nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Our old diesels will start and run just fine in those temps if you plug'em in for a couple of hours before.
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Don't you also need to heat the batteries and the oil in the pan? What blend of diesel do you run that won't gel at -33F (or colder)?
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I keep a trickle charger on the battery, and a 150W heater on the pan. I use 5W-40 oil. #1 diesel, with anti-gel, usually Power Service white bottle.
ISPKI
Welding/metallurgical engineer/Metalsmith
My Wife's family is from Houlton, right around the corner from Presque Isle. Snowmobiling in late january/early february up there is fantastic. We have hoofed it from Houlton all the way up to Fort Kent.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Houlton? That's practically downstate 
40 miles south of Presque Isle. Long trip to FK on snow machines though!
I've been to both ends of Rt. 1 too
40 miles south of Presque Isle. Long trip to FK on snow machines though!I've been to both ends of Rt. 1 too
You must be registered for see images attach
chickenpot
Registered User
Pulled out the steering gear to re seal the input shaft earlier this afternoon. It had been weeping for a few months and i had the gumption today. Went pretty smooth actually, I just left the high pressure line attached to the gear and pulled it down like that. Seals and snap rings went out and pretty nice as well. Figured while i had it out I would do the pitman shaft seal as well since it was in the kit. Pulled the pitman shaft and gave inside a nice solvent flush while it was open. The actual gears themselves looked pretty good.
That being said, I'm looking forward to the surprise of what is going to start leaking next. Leaks/seals I have fixed/replaced so far since the summer:
Driver side exhaust manifold gasket
Valley pan (had rust holes in it)
Water pump
Both valve covers
Lift pump mating surface
Oil cooler re seal
Rear diff
Return caps
Rebuilt sketchy/leaky OEM injectors (new nozzles + matched)
Thermostat housing
Had rubber return line from filter break from vibration, capped it off
Fuel sediment bowl drain replaced
Currently weeping:
Light load advance piston plunger on IP, gonna let this one ride for a while.
IP gear housing access bolt cover
What else is there new to start leaking. Im thinking:
Pass side exhaust manifold
Oil pan
Rear main
Front main/cover
Zf5 output shaft
Fuel heater (holding, but ready to delete)
Fuel filter vac switch
Other repairs maintenance in line
Rear drum service (shoes cylinders drums hardware AND parking brake cables)
Rear sway bar bushings
That being said, I'm looking forward to the surprise of what is going to start leaking next. Leaks/seals I have fixed/replaced so far since the summer:
Driver side exhaust manifold gasket
Valley pan (had rust holes in it)
Water pump
Both valve covers
Lift pump mating surface
Oil cooler re seal
Rear diff
Return caps
Rebuilt sketchy/leaky OEM injectors (new nozzles + matched)
Thermostat housing
Had rubber return line from filter break from vibration, capped it off
Fuel sediment bowl drain replaced
Currently weeping:
Light load advance piston plunger on IP, gonna let this one ride for a while.
IP gear housing access bolt cover
What else is there new to start leaking. Im thinking:
Pass side exhaust manifold
Oil pan
Rear main
Front main/cover
Zf5 output shaft
Fuel heater (holding, but ready to delete)
Fuel filter vac switch
Other repairs maintenance in line
Rear drum service (shoes cylinders drums hardware AND parking brake cables)
Rear sway bar bushings
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
@chickenpot it sounds like your projects go about the same as most of mine. I usually set out to fix something simple and end up rebuilding half the truck before I'm done.
James
James
hacked89
Full Access Member
The good - my IDI bronco is running and I pulled it out of the garage
The bad - I hear a valve train noise that is “off” it’s chuffing out of the exhaust aka exhaust valve guide or other. Going to pull off the driver side valve cover and take a look.
The bad - I hear a valve train noise that is “off” it’s chuffing out of the exhaust aka exhaust valve guide or other. Going to pull off the driver side valve cover and take a look.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
This isn`t my first Rodeo, started driving 9/66 when I got out of the Navy full time. High School doesn`t count.
any way, I have had various vehicles over the years, so know a little bit about working on them from one end to the other.
I started a thread about what I thought was a brake line that had rubbed hole in it or???
Got a lot of feed back (thanks) bought 25ft of the copper/nickel line and a small tool to do the flare`s.
Later noticed Fluid running down the edge of the inner plastic fender, The Brake MC was leaking between it and the Booster.
OH great! But this was a good time to upgrade to the newer Alum/Plastic reservoir MC used from 87 and on, and get rid of the rusty 86 MC. Picked up one from O`Really`s for an 89.
Had to make 2 new lines to the P Valve. Gravity bled them and all was good
Got through that learning curve.
Made a trip from NV to SD and back, brakes worked ok, but still had a leaky drip.
It was the "P" Valve at the rear where the rear Brake line connects. A little rubber plug was puking. Replaced it with a new one, but introduced air into the system
I have replaced brakes, MC, bled/flushed the systems many times. But this Ford with the proportional Valve has me stumped. yeah I read about the centering valve and using to tool to center it. Just got one off the internet. First one was plastic and would not catch the threads to screw in. Just got a metal one that threaded right in. Forget the plastic one`s.
So not sure if it is centered or not.
I have the Motive pressure Bleeder, but the cap if for my Mercedes Diesels.
Picked up a Motive cap that is for the later Ford trucks, but does not fit. GRRR
Motive is so simple to flush the lines.
Getting late in the day and 22 tonight and 30 tomorrow (Sat) and snow 1 - 2" and Sat night 1 - 3", what the weather guessers said, and it is Friday.
So Iam thinking to throw in the towel and have some shop get it working next week.
OK Iam done blabbing....
Goat
any way, I have had various vehicles over the years, so know a little bit about working on them from one end to the other.
I started a thread about what I thought was a brake line that had rubbed hole in it or???
Got a lot of feed back (thanks) bought 25ft of the copper/nickel line and a small tool to do the flare`s.
Later noticed Fluid running down the edge of the inner plastic fender, The Brake MC was leaking between it and the Booster.
OH great! But this was a good time to upgrade to the newer Alum/Plastic reservoir MC used from 87 and on, and get rid of the rusty 86 MC. Picked up one from O`Really`s for an 89.
Had to make 2 new lines to the P Valve. Gravity bled them and all was good
Got through that learning curve.
Made a trip from NV to SD and back, brakes worked ok, but still had a leaky drip.
It was the "P" Valve at the rear where the rear Brake line connects. A little rubber plug was puking. Replaced it with a new one, but introduced air into the system
I have replaced brakes, MC, bled/flushed the systems many times. But this Ford with the proportional Valve has me stumped. yeah I read about the centering valve and using to tool to center it. Just got one off the internet. First one was plastic and would not catch the threads to screw in. Just got a metal one that threaded right in. Forget the plastic one`s.
So not sure if it is centered or not.
I have the Motive pressure Bleeder, but the cap if for my Mercedes Diesels.
Picked up a Motive cap that is for the later Ford trucks, but does not fit. GRRR
Motive is so simple to flush the lines.
Getting late in the day and 22 tonight and 30 tomorrow (Sat) and snow 1 - 2" and Sat night 1 - 3", what the weather guessers said, and it is Friday.
So Iam thinking to throw in the towel and have some shop get it working next week.
OK Iam done blabbing....
Goat
I’M OFF TO GO GET ANOTHER IDI…
You must be registered for see images attach
1991 F-Superduty
7.3 IDI
5 speed (5th is out)
5.13 gears
12’ service bed
50,000 original miles
No rust
Zero blowby
Runs amazing
Much too heavy and long to fit on my trailer, so I just had a buddy come and I drove it. 60 miles back home with zero issues.
asmith
Full Access Member
I really like that truck. Looks like a perfect work truck, just needs a lumber rack, turbo, and 4x4 conversion. 
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I saw that listed on FB Marketplace and thought it looked nice. I would have been more interested if it wasn't a F Superduty.
