Laine D
Full Access Member
I vote alcoas. My absolute favorite
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
So I spent all yesterday morning in a junkyard trying out how to remove 32 security lug nuts that nobody has a socket for including the yard. It took 4 guys, a loader, and 3 hours. I couldn't believe anybody would put security lug nuts on every single lug! Anyhow, these are 12.50x35s on 17" rims. I wasn't expecting to find these in the yard. I paid $250 for all of it. Rear tires are brand spanking new, but I will get 2 new front tires because they were out of alignment on the truck they came off of.
I wanted the rims for the crew cab, but there's no way I am running 35s with 3.55s on the tow rig. This truck is also 3.55, but it's just my daily now, and I am not letting these tires go to waste. They look darn good on there too!
Rock
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I wanted the rims for the crew cab, but there's no way I am running 35s with 3.55s on the tow rig. This truck is also 3.55, but it's just my daily now, and I am not letting these tires go to waste. They look darn good on there too!
Rock
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I have to agree myself. For me personally, I don't want to try to experiment with different tire sizes. I feel that the 238/85r16s are just fine for me. I've had bigger tires on the Bronco. Not much bigger, but they were 285/75r16s. I feel that they were ok for that, but they were mostly for looks in my opinion. The exception will be on my Red Truck. I have 235/75r15s on there now because I couldn't stand the thought of the 215/75r15s that were on there from the factory. It needs two tires right now and after I do the IDI swap to it, it will be running 31x10.50r15s. That's the size that I had on it when I first started driving it (I stole them off of the Bronco after it's IDI swap). I think that they looked good on there, but I mostly want them for the lower RPM while driving down the road without overdrive.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
Yup, I didn't like the idea of fooling with the gearing on the crew cab. If it had 4.10s, it may be ok, but I like the gearing the way it is. Another factor was weight rating on the rims. I don't know what the rating is on these aluminum rims, but I am sure it's quite a bit less than the steel wheels, which is no good for the tow rig. It actually works out great, since the new 16.5s that were on the 6.9 will go on the crew cab since it needs tires. This way I only have to buy 2 tires instead of 4.
Rock
Rock
Reggie f250
Full Access Member
Locking lug nuts are easy to remove. Just hammer on an old impact socket on and spin them off. Done it many times. People lose the keys all the time. That's why they put them on all the lugs. They aren't hard to remove.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
There's a bit more to it. These were 7 point tapered nuts, recessed flush with the rim wall, and way over tightened, and stripped out from somebody else trying to beat sockets on them. Not easy at all. I threw all those crappy lug nuts out, and have a new set coming tomorrow morning.
BTW, you are welcome to the old lug nuts,lol
Rock
Reggie f250
Full Access Member
That makes it more difficult. I try to find a socket that fits tight on the tapered part. But if they are overtightened it's much harder. I also usually throw them out unless the customer wants them back.
Laine D
Full Access Member
I spent my evening polishing my wheels and pressure washing the frame. After Christmas I plan to remove the bed and paint the frame and clean up some of the wiring and what not. I did this when I was 16 but I want to do it better now. And now I have the time!
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MikeM.
Registered User
Oh, man, it looks way better with just the steelies. I like an honest truck.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
I agree, I like the steel wheels on the crew cab, that's why I put the aluminum rims on the single cab.
Rock
jrollf
Full Access Member
Installed a "Draw-Tite 20501 Electric Brake Controller Pulse Preventer" after discovering my new trailer brake controller (Tekonsa P3) applies the trailer brakes every time my hazard lights flash. Real eye opener when trying to pull out on a road with a steep grade with flashers to warn drivers I'm moving slow.
Will find out if it works later this week.
Will find out if it works later this week.
Mine does the same on my F250. If that doesn't do the trick you can put a diode inline, let me know and I can link you to the one I used on the 350.
jrollf
Full Access Member
Supposidly it is a big diode, so hopefully it works.
Another method that has worked for me, use an old "typical" lug nut placed on top of the locking nut and weld it inside the threaded area. The heat from welding also helps loosen overtightened and rusty nuts. If it's a nice aluminum or chrome wheel, you'll also want some type of welding shield to protect the wheel.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
That feels strange to me, like the controller is hooked up wrong. It should be taking the brake pedal light as the trigger, but the hazards are on a different circuit, aren't they? I know they share the same bulb...
Oh. Because they share the bulb without a diode it backfeeds the wire going to the brake pedal. It must on which side of the brake pedal switch it's hooked into. I only mention it because it "shouldn't" do that, for obvious reasons like you stated.
