Swapping from the 351 to the IDI

[seawalkersee]

My IDI running with video in a Bronco

Well...I picked up my 6.9 yesterday. The 351 actually got great gas milage for being in a Bronco with 33s and stock 3.55 gears (between 11 and 14 depending on how hard I hammered it) and had enough power to speed up no matter what size hill or what gear.

Anyway, I need the engine to put in another car and found this IDI for a song. I will be welding in a patch panel on the subframe so I can mount the engine in the Bronco. I have a few qestions though...

For the fuel, how/what is the best way to do the lilft pump? What I mean is, some people have the Holley pumps and others of the sort. Do you also use the lift pump to get to the IP or does the electric pump eliminate it totally?

Unfortunately, I was not able to be there when the pulled the engine out so I did not get to see how the fuel line went from the drivers side to the passenger side...Can someone post a pic of that?

Bypass filters (I have been trying to do research for a few months so I make as few mistakes as possible) what and why?

Since the vehicle has a new "GAS" tank with no baffles in it, and the pick up is just a screen, I will want to put a large filter in front of the electric pump to keep from cavitating at lower levels though this should not be a problem as I will have to keep it 1/2 or better when wheeling. Sound right?

Chris

 

[tractorman86]

sounds like a good plan, what year bronco? yes the electric pump takes place of the lift pump, i think people just loop the lines where the lift pump goes not sure though. have't done mine yet unfortunately. make sure you dont have a pump in the fuel tank i hear those will give one hell of a headache.

 

[Agnem]

...I will be welding in a patch panel on the subframe so I can mount the engine in the Bronco. ...
Chris

Why? You don't need to do any welding to put an IDI in a Bronco.

 

[seawalkersee]

It is an 84 and there is no pump in the tank. The reason I am going to weld it is because of the hole for the filter in the factory cross member. I am going to make it use all of the holes. I am going to hvae to dig out all of my IDI books to get this done too. It looks SUPER easy to do (with the exception of the sure mass of the thing) to swap in. I will have to get a few other things to buy like the oil seperator cap (it was not in use on the old engine and has mud caked in the inlets). I will also have to get a few other things and I am sure I will have more questions to come.....Speaking of...

Mel, you have a picture of something in your photo album. It is a metal box and it is titled glow plug or somthing. Is that your bypass? What needs to be done to bypass the plugs and why would you do it? I mean, what are the bennies from bypassing them?

Chris

 

[Agnem]

You don't need to worry about that big oil filter hole. It works just fine with 3 bolts. Unless your looking to make big horsepower with it, Mine has held up for 20,000 miles with no issues. The silver box is my "idiot proof" glow plug controller. The schematic for that is in the Moose Truck album.

 

[seawalkersee]

What does it do? See, Im not exatctly new to fixing cars, but as far as anything other than fixing the stock problems, I am a newb on the diesel. I am going to pull my wiring diagrams out to wire in the engine and I will get it done.

Chris

 

[seawalkersee]

Wellllll....There were some things that even I have no clue how I just figured them out...but did. It goes down the road, but is not completely finished yet. I have to finish adding the bolts to the cross member, finish my exhaust, and add some things here and there.

Without further delay, here is the video of one one of the starts.

You must be registered for see images attach

SWS

 

[Optikalillushun]

TTT for ya, awsome build, seen it on FSB.

 

[seawalkersee]

Thanks. It DOES seem to miss a bit at idle. I think the pump may be going...Lucky for me, I have a super high milage spare. Now if only I had spare injectors...

SWS

 

[91f2504x4]

I did the same 351W to IDI swap in an F250 4x4. What rear universal did you end up using? I went back to the parts truck and pulled the yoke off the rearend of the diesel truck so that I could use a stock rear U-joint for a diesel. Also how did you end up doing your crossmember, did you bore new holes in the frame or just modify the crossmember itself? I have the transmission (ZF5) back out of mine because the stupid grinding in reverse problem, turns out the slider gear is bad and the teeth on the side of the reverse gear are chewed up too. Hopefully I will have it back together this weekend.

 

[seawalkersee]

I used a 435 that I swapped behind the 351. They have the same input as the t-18/19 that was in the f-250 the engine came from. It was only a 4x2 so I kept my 435 in the vehicle. The holes are REALLY close with the x-member all the way in, but yes it is off. I am going to modify the member to make it right. It is not done yet, but it is drivable. I hope to go to the boneyard next week and get a speedo cable and some other odds and inns I need. I want to upgrade my dash and door panels to a 92-5 and see what else I can get done. I will also be building a center console with rear heat just to add to the fun.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

This is just a cut and past of what I posed on FSB.com...

Well...good news and bad news. I pulled the injectors out and took them to a buddies shop today. He had sevral ideas about what could be causing the problem. He has an IDI Mercedes and thought he may have even had spare tips for me to use. Outcome of that was less than what I had hoped, but with the setup he had made himself to test the pop pressure for the injectors, he tested imie. Not a great result, but one that I needed to know.

We cleaned one injector and the spray pattern was pretty good. The second, third, and fourth were not so good. Only the one that got cleaned did the pop pop pop like it was supposed to. The pressure was not consistent with what I would have liked. It jumped from about 1800-2200. Usually they pop at the same when they are working right, but I attribute this to the gunk that was building in the tip.

The pressures should be within 50psi of the rest of the injectors. I was going to get a set of e-bay units, but my buddy said to try this local shop. I called them and was told they could rebuild mine with new gaskets, tips, o-rings, pintles, and set them to pop at the proper pressure for under 100 bux. GREAT. I will take them there on monday to get er done.

For those who do not understand the pop pressures, it is the ignition (per say) timing of the diesel. They are set to open at the correct pressure at so many degrees BTDC. This is done with shimming of the springs. The greater the pressure, the more retarted the timing. To little pressure and ou can have white smoke from too early of an ignition and imcomplete burn (grey smoke from the video?). I only had four tested since it was obvious that I needed at least a rebuild of them. The three that we did not touch had **** poor spray patterns and kind of trickled out sometimes. Not to mention the pressures were all different. This was evident even with his makeshift guage. I should have results by next weekend. I also rolled out to KCK and picked up about 100' of sound deadner to kill some of the road noise in this thing. It is going to make a fine DD.

SWS

 

[riotwarrior]

I am Curious....Where is the Video?

 

[seawalkersee]

Post #7. There is a little pic of it with the elusive word "video" in it. Click on it and you can see it run.

SWS

 

[riotwarrior]

Post #7. There is a little pic of it with the elusive word "video" in it. Click on it and you can see it run.

SWS

I clicked I saw...kewl....just makes me want to do mine more..

Now u need my replacement fenders I see....got two replacements but u live to far to make it worth while sorry

Nice wheels too.....good luck with it