giving you the good deal on the studs. BTW thank you for finding the tensile on them, now I know the catalog is right.

Here is a pic of them in the block, pretty, huh???;Sweet :love:
 

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JwS

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I wouldn't worry too much about the thread engagement in the block, the threads do not carry the load equally. There is alot of uncertainty in the details, but the load per thread varies along the length of the bolt (or stud) until the last couple threads (deepest in the block) carry very little load. The load is uneven because the amount of stretch is uneven. The bolt will stretch most between the topmost threads, because they carry a bunch of load the stretch between the next 2 is a little less, and so on. This is basically the reason why bolts will usually break in the first couple threads unless there is some other flaw. Also why the thread start is just about the most important part to get perfect, and the part that would typically get the most attention.
Typically for cast iron the thread length should be 1.5 x the diameter of the bolt, minimum.
Those torque values show how good a high pressure lube moly is, huh?
Hope you got the nuts and washers too, they are an important part of the stud "system" and I don't know if their torque numbers are really valid without those nuts and washers. They are treated with something, and I think you are supposed to lube the nut/washer interface and the threads, right?
JwS
 

FordGuy100

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I assume that is just the studs and not nuts or washers?? I know what I paid and they are giving you the good deal on the studs. BTW thank you for finding the tensile on them, now I know the catalog is right.

Here is a pic of them in the block, pretty, huh???;Sweet :love:

You guys gotta take a ride in his rig to fully appreciate it. That thing runs so smooth ;Sweet , and it pulls hard.
 

icanfixall

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Guys... You really gots to READ MY POST.... Most of the questions you ask are in the first post. I did Not buy nuts and washers because I have them from Kens studs and.... I bought a full set from ARP a few years back. I have measured the stock head bolt thread ingagement and found it to be about 7/8th of an inch. The bolt has 1 5/8th inch of thread cut into it. Remember these blocks have the head bolt holes counter bored 1 inch deep without any threads. Then the last 1 1/2 inch is threaded. So if you measured the overall depth on the bolt holes in the bolck they are 2 1/2 inches deep from the head mating deck of the block. The ARP part # is AR7.00 and they have 1 1/4 inches of 1/2x13 course threads on the bottom and 1 1/4 inch of 1/2x20 fine threads on the top. Thats the price everybody gets. I'm nobody but a customer. I did have an offer to use someone elses name and business to get a better deal but felt I should buy this on my own. The offer was well taken and really felt good but this is who I am. My parts will be here next week all though I could have driven the 80 or so miles and picked them up myself. But not driving my truck but driving a 98 Honda Accord just isn't the same road trip.
 

Diesel JD

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You say you already have nuts and washers from ARP from awhile back...are you going to use those or the DPS stuff? Other than Russ I really don't know if we have anyone else running ARP studs in a 7.3. Several guys have them in a 6.9 and mostly good reviews, except for that one guy that kept having leaks.
 

typ4

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You guys gotta take a ride in his rig to fully appreciate it. That thing runs so smooth ;Sweet , and it pulls hard.

Thanks Justin, I like it. I just got 17.4 mpg on light throttle commuting. I love that:thumbsup:


Gary I knew you had nuts and washers.I paid 535 ish for studs, washers and 12 point nuts, they are almost the same price each as studs.:eek:
 

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