Well it would except for the part sticking through the middle.
Seeing as the nomenclature being used is ambiguos and vague at best please take another photo pointing to that which you are describing.
I have only torn down repacked and or rebuilt about a dozen D50s maybe 2x that of 60s and countless 35s and 44s so if you are in anyway thinking a particular socket will work sadly you are mistaken.
If I am correct the THING in the middle you are referrjng to is often known and referred to as the "STUB AXLE" and is always in there unless someone removes it. That axle is what drives 4wd.
The correct socket I provided a picture of clears that stub axle when the correct parts are in there.
This may be a situation where incorrect parts where used in an emergency we will never know for sure.
What we do know is; that a simple socket you are looking for likely doesnt exist for the wrongly applied parts therefore hammer and punch remove the incorrect parts locate the correct parts and use the correct tool to install the correct parts to the specidlfied torque.
Other than the nut retainkng hub and bearings on the spindle all else is appearing correct.
As I said depressing the outter tabbed ring inward to release the ratcheting locking mechanism is the way to remove that nut. It requires a special socket designed for a REAR axle where there is a portion of tube that slides into the spindle and the socket depresses the outter ring when engauged. Clearly that style of socket will not work here as the stub axle is in the way.
Boy you are in a pickle for sure....grab a Chilton or Haynes MANUAL showing and dezcribing what and how to do this.
Do not keep telling us how it has to be....seeing as some of us know how it is supposed to be when clearly it isnt.
We want to help you succed so stop fighting us and lizten
