Standard or heavy clutch

[RLDSL]

I'm getting ready to do an engine swap on my'92 f350 dually. It's going to be getting a '94 turbo engine.
As far as a new clutch for the thing , I was wondering if I should use a stock replacement clutch or a heavy duty? I am mainly going to be using the thing for towing an 8000+ pound 5th wheel.
Would there be any long term benefit to a heavy duty clutch with a moderate load like that, or would my already shaky arthritic knee just wind up taking a beating and leave me cursing the day I put the thing in.

Thanks---------Robert

 

[Agnem]

A stock clutch is more than adaquate for pulling your 5th wheel. The best upgrade is to go from an 11" to a 12" but you won't find that in stock trim.

 

[RedTruck]

Can you get a 12" for a dual mass flywheel? I was under the understanding that you could only get the 12" for a solid flywheel.

I replaced a brand new 11" clutch in my rig after a few weeks of use. I was helping to get a buddies rig unstuck. I wasn't jerking it all...nice even heavy pull and it started slipping...bad! I replaced it with a new catco 12" clutch. It hasn't skipped a beat since.

Paul

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

Robert
from my experiance with these clutches, and Ive put quite a few in.
with the arhtritic knee, go with a luk replacement kit flywheel and all, also get a slave cylinder and clutch master at the same time maybe even a fork and put in double check the pedal bushings make sure they are good, make sure ya dont have any firewall cracks.
with all that good, the pedal pressure will be like driving a little 4 cyl car, no where near as heavy as what stock is.
as for holding force on the clutch, it will take more than you can put to it.
try to save a few$$ going with less , and you wont get the same feel.
Nick

 

[RLDSL]

A stock clutch is more than adaquate for pulling your 5th wheel. The best upgrade is to go from an 11" to a 12" but you won't find that in stock trim.

I'm hoping to not have to change out the flywheel. I guess i'l see what it looks like when I get in there. It hasn't acted poorly yet though. I just figure it makes sense to replace the clutch while it's out.

Looks like I'll stick with a stock clutch unless I find DMF crunchies in there.

--------Robert

 

[RLDSL]

Of course, I'm making the assumption that it still has a stock setup in there. I got the thing with about 250k hard miles on it. Who knows what's in there for a clutch setup right now. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Off to start pulling body metal off the front. Lets see, engine swap...5 minute job, right

-------Robert

 

[towcat]

Of course, I'm making the assumption that it still has a stock setup in there. I got the thing with about 250k hard miles on it. Who knows what's in there for a clutch setup right now. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Off to start pulling body metal off the front. Lets see, engine swap...5 minute job, right

-------Robert

robert-
i've gotten 3 years out of my 12" dmfw stocker. F450 grossing 15k to 21k. running 200-300mi/day. If pedal effort is an issue, pay attention to all the details. check the quill on the trans where the TOB slides on. check the clutch fork, hell...just replace it. lastly, rebuild the pedal bracket with new plastic bushings and lube the heck out of them with a dry lube. I have reconstructed knees and "pedal effort" is a major factor for me.
As far as engine swap turnaround time goes...two days for me
first day, start time around 11am and finishing around 11pm with "newused" motor set into the chassis. Following day, start time around 11am and finishing around 9pm taking truck out for a test drive.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

You can use a heavy duty clutch disk, just stay away from "heavy duty" pressure plates, which use higher spring pressure to clamp the disk tighter.