DavidS
Registered User
You give me hope... 
Sloooow crank, tried everything!
- Thread starter DavidS
- Start date
Joseph Davis
Full Access Member
Usually I just flood the cylinder with WD 40. I started many of car same day or within a couple of hours. As long as it had good fuel in system (on Cars only not diesel) and good spark they fired right up. And if they Didn't I left them alone and continued to look for something else? Thanks for the good info on ATF
DavidS
Registered User
Sorry for the lapse in activity guys....getting married and stuff takes up a lot of time!
Recap since last time...tried the suggestion of soaking the cylinders with MMO/ATF cocktail and waiting. This produced a spectacular lack of results. So due to some prodding from the new Mrs to do something with it or get it out of the yard I had it towed up to the shop to see what they could find. After a delay while they tried to just find another motor and do a quick swap (we had one lined up, kept stalling on delivery, finally admitted he sold it to someone else, ugh) we just decided to yank it and send to the machine shop. As of this morning I know now that the bottom end was the culprit. Spun bearings. Hot enough to weld material to block. They said there was nothing they could do and would I like to find another block to build. I've not messed with anything in this condition before, is that a fair statement? He said the heads look fine, he has them cleaned up and ready to use.
Briefly thought about washing my hands of it at this point but decided to keep going. So I'm beating the bushes for a K-vin block if anyone has any leads. I found one on eBay but the shipping is a little steep. I'm in Norfolk, VA and would drive a few hours to pick something up to avoid shipping charges if anything is available. Let me know.
Thanks!
Recap since last time...tried the suggestion of soaking the cylinders with MMO/ATF cocktail and waiting. This produced a spectacular lack of results. So due to some prodding from the new Mrs to do something with it or get it out of the yard I had it towed up to the shop to see what they could find. After a delay while they tried to just find another motor and do a quick swap (we had one lined up, kept stalling on delivery, finally admitted he sold it to someone else, ugh) we just decided to yank it and send to the machine shop. As of this morning I know now that the bottom end was the culprit. Spun bearings. Hot enough to weld material to block. They said there was nothing they could do and would I like to find another block to build. I've not messed with anything in this condition before, is that a fair statement? He said the heads look fine, he has them cleaned up and ready to use.
Briefly thought about washing my hands of it at this point but decided to keep going. So I'm beating the bushes for a K-vin block if anyone has any leads. I found one on eBay but the shipping is a little steep. I'm in Norfolk, VA and would drive a few hours to pick something up to avoid shipping charges if anything is available. Let me know.
Thanks!
I’ve got four running k-vin blocks, but you gotta come to me in Texas lol
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Try a junk yard. Most people want an entire engine, you might get lucky looking for a short block. Although a turbo block is rare, a regular 7.3 with your turbo rods, pistons, and a good crank should be just fine. Unless you plan on doing truck pulls or trailering a sherman tank everywhere.
DavidS
Registered User
Road trip to Texas!! Thanks Thewespaul, but yeah that's far.
Is using an NA block a reasonable option? I had definitely thought about that. I won't be hammering on this truck very much, the most it'll tow is a 10k boat on occasion. I'll definitely be calling some junkyards this weekend. Are the castings for the turbo and NA engines actually different?
Is using an NA block a reasonable option? I had definitely thought about that. I won't be hammering on this truck very much, the most it'll tow is a 10k boat on occasion. I'll definitely be calling some junkyards this weekend. Are the castings for the turbo and NA engines actually different?
There are many guys out there running turbos on otherwise stock na engines. I bolted an ats set up on a 220,000 Mile good running na engine along with a baby moose ip and a 3in exhaust. Keeping the boost around 10-12 psi and not exceeding 1000 degrees EGT I proceeded to pull a 10 K trailer from Florida to New York and back several times with absolutely no issues. As someone else said, unless you're doing pulls or towing ridiculous you'll be fine.
DavidS
Registered User
Yeah I'm aware of the turbo opportunities for the na 7.3s (I listed after a Banks setup for my 88 for a while) my question was more will my components from a turbo block swap over to a NA block without issues.
I believe the blocks are identical but the rotating mass is different. I would think as long as you swap all of them including the balancer and flywheel/flex plate you should be ok. The na is internally balanced and turbo externally so these two parts are balanced different. Wes or mel could probably give you a definite answer.
I could be wrong, but doesn’t the idit have oil squirters?
All 6.9 and 7.3 IDI’s have oil squirters.
Thanks!
DavidS
Registered User
Going to pick up new block/crank today, found one locally. I'll post some pic later.
DavidS
Registered User
So after a few false starts on the replacement block, I ended up with a non turbo block. The crank in it and my turbo crank were visibly balanced differently, so my turbo crank went to a crank shop where it was checked over and then the mains were cut down to remove the damage from the spun bearings. Ordered some thicker bearings and then it was smooth sailing from there. I'm ashamed of how little I know about what parts the shop put in or what rebuild kit they ordered. I know the pistons are Mahle and he painted it grey but that's about it.
I did the send the exhaust elbow on the turbo off to R&D IDI performance to get the 3" outlet modification done and that looks sweet. Came back with the two piece 3" down pipe as well.
So now comes a question about injectors, as in what do I put in before the engine goes back in the truck. The ones that were in it are Delphi BBs. THey don't look bad, but I know it's not so much what they look like on the outside that matters. My local injection shop wants $50 per injector to clean and test them which seems not cost effective, but a new set is out of reach at the moment.
Pensacola Diesel has a rebuilt set for $189 but when I called them they couldn't give me any information about what brand they were, only that the body is stamped "China", no part number or anything. Seemed sketch.
So what do you guys think? Just put the Delphi BBs back in for now (and do a seafoam treatment) until some Moose Buddys are a possibility? Or buy the brand X rebuilt ones on the basis that newer potential junk is still better than worn out brand name?
Thanks as always for the input!
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I did the send the exhaust elbow on the turbo off to R&D IDI performance to get the 3" outlet modification done and that looks sweet. Came back with the two piece 3" down pipe as well.
So now comes a question about injectors, as in what do I put in before the engine goes back in the truck. The ones that were in it are Delphi BBs. THey don't look bad, but I know it's not so much what they look like on the outside that matters. My local injection shop wants $50 per injector to clean and test them which seems not cost effective, but a new set is out of reach at the moment.
Pensacola Diesel has a rebuilt set for $189 but when I called them they couldn't give me any information about what brand they were, only that the body is stamped "China", no part number or anything. Seemed sketch.
So what do you guys think? Just put the Delphi BBs back in for now (and do a seafoam treatment) until some Moose Buddys are a possibility? Or buy the brand X rebuilt ones on the basis that newer potential junk is still better than worn out brand name?
Thanks as always for the input!
My opinion, if you are trying to watch expenses, if the truck was running well before the teardown, put the BB's you have back in. If you want them checked, Wes @Thewespaul, Mel or Russ @typ4 might be able to at a more affordable price. $400 for clean and pop test is most of the way to a new set of injectors.
Take a look in the Hall of Shame:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/the-oilburners-hall-of-shame.19805/
I know some of the entries are old, but have read the places that do still exist in here, are still just a bad.
Save you pennies, get a set of Buddies, or a set of Pop Tested and matched injectors from Wes, Russ, or Justin (R&D). Honestly a good pop matched set of injectors is almost more important than where they come from..... to a point. If you buy a set of 8 from Amazon, you will get 8 injectors just as they came off the line. But, get a set (could even be the same brand that you got from Amazon) from Wes, Mel, Russ or Justin, that are pulled out of the box, put on a pop tester, and shimmed to pop as close as possible (I think they go for ~50 or ~100 psi range) will run smoother, and give the most power. With matched injectors, the timing is closer to where it should be, and the engine isn't "fighting" itself while it is running.
Take a look in the Hall of Shame:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/the-oilburners-hall-of-shame.19805/
I know some of the entries are old, but have read the places that do still exist in here, are still just a bad.
Save you pennies, get a set of Buddies, or a set of Pop Tested and matched injectors from Wes, Russ, or Justin (R&D). Honestly a good pop matched set of injectors is almost more important than where they come from..... to a point. If you buy a set of 8 from Amazon, you will get 8 injectors just as they came off the line. But, get a set (could even be the same brand that you got from Amazon) from Wes, Mel, Russ or Justin, that are pulled out of the box, put on a pop tester, and shimmed to pop as close as possible (I think they go for ~50 or ~100 psi range) will run smoother, and give the most power. With matched injectors, the timing is closer to where it should be, and the engine isn't "fighting" itself while it is running.
