Start Issue???

HammerDown

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*Turned key to fire GP's got a good long burn (very cold here)
*Turned Key (till it wouldn't turn anymore) to 'START'...and I just hear a little 'click'
*Tried this a few times and got no Starter engagement.

So, I pop-open the hood and with Key in 'RUN' position and with a Screwdriver I cross/touch the two LARGE terminals on the passenger-side fenderwall mounted Relay (or is that called a Solenoid) and the Starter spins and the Engine starts.

Could the starter have been frozen...OR...is this a sign the Ignition Switch mounted low on the steering Column) is failing? I'll try to start it again after the engine is good and warm.
why do things have to act-up when it's 2 degrees outside???
 
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madpogue

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Automatic or manual transmission?

Next test - rather than jumping the two big terminals on the starter relay, jump a wire from the battery + to the SMALL terminal on the relay. TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL/PARK!!! If the starter cranks, relay is good. If just a click, or nothing, relay is bad.

And better to test it in the same conditions (cold), just to separate the variables.
 

Cubey

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If automatic, try in neutral. Maybe your nuetral safety switch died. I always have to start that way. It takes out your reverse lights too.
 

Macrobb

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If manual, you have a clutch safety switch which does the same thing. Also a jumper across the same wires that would have gone to the neutral safety switch on an auto truck
 

KZF250

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That switch did fail on me a while back but not at start up...would randomly die when driving.
 

madpogue

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If your truck doesn't start in neutral, it's a death trap. It would be extremely dangerous not to be able to restart a moving vehicle that has stalled while it's still moving.

If you heard a click when you turned the key to START, the ignition switch is _probably_ good. The relay is the most likely suspect. But again, you won't really know until it gets cold again, if it's a temperature-related problem.
 

foresterdj

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Was your ignition switch VERY hard to turn? I ask because I had a no start issue with my truck today. It had not been run since before Christmas and we have barely seen above zero until today. Ignition turned very hard, like I needed two hands to turn it hard. Glow plugs worked, but no starter engagement. Used tractor to pull it out into the balmy +22 degree air. Was trying to figure out how to get it drug around to my heated shop. Tried it again after a very minutes and it cranked right up. I was thinking ignition switch so stiff and cold it wasn't working. Switch turned easier this last time, maybe just because I had been trying off and on to turn it, maybe because it warmed up and loosened up?
 

Cubey

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It could be the actuator thing about to break. Although mine was more limp than hard to turn I guess. It did it off and on just before it broke.
 

HammerDown

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Was your ignition switch VERY hard to turn? I ask because I had a no start issue with my truck today. It had not been run since before Christmas and we have barely seen above zero until today. Ignition turned very hard, like I needed two hands to turn it hard. Glow plugs worked, but no starter engagement. Used tractor to pull it out into the balmy +22 degree air. Was trying to figure out how to get it drug around to my heated shop. Tried it again after a very minutes and it cranked right up. I was thinking ignition switch so stiff and cold it wasn't working. Switch turned easier this last time, maybe just because I had been trying off and on to turn it, maybe because it warmed up and loosened up?
Not really...our temps were below Zero but I loaded the Key and surrounding areas with WD40 and it helped quite a bit. And as mentioned prior it started fine the rest of the day.
 

HammerDown

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Gave the Truck about an hour on the Block Heater...turned the key and she fired right up.
Today's temps are NOT subfreezing -20, but 28 degrees.
In a few days warmer temps (close to 50) that's when I do the work.

***I will install a new Ignition Switch and here's why...over time I noticed I had to turn the Key further and further to get the Starter to Crank.
***about two/three years ago I loosened the Switch and moved it up the Column about 1/16th of an inch.
***that helped HOWEVER, when I turned the Key back to 'accessories' I had nothing, and over-time once again I was back to turning the Key further to engage Starter.

Doing the math over 30 years the Ignition Switch and Starter Relay must have over 50,000 thousand 'starts' on it!
Shortly after I bought my Truck NEW, Ford did the 'switch' recall and replaced it.

I have no issues also replacing the 'Relay'...the 3-post Motorcraft relay is no longer available from Ford, so I'm stuck with whatever Autozone/Advance Auto/Pep Boys carries/Napa
All your feedback has been helpful, thanks Ray
 
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HammerDown

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New Ignition switch in, manufacture is 'Standard'. I did not use the Auto Zone or Advance Auto switch, even though THEY have a lifetime warranty.
Now I see how that ****** works and that the included clip is to make sure it in installed in the 'Key Lock position' and it's not a retaining clip.
Anyhow, at least now my 'Accessories' work.
I can understand why the Key has a lot of resistance when turning towards the 'start' position...there's a significant compression spring in the Switch.
 

HammerDown

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For a moment, back to that Ignition switch...even trying to compress (in hand) the inner spring with a small screwdriver WOW it has a lot of resistance. No wonder that pot-metal actuator is breaks!
 

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