sleeper cabs....

tonkadoctor

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So If I bring my truck to you how much will it cost to set that thing on there?:sly

I'll load it in your bed for free.;Sweet


Frame stretch, paint and installation would run you about $3-4k + the price of the sleeper.

A roughly 57" frame stretch for a sleeper like this on a pickup runs right about $1500 - $2k alone.
 

h2odrx

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I'll load it in your bed for free.;Sweet


Frame stretch, paint and installation would run you about $3-4k + the price of the sleeper.

A roughly 57" frame stretch for a sleeper like this on a pickup runs right about $1500 - $2k alone.
If you load it for free what will it cost me?
 

tonkadoctor

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If you load it for free what will it cost me?

$700 for the sleeper and I have a new accordion gasket for it. Price is firm.

Right now I ain't messing with trying to sell it but once the shop is done I have a bunch of stuff I've had laying around that I don't have a use for anymore going up for sale and will get pics then.
 

RLDSL

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How about a 54" Roadmaster conversion Only $9695 for the base model installed.

I have one sitting behind the shop right now that came off an OBS Ford with the optional sofa bed and side windows I scored off Ebay for $700. IIRC she's got the seat belts too.

Wow, that thing is beautiful and just what I want :love:. But Naturally, everytime I save up some money for me, something pops up. Looks like I'm going to be spending a fortune on fuel to go move a relative halfway across the country.What can I say, it's family.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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who has one? i know mel has the full one, but mainly i am asking about the one that doesnt go below the bed rails. looking for good pics of them inside and out. buddy of mine has one he will sell me cheap.....thinking about it...


I have one of the "cowboy" style sleepers mounted on a 1978 K-20 Chevy that has been on there for at least 25-years.

Way back then, there were at least two separate factories in my area that were making them.

They first started out making the big fiberglass satellite dishes and branched out into various other fiberglass products once they learned the process.

These companies made everything from shower-stalls to dog-houses; alas, ragweeds have been growing through the cracks in the long unused parking-lots and the glass in the windows knocked out by rock-throwing kids for several years now.


As for the "boot" that connects the sleeper to the cab, these "cowboy" sleepers use a simple spring-clip-edged accordian material that is sold by the foot, with one edge clipping over the pinched window lip and the other clipping onto the opening in the sleeper --- WHICH MUST be an exact match to the opening in the truck, if it isn't an exact match, then it must be made so for the seal to work.


These accordian seals ARE NOT what are used on big-truck sleepers.

I have two genuine big-truck sleeper conversions, also; and, the boot used on them is a much more involved system, requiring several over-lapping components and about ten-million sheet-metal screws.


Many that have sealing issues with the "cowboy" sleeper accordian boots omit one very important step in the installation --- a retainer flange that firmly holds the edge of the accordian onto the lip; not one in ten installations has this flange.

Two of these flanges are required, one inside the truck and the other inside the sleeper.

Sheet-metal screws about five-inches apart fasten this flange around the perimeter of the accordian, such that it cannot slip loose from either edge.

As this accordian is cut from a long roll, there will naturally be two "ends" that must butt together; make this butt connection at bottom-center.

Also, once the back glass is removed from the cab, the bottom corners of the opening make a shrper than 90* angle which does not lend itself toward good boot sealing, as the accordian material does not bend so sharp, thus it will either pull loose from these corners or tear.

To prevent this situation, radiused fillers should be fabricated that eliminate these sharp corners on both the truck and the sleeper.

On a good installation, heavily padded upholstery will cover the boot and protect it from the wear and tear of crawling back and forth from cab to sleeper.


To complement the accordian and make it last a long time, it is good to also install one of those foam-rubber seals between the surface of truck and sleeper like used to be so popular between the sliding back glass and slide-in campers. ;Sweet
 

Hoss6.9

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Mine - On my show truck was custom built for me back in 1992. It does go down to the cab floor though. It was made it Elkhart Indiana. The truck has never seen winter but, has seen it's fair share of rain though. Never had any leaks to speak of. I can get the name of the company for you and I am sure that they still have the seals. They still make truck caps and sleeper cabs as far as I know yet today....
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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could you get a pic of this retaining flange you need to install.


The flange is simply a strip of metal that is shaped very-much like "J"-channel such that is used in house siding and soffit installations.

It has a shallow lip that goes over the edge of the sleeper-boot and a longer lip that gets screwed to the perimeter.

If fact, lacking the proper retainer, "J"-channel would make an excellent substitute.

One must carve little "V" notches out of the lips to bend around inside corners. :)
 

h2odrx

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$700 for the sleeper and I have a new accordion gasket for it. Price is firm.

Right now I ain't messing with trying to sell it but once the shop is done I have a bunch of stuff I've had laying around that I don't have a use for anymore going up for sale and will get pics then.

cool! do you think it would look ok by just making the bed shorter?:dunno
 
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