So what did you do with your truck today?

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,323
Reaction score
11,040
Location
edmond, ks
I've run these bulbs before, but not since hitting a deer almost 3 years ago. That took out a headlight and bulb. I ordered another headlight, but not the super bright bulbs at the time.
 

RDieselKid84

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
99
Reaction score
45
Location
Mississippi
Hey get a set of H-4 bulb holders and then a set of H-4 bulbs that are 100 watt high and 45 watt low. The harness will handle it and you can see a mile. Just dim them when you see head lights coming because they want be able to see when your's are on high. I've been running them for sixteen years and you can see with them.
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
6,154
Location
Central NY
Another vehicle was coming toward me, so I dimmed the lights. All of a sudden, there was NO HEADLIGHTS and I was at highway speed after dark!

I had that happen to me once. Odd thing was the switch was still plugged in. I just beat on it a few times and it started working again. I promptly changed it out after that! Not a pleasant experience!
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,027
Reaction score
6,154
Location
Central NY
When I was at Thewespaul's shop I picked up a truck bed toolbox. My neighbor had been trying to convince me to give him mine (it was off the truck over winter) so I figured why not grab another. It was a good brand and mine is definitely worse for wear.

The new box was... well used. The hinge was a little bit loose, didn't have any keys, and needs a new latch, even the good latch was a little stiff. I got it home and started looking it over. Seems someone had it stick shut so they jimmied the latch to get it open and technically broke it a little bit so it was still usable.

The latch tie bar was unhooked and just laying there. Luckily a little google located the pins/bushings needed to fix that, and also turned up the correct keys! The keys were $10/each or.... $10 for the lock and two keys? :dunno You can guess which one I bought lol!

You must be registered for see images attach


Here's the pin/bushing thing that holds the latch tie bar in. Like $1.20 each at etrailer.com!

After getting that together and lubricating everything good it still wouldn't latch itself. It really needs a new passenger side latch because it's very loose. The driver's side however was very stiff even after lubricating it. I pried on the driver's side one and loosened it a little bit. It was better but still wouldn't latch itself.

Redneck enginuity to the rescue! I had an old brake spring in my toolbox, turned out to be PERFECT!

You must be registered for see images attach


All I had to do was drill the hole in that aluminum for the other end. Now it latches just fine and opens from either side!

I drilled out the rivets in the hinge and replaced them. I also added a few extra. Now everything works like it should! I'm happy, and more importantly I can actually lock my toolbox up now! Now to see if my cheapskate neighbor really wants that toolbox or just a freebie lol!
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
Well.... Somehow, it's working. How long, though... we'll see.
After my FX15 compressor(original R12 setup) on my '93 decided to give up it's seals, and some experimentation, I've got something working!
I've got a FS10 compressor from the JY, replaced the orifice tube with one *not* covered in teflon bits(surprisingly no oily "black death").
And, because I wasn't using R134A, I needed a different lube... ATF time! (I tried some actual AC mineral oil once on another FX15 setup, but it was way too thick and didn't lube the compressor).

It's been working nicely for a week now, so... I'm happy not to have to spend several hundred doing a proper replacement and upgrade!
 

RDieselKid84

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
99
Reaction score
45
Location
Mississippi
Fixed the drivers side window motor it was in a bind. Found out what was wrong with the door lock motor, it had a terminal broke off. Had a motor off a van, had to change the rod to the lock it was to short on the van motor. Had to make a cover for it, a nigle glove did the trick. In stalled a new window run gasket no more wind noise. After two weeks it's nice to have them back working.
 

RDieselKid84

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
99
Reaction score
45
Location
Mississippi
Love me some out of the box, DIY!
If it wasn't for DIY it would have been gone a long time ago. But after 33 years I quest I'LL keep it. I like driving it better than the 16 F150 . As soon as I get a chance the turbo is next, I half to get a oil line from Russ and I will have all the prices for the install. I found my instructions from ATS for the install, I called them in 2003 right after I bought it from JY in whictal falls TX, when I was at Shepard AFB.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
Just thought I'd add another mod I did last night - I added an ebay "line lock" to the front brakes.
It's effectively a 1-way check valve with a solenoid; engage the solenoid and fluid only flows into the brakes, not from them.
So you power it up, press the brake pedal and it 'locks' the brakes on until you switch it off.

My use case? E-brake is broken, and I need some way of getting out and opening gates, hooking trailers etc. without having to shut the truck off for a few seconds each time.
I've tested it, and it seems to work nicely. It took several adapters to make it work, though(solenoid comes with 1/8 NPT connections).
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Just thought I'd add another mod I did last night - I added an ebay "line lock" to the front brakes.
It's effectively a 1-way check valve with a solenoid; engage the solenoid and fluid only flows into the brakes, not from them.
So you power it up, press the brake pedal and it 'locks' the brakes on until you switch it off.

My use case? E-brake is broken, and I need some way of getting out and opening gates, hooking trailers etc. without having to shut the truck off for a few seconds each time.
I've tested it, and it seems to work nicely. It took several adapters to make it work, though(solenoid comes with 1/8 NPT connections).
I don’t know about where you are but I’m pretty sure in some states line locks in street cars are illegal. If you have to pass state inspection it could be an issue. Personally I’ve considered it myself for as bad as the parking brakes are in these things.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
One of these days I'd love to find cables that actually /work/(and don't sieze up) and /fit/, then my E-brake might actually work again. That's been my problem from Day 1 with Big Red - Swapped out a cable for a parts store cable(original was siezed) and... it won't stay in place on the wheel side. And now I think it's siezed again.
All the parts are there, it just won't work.
In the mean time, well, practicality is important. And I'm pretty happy to live somewhere without any inspections, considering the rust holes in the cab, bed etc. Mostly mechanically sound, though.
 
Top